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A driver would save my hands if I had to do mounts all day but once year not much point IMO
if you facked op a screw hole use epoxy & filler material, run the screw in till its about to spin, leave it a couple days and you should be able to crank it down hard
I seem to mount 5-10 pair a year between myself, Owen, and assorted friends
Not sure I appreciate what’s been implied here…Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
Uh, hi there?Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
Alright, I feel like I’m crazy. I’m most likely going to add adjustment plates to some bd helio 110(atk sl world cup) since I just got boots that are a few mm bigger. Atk recommends using 11mm screws to mount either race heel pieces or adjustment plates. Thing is the adjustment plates are 2mm thicker. Would I be at risk if I lose 2mm of screw penetration (hehe)? Would I be better off ordering longer screws, I would guess 13mm. Attachment 458292Attachment 458293Attachment 458294
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Try dropping the screws in the adjustment plates and measuring the protrusion, no less than 7.5mm is what you want, probably no more than 9mm depending on the ski.
Are the countersinks deeper on the plates? Measure screw protrusion rather than plate thickness for a fairer comparison. Should be 7-9mm.
Totally missed that the countersink starts about 3mm deep so the screw head doesn’t sit flush. I guess I should just follow the directions. Thanks all.Quote:
Originally Posted by bfree
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Attachment 464747
Send it or helicoil it then send it? Back is clean. Ski is a thick Kartel 108 I used GFLEX epoxy and plastic plugs for the holes. These are my rock skis, so not worried about mounting another time.
I would send it all the way, but then again I am a smaller dude with wimpy legs.Quote:
Originally Posted by AZskibum
ON3Ps binding area has a ton of retention though, so I would not worry.
That's too close to plastic, epoxied in or not, for my personal tastes. I'd pull those plugs, use bamboo/dowel/whatever wood fill w/epoxy then send it. It's Juiy so I'm guessing you've got time to spare to do it right.
eh, I wrote out something similar in that I would've used bamboo plugs too, but deleted it before posting. My bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by ASmileyFace
While the current solution is probably good enough, using wood+epoxy is better.
I don't think those plugs are coming out pre-mount with the amount of GFLEX holding them in. I'd have to drill the whole plug out I think?
Was going to take them to mammoth this weekend, but can use others if needed.
EDIT: Ordered skewers just in case. Will being buzzed help soften injuries in the even of a pull out?
Top holes are fine, but I'd drill out the bottom plugs (small drill bit in center of plug, than EZ-Out to twist out plug) re-tap the holes, epoxy in #12AB aluminum screws, then cut off protruding screws with hacksaw and grind flat. (Don't let screws get hot when grinding.)
Then bomber.
Yer gonna wanna be full drunk for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by AZskibum
I like the screw method just mentioned btw.
Thanks for that tip, I was able to get the whole plug out. There was a lot less epoxy in there than I though, the nylon inserts are soft AF.
Think I'm going to go with a happy middle ground and use an epoxied skewer. Don't have the gear to grind off the screw unfortunately.
I am sorry if this is overly obvious, but the easy way to pull plastic plugs out is to just screw a woodscrew or something similar thread wise into the plug part of the way and then use a hammer to lever it out. There is no need to drill it out. If you pull out the screw, just go slightly deeper and try again.
The plastic plug is not very secured in there - the epoxy/glue/whatever does not seem to penetrate the plastic to any meaningful degree. Wood plugs on the other hand absorbes more of the binding agent and thus hardens while also seeming to bond better with the ski. Their retention values is still nothing like the ski's, but way better than plastic plugs (which is nil).
That's great info, thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by kid-kapow
I usually like to move ever thing to get some fresh ski to drill but if you got yer heart set on that same spot i like that aluminium screw idea altho i have never tried it
Attachment 465008
I decided to send it after getting the dowels in and letting the epoxy cure. Screws had a lot of bite, no spinning. The other ski has more overlap, so I'm going to put helicoils in that. I don't think the aluminum screws would work since the threads would cross over into each other.
Epoxy dowels will likely work fine. I have a Bonafide with two screws overlapped dowel mount that has held up for years.Quote:
Originally Posted by AZskibum
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Bonafide has a sheet of Titanal right under the topsheet . . . Kartel 108 not so much.Quote:
Originally Posted by skinipenem
That seems like a very important detail to know detail that I did not know. Thank you :)Quote:
Originally Posted by gregL
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I'm not sold on the aluminum screw method, but that is the point, you drill and then tap the hole including the portion of the aluminum screw that is now part of the hole circumference.Quote:
Originally Posted by AZskibum
Ah. got you. That makes sense. Wondering if I need to pull these and start over or what. Everything seems "secure". I'm not a super heavy guy, and I don't huck big stuff, or medium stuff. Wondering if I pull and Heli coil all holes? I have a pair of wildcats that are practically brand new that are going to run into the same issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by waveshello
I’m looking to re mount a pair of skis, and have hit a bit of a snag. The plastic plugs I ordered were too big to fit, so I went down and bought some bamboo skewers since that seems to be recommended around here. Problem is the skewers seem a little small to me. About 1mm of slop, the store had bigger ones, but they looked too big. I’m guessing the epoxy filling the gap of about .5mm the whole way round should be fine. Either that or go get the bigger ones. Put them in a drill and sand them ghetto lathe style to fit. What would the mags do?
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Is there overlap with the new holes? If there is, I’d go for a tight fit with the plugs or bigger skewers, make ‘em fit however you can (get a bigger hammer)…or find something with a tight fit (golf tees?). If there’s no overlap and the new ones are about a cm or more away I’d go with the small skewers and epoxy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shred Baron
Thanks for the info. No overlap thankfully. I would feel really strange using a hammer bigger than my 2lb dead low on a 1000 gram ski.
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On the bamboo skewer point - the manufacturing tolerances on those aren’t terribly tight, so if you try a few different ones usually you’ll get one that fits perfectly for the holes you need to fill. If you can’t, I have never had an issue using one that’s a little small; as you say, the epoxy fills the void just fine.
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Epoxy putty is your friend for filling holesQuote:
Originally Posted by Shred Baron
Putty is hard to get in there. But it works to seal a hole.Quote:
Originally Posted by tuco
I don’t get the skewer is better idea.
Skewers and golf tees (with epoxy) are good alternatives to plastic plugs when holes are close.
But. If you fill an entire hole with slow cure epoxy, that seems pretty strong to me. The hard part is getting it to flow and not having an air pocket.
Heat gun and toothpick or paper clip poking helps.
It's not that hard to fill the hole w/ putty
Yeah. Mash it in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by tuco
But my thought was more about a more liquid epoxy soaking into the wood core. Esp if holes are close.
I’ll keep this in mind. I wound up at the store and bought the thicker skewers and drill sanded them to a fairly tight fit. I’ve got like two more remounts planned, some one that may require overlapping holes.Quote:
Originally Posted by tuco
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Well not quite that I fucked up, but did a bit of a hack job. I’m not sure what the shop used on the screws on some skis I’m remounting, but I broke not 1 but 2 t20 bits trying to pull the screw. Which resulted in a stripped head. Started drilling, fucked up a couple bits trying to drill too fast. Got an easy out to wedge in, then snap. Broke the screw off right at the top of the ski. Started drilling again, but the bit wandered, soAttachment 468986 I only drilled half the screw, and also made a huge hole in my ski. Managed to pull the remainder of the screw. Luckily managed to get two dowels in with epoxy, and move the mount back 5mm from the line so it’s not quite sharing the hole. not quite finished, but boy has it been a struggle.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
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nice work
At least you are persistent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shred Baron
You can use 2 part epoxy and collodial silica to thicken it into a peanut butter paste. Then you can either jam that shit in until it overflows and poke it down or get some epoxy syringes off amazon.
I guess I'm shitty at math and/or spatial visualization, but this conundrum seems to be causing me more anguish than it should.
I have a pair of old blizzard peacemakers with pivots which need a remount due to a smaller BSL. The heels have been fixed for spinners so I'd really prefer not to pull them -- plus the original mount was at +1.5 for a 325ish(?) BSL, so moving the toe back should put me closer to recommended. I've been skiing them with 320 bsl with the heel basically maxed out in the forward position, and now need mount for a 315 bsl. Is there any way I can test how far back I need to move the toepiece to put me in the middle of the heel adjustment range (since i don't remember the exact BSL for which it was originally mounted)?
Or just move it between 1 and 1.5 cm back and call it good?
Print out the paper templates, space them for the proper new BSL and measure from one of the rear screws to one of the front screws, then use that dimension to place the template on the ski?Quote:
Originally Posted by NWFlow