Corn dogs and queso?? I feel that could be amazingQuote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3
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Corn dogs and queso?? I feel that could be amazingQuote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
I looked up the MRP FulFill as I wasn’t familiar with it. It says it’s compatible with 2017 forks and older, since newer forks with the transfer dimple would just equalize at topout. But your idea of spacing the negative spring such that the air piston head never reaches the equalization dimple then using the Fullfill to set negative pressure is an interesting one.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
Do you know if there is a similar product to the FulFill that works on Rockshox forks? It would be neat to try something like that on my Zeb, which rides like it has a bunch of preload at topout.
I felt the same. That feeling, it turns out, is incorrect.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
Like, how incorrect? It didn’t taste good or it destroyed your insides??Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
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It's just horrible for your drivetrain. Corndogs are better for tubeless inserts than chain lube.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
Remember those hot dogs with the cheese filling? Just make those into corn dogs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
The premise of this thread is that everyone's an expert in something. I am an expert in corn dogs.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
You, my friend, are in for a treat. Check out any Maverick or Flying J truck stop and you will find Jalapeno Cheese Corn Dogs.
Remember them!?!? I think I ate one last week.... more smoky and less hotdog ( whitetrash fancy). But shit those into a corn dog would be solidQuote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
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Remember them? Why would I ever eat anything else? I only buy cheese infused health missiles.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
I’ve been doing my Zwift rides on my modded smart hot dog rollersQuote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
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What makes a chain feel "rough" if it's not dirty and is shifting fine? I have a new (less than 50 miles) ride with a GRX derailleur. It felt great right off the bat. Now it is beginning to feel like the chain is not moving smoothly. In other words, it feels almost like the chain is sticky or catching on itself, but it is well oiled (not waxed or queso'd) and it moves smoothly with no load, and it appears to be in the right spot on each cog.
I tried adjusting the tension and it sort of helps in that particular gear but then it feels rough in a different gear. I I am almost positive it is not the bottom bracket because it does not happen in every gear all the time.
Sounds like a pia to solve. Did you try moving each link to see if one or more is sticky?Quote:
Originally Posted by RootSkier
No, that's a good option. I will try it. But the thing is that it feels totally fine sometimes...in some gears.
Just the chain is new, or is the entire drivetrain new?
If new chain and used drivetrain -- a new chain "wears in" to an old drivetrain, and is often noisier initially.
If new chain and used, potentially damaged drivetrain -- watch very closely as you spin the chain backwards and forwards, looking for the chain hanging up on a bent tooth or burr on a chainring or cog. File smooth or bend straight anything damaged, if possible. Check every cog.
It's all new.
Also, I really like this thread. Thanks for entertaining my jong/moron mechanic questions.
A couple guesses:Quote:
Originally Posted by RootSkier
1) If your chainline isn't great, the chain can be a little chunky in the top two cogs (that have a narrow wide profile). Put the chain in the middle cog and sight down it from the rear to see if it's more or less straight coming off the chainring.
2) Even if your chainline is fine, sometimes I find that the top two cogs are a little crunchy when new. This generally goes away after a couple rides after some natural de-burring occurs.
3) On many of the 12 speed Sram cassettes, I find there is a tooth conflict when the chain is on the 9th cog - wide links on the chain will contact a couple of the teeth on the 8th cog. This will make the chain skip a little bit. In my experience, this only happens on that one cog. You can solve this by using a punch to slightly bend the offending teeth on the 8th cog. This is all based on my experience with GX and X01 cassettes - it might not be a problem or occur in a different gear combo on a GRX cassette.
4) a sticky derailleur pulley can hang up and cause the chain the skip over the teeth on the pulley, which in turn means that the narrow wide teeth of the pulley don't line up with the chain. This feels very rumble-y, and isn't always immediately obvious.
Echo that this thread is great, we could use one in Tech Talk.
Best budget-ish chamois liner in today’s market?
Bending teeth :eek:? Wouldn't a file work better/safer? I have had something similar with chain links rubbing very slightly on the the second smallest cog of all 10 speed cassettes on my current bike when the chain is on the smallest cog (two XTR, one SRAM 1099), even after rejigging my chainline slightly. I thought about filing them but I never notice it on the road/trail and only really when lubing my chain so i doesn't bother me enough to actually do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
On the GX / X01 Eagle, I think it works better to bend them slightly. It doesn't take much of a tweak at all - if you're looking at it and see the conflict, it makes more sense. I just used a punch centered on the tooth and a couple quick taps. Super easy and quick. A file is harder to accurately fit down in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by LC
I use Zoic liners. Their cheap ones (rated 2 hrs) are actually pretty good, I used to use them for full day rides. I have the green and grey ones now, whichever they are rated for. They have online sales fairly often.Quote:
Originally Posted by Self Jupiter
Any chance you could post a photo highlighting the tooth you tweak? I remember on my last X01 it was always a little rough in one gear in that general area, no matter how much myself and the local mechanics tweaked things. I vaguely recall at one point I noticed one tooth seemed tighter to the next gear, and gently bent it outward with a flathead.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
It's tough to get a good picture of it, but if you backpedal very slowly, you can see the conflict. I actually stated it incorrectly above - the conflict is when the chain is on the 8th cog, and it touches teeth on the 9th cog. The teeth are staggered a bit to help with shifting, and there's 1 or 2 teeth on the 9th cog that sit more inboard and that interfere with the outer plates of the chain when it's on the 8th cog. Tweaking the tooth outward (away from the 8th cog) fixed the issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
Some more discussion of it here with some mediocre pictures.
Probably a stupid question but if I’m using post mount brakes on a post mount fork/frame,and just want to space for a 180 rotor, does it matter if the spacer mfr is the same as the brake mfr?Eg Hope calipers and rotors, shimano spacer?
Oh yeah, that really looks what I remember. I always wondered how the fuck I managed to bend 1 tooth on one gear in that region (I almost never am in that gear). If it crops up again this time, I won't hesitate to bust out the screwdriver/punch.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
For the most part no, but you'll occasionally run into incompatible versions due to the caliper running into the adapter. Mostly an issue with really bulky 4 piston brake calipers.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker