Yes..All Pivots have same mount pattern.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyg82
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Yes..All Pivots have same mount pattern.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyg82
Not sure what thread.
I had my boy plastic print a fancy center finder I saw here.. He said it was off 1mm
I called BS.
Laid out a new mount and holy shit the kid was right.
I’m going back to my carpenter speed square. It works better
Typically, we mount our own skis as we're fanatics and wouldn't want to risk the chance of a shop rat (I was one once) screwing up our boards. Secondarily, I'm assuming it's also because we might be cheap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Duffman
For the kid's binders, why not just have a shop do it?
For the amount of time I spent on mounting my bindings yesterday, it definitely wasn't cost effective. (but oh so satisfying).
For kids skis you'll need a 7mm bit (or be very careful with a 9mm bit) to avoid drilling through the ski.
you can check the accuracy of any fancy DL by holding up the actual binding against the actual templateQuote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
actually
He's talking about a center finder, not a template.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
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Yeah. I’m out four bucks of filament. And $1.80 in screws. It looks cool. But a fricking speed square is more accurate. Thats just wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
but look at all the time you saved !Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
http://www.slidewright.com/Bindings/centerline-tool-2-handles.jpg[/IMG]
https://tgr.scdn2.secure.raxcdn.com/...nter-tool3.jpg
http://www.slidewright.com/Bindings/centerline-tool-2-handles.jpg[/IMG]
https://tgr.scdn2.secure.raxcdn.com/...nter-tool3.jpg[/QUOTE]
Too complicated.
My standard is a speed square. Make marks @ 2
IE:Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
Attachment 441189
Those Keepers are beasts and a total blast in deep snow to packed powder.
I use a speed square too, different method though. Probably more accurate and just as easy:
I put something (small can of paint usually) on the ski, slide the square back against the can, and make a mark along the diagonal part of the square that crosses the centerline. Then I flip the square over, slide it back against the can, and make another diagonal mark that intersects the first. X marks the spot. Do that in a few locations and then draw your centerline through the Xs.
The paint can is just to positively index the fore/aft position of the square for the second diagonal mark. You can use any object but round shape placed near the centerline is best, especially if the ski has a lot of sidecut.
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In use a 3d printed center finder. It is accurate. Self check each time by marking center then flipping center finder tool and marking again. Avoid overtightening the tool.fwiw
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Got a single spinner while reusing some holes for a heel piece, is the agreed upon advice still:
- Try fiberglass + waterproof slow-set epoxy
- If that fails, quiver killer or helicoil?
Interested in trying a mount, I watched the dynaduke videos and read the guides on the slideright website and I am still confused on a few points.
In the dynaduke video he measures the centerline by making measurements from the topsheet. The slideright website indicates that you should use a specialized tool for this, measuring from the base edge. Is the preciseness necessary here or is going off the topsheet ok?
In the dynaduke video he just punches a small hole and uses a bit with a collar to drill. Obviously I don’t want to ruin the first pair of skis I try this on, do you have to have a really steady hand to get away with this? Should I just pony up for a Jigarex?
In the same vein, Slideright suggests tapping a hole but dynaduke guy just drills it and fills the hole with glue. Is tapping necessary?
How does the process differ for demo binders, am I just mounting the demo tracks? Does the placement of toe/heel still differ for BSL or is it in a fixed distance from the center line?
Measure from edge to edge.
Buy the $20 stepped drill bit from slidewright so you dont have to fuck around with collars and slightly different bit sizes.
Ive never tapped anything and done 10+ mounts and am a bigger guy.
Nothing changes when mounting demo bindings.
Its a lot easier than you think. Get out of your head and just Mount Your Own Fucking Skis.
yup, there are lots of threads on how-toQuote:
Originally Posted by vonn
Ha I was mostly going off your posts. One question I had was whether I actually need to take the heel piece off before trying the fiberglass method? I'm worried about trashing the threads in one of the other holes when doing so.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
not reallyQuote:
Originally Posted by vonn
I'm a little confused. How does the stepped drill bit help with drilling straight/overdrilling? Wouldn't a collar work better?
Collars can slide and the depth will be less precise than a solid bit. I'm sure there are other reasons why it's preferable too that others might chime in with.Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSkua
Okay, that's making sense to me. I might get the drill guide on SlideWright's website, just to be safe. Better safe than sorry
I have had collars slip same with bits of tape so I suggest the wine bottle method,Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSkua
buy a bottle of wine with a real cork, drink the wine but wait a day to drill, drill thru the top of the cork, slip the bit up or down in the chuck till you have the right amount of drill sticking out, the only thing that can go rong from there is the bit slips and you don't drill deep enough so it should be impossibe to fuck up
Attachment 441473
Re mount tele waak a mole karhu fishscale planks with 3pin/cable clamps.
Reused old holes from those bulldawg things.
Meadow brapbrap
You can fuck up most other parts of the mount, and the consequences are really not that big. you can pretty much just plug a hole and remount. But if the collar slips and you drill through the ski, or the collar depth isnt deep enough and you dimple everysingle screw (no one checks until after all screws are tightened down), you have actually kindof fucked your ski up.Quote:
Originally Posted by vonn
So, just buy the $20 bit to eliminate entirely the worst-case outcome.
As for a drill guide... if you arent mounting inserts, who the fuck cares if the screws are a few degrees off vertical?
I made the collars the ideal size for the task depth at hand with the bit all the way in the chuck. Drilling with the bit not all the way in is gonna end bad sometimes.. really bad.. Got two on a bits in my tuning gear box I've been using for 20+ years. One's for jr skis, one's for adult skis. Probably 30 pairs of skis with no OOPS.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
yeah so the selection of the standard wine bottle cork for your drill collar ensures there is enough bit in the chuck to prevent a catastrophe, but if some dentist from colorado trying to save money on a ski mount can't run a drill without fucking up
I certainly wouldn't want his hands in my mouth, just sayn
Is a wine bottle cork just a really long drill collar that doesnt need a setscrew ?
I think the dentist would just spend the $20 on the stepped bit... but I'm no dentist so what do I know?Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
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even the one asking about drill collars with the itty bitty setscrew that slips ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
Quick question as I am crossed between how tight I need properly screw the bindings into a ski…. Haha
My skis have printed on them to only us 4nm of torque but I’ve also been told to make sure the binding is flush and not coming off the ski. To get the binding flat it requires a lot more than 4nm but I’m not spinning any of the screws when I achieve that. Im not going crazy on it but it’s pretty damn hand tight when it’s all said and done
Only mounting pivots and I know the metal base is all that you want flush.
I havent torn a binding out and have skied all of my mounts pretty hard but these new dynastars are telling me that YGD
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Is your top sheet flat? If you didn't chamfer/tap the holes, then you're probably working against the volcanoes forming while you're cranking those screws down.
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I hope I’m understanding correctly. I’ve had that happen when I haven’t held the binding down tight enough as I’m screwing the screw in. It’s like it gets bound going through the hole in the binding (always when going through metal). Now I run the screws through the binding a time or two to loosen up the hole before I try to mount it and haven’t had the problem again. 4nm and they’re sucked down flush. I tap regardless of metal or no metal in the ski and having the screw a bit loose and not bind on the binding holes makes it easier to hit the threads too.Quote:
Originally Posted by old mexico
Sounds like that could be it. The first two I did I replaced the toe/afd bases and brake assemblies to new. The screws would stick in them when turned in slightly. I do apply downward pressure on them while screwing then into the ski.
I also do not chamfer/tap the holes but none have had metal that I have encountered this with. These Mpro 105s I got do and I figured I’d ask before I mount up anymore. Thank you
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first set of non indie sticks ive bought n mounted in a long time
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
managed to smack a stump/log pretty good on the first day
compressed the base pretty good but didnt core shot
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
not sure if the edge woulda survived
ptexed em up and gonna ski em again today
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
IME sometimes the screw gets hung up in binding holes and the plastic shim rides up the screw threads away from the ski instead of snugging down to the ski no matter how many nm's you use, usually I just take the screws out and try again, you could also try running a drill bit or file thru the binding holes very SLIGHTLY just enough so the screws do not hang up on the binding shim during instal, if you took out the screw you might have a volcano, remove it with something sharpQuote:
Originally Posted by old mexico
when you are reinserting screws in a previously used hole if you very gently turn the screw backwards in the hole you should be able to feel where the screw threads start, when you feel the screw drop you are in the beginning of the thread so you can tighten up that screw without cutting more threads becuz cutting more threads is more likely to cause a spinner
Once you buy a ski bit you’ll never go back.Quote:
Originally Posted by vonn
Guaranteed depth. And also it chamfers the hole so no dimples.
If you can drill straight I can’t see the need for a guide.
Ski bit for the win. Drill press plus ski bit and tap makes the process stupid easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
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Yeah... the guy with disposable income should spring for the proper solution of the correct bit... over drill collars and wine corks.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
All can work fine the the proper bit is close to impossible to fuck up.
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Ski bit is well worth the money as insurance from f'ing up a ski.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
Having a brilliant friend with a drill press, laser cutter, and 3d printer is priceless.
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Tried searching, couldn't find an answer that looked reliable. Does the Strive 14 GW share a hole pattern with any other Amer products, or is it unique?
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