It's a brand new bike, hasn't even been ridden on dirt yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
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It's a brand new bike, hasn't even been ridden on dirt yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
:nonono2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
:D
Attachment 369460Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Depending on who assembled it, could still be corroded. If it was installed dry, galvanic corrosion could set in pretty quick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Certainly doesn't rule out the possibility of some other fuckery though.
Ham-fisted assembly is seeming likely. I'm going to call the shop I bought it from tomorrow and see what they say. I'd just take it in, but they're 90 miles away. Next step after that is probably a local dealer.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Don’t quote me on this, but I remember reading about, or hearing on a pod cast about Spec rear axles being super over torqued on bikes directly from the factory. I think i may have been JRA podcast, when they were talking about removing eThirteen cassettes, and how big of breaker bar they need to to break it free, then they discussed Specialized rear axles from the factory.
BUT I know specialized does not allow bikes to be shipped or delivered to customers with out an assembly by their “specially” trained technicians.
So my question is how do you assemble and properly prepare a customers bike with out removing the rear wheel from the bike.
My build steps with the rear wheel off include:
Torque cassette
Torque rotor bolts/center lock
Grease rear axle
Check derail hanger bolts torque
Check wheel trueness
Check spoke tension/squeeze test
Remove tube
Check rim tape
Install tubeless valve/sealant.
I would ask the shop if the rear wheel was removed for the build process, and if it was, what torque setting was it installed at.
After you fuckers left me caring way more about chains than I wanted, I strolled down the rabbit hole last night.
First point learned: Picking the right chain is probably more useful. And chain manufacturers chain descriptions do zero to help. But this helps a lot. I'm going with either the Sram XX1 or the YBN SLA Gold.
https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/w...ngevitypg1.pdf
https://cyclingtips.com/2019/12/the-...rable-11-speed
Second point learned: All the lube tests are run by and for roadies, emphasizing wattage and obsessive cleaning. At the end of every conclusion, they have the caveat that things are different for wet and dirty mountain bike rides. There just aren't any tests out there for us lazy bastards who want to let their shit stay grungy. And as amazing as the wax game sounds, re-waxing and swapping chains just isn't worth it for me. Re-waxing after 100 miles of shitty weather? Fuck that. I probably lube less than that sometimes.
Third point learned: I just got 2000 miles out of my ebike drivetrain according to the Specialized app. That's with one chain swap in the middle. That's using the bike as a tank, and riding in the shittiest weather you can imagine, and lots of shifting under load. Rode hard, put up wet. It sounds pretty raw right now, and doesn't shift great, but it'll get through a ride just fine. I've replaced my RD 3 times. Ultimately, breaking shit will always be my highest cost, and my highest wrenching time commitment. Currently ordering 2x cassetes, 2x chains, 2x chainrings, 2x RDs for Mr & Mrs bikes. See ya in another 2K.
To shoot this dead horse one more time.... I’m firmly in the camp of just spending 20 seconds dripping some lube on my chain and wiping it off. I’ve got a half dozen bottles various lubes I need to burn through before I think about buying a new product. I’m open to buying a wax based product, however, whatever I do, the process of application should not be more than 20 seconds and will not involve a crockpot.
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I think I'll just go belt drive. This chain stuff is too much man.
Hey non-cleaning drippers. More power to ya.
Speaking as a former bike shop owner; we LOVE customers who look at maintenance as a waste of time and effort. Thanks for supporting the American dream! :cool:
[s] My $450 XX1 cassette does not need to be cleaned, it’s a wear item, I’ll just replace it. [/s]Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
[s] = sarcasm font
There was a similar issue with Rocky bikes a few years ago, they came out of assembly with a massively overtightened rear axle bolt. I had a meltdown working on Ms Boissal's bike thinking I was going to break everything and eventually took it to the shop. Guy had seen a dozen of them already, gave it a quick shot with the impact driver, stripped it just like the others, and drilled it out. Terrifying to watch on a brand new Altitude.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Small AZN man with mis-calibrated impact gun ^^ in Tiawan
probably the same guy responsible for COVID
Sarcasm font!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
That just hit me as awesome. Well played.
The bike rolled out of the shop with tubes. I'm thankful for this because 1) I got two 29" tubes free with the bike; and 2) It meant I discovered this issue in the stand and not on the trail where it would have been much worse.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
I'm guessing that the wheel was not removed and re-installed by the shop. The shop in question is more like a regional version of REI than a typical LBS. I doubt that they have your attention to detail and disassemble/reassemble anything that came factory-assembled just in case something non-obvious arrived pre-borked.
I literally cringed reading this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
Fuck. That.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
I recently drilled out a rear axle/hanger on a very unique, non replaceable, $4500 frame with a $1500 custom paint job..... [emoji90] 🩳
The 2021 supply thread has me thinking I should pick up a new cassette. Are there any good (read: cheaper but just as good) alternatives to X01 XG1295, or should I just get another one of those?
Speaking as a former bike shop manager, we HATE customers who are overly anal about meaningless maintenance rituals on a bike that's about to be dragged through the mud and tomahawked down a rocky hillside. 80% of the time, all that "maintaining" is really just trying too hard to keep the bike clean and destroying the bearings with repeated washing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
So, as a former bike shop manager, you really recommend repeatedly dragging your bike through mud and tomahawking down rocky hillsides without ever doing "meaningless bike maintenance" such as basic cleaning? Just pour more lube into it. Leave the grit in place? After all, you're just going to replace it anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Bet your boss loved you.
Shop had no idea if the wheel was removed and re-installed before it was sold. Local Specialized dealer said to bring it in and that they haven't been seeing axles that were arriving over-tightened from the factory.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Your binary approach to bikes is exhausting. But the way you appear personally offended when someone doesn’t heed your warnings is rather amusing.
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Like I said at the outset, clean it when it needs it. Most decent lubes these days run pretty clean though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
You sound like one of those shop owners that would spend 5 hours meticulously cleaning and crockpotting some random bike that was in for a $15 repair. I know a few former shop owners that were like that.
[edit] Sprockets 2021! Pick your crockpot and be a dick about it!
I don't think anybody in the repair bidness really likes to phuck thing up or bill people, I would say bike store techs are more likely to underbill but the reality is the shop has to make its % , if they don't turn that around & make money for the shop its not going to be there for long.
of course the above does not apply to me, i want a deal cuz i brought this warm 6-pak of shitty macro beer
I recently i got all twisted up about shit-ily made dry suits and the fucked up things people do to them in an imperfect world
2 hrs later i had cooled down and realized it really just making us the company /me the contractor more money
I shared this thot with the front end folk, Bingo! sez the accountant
Naa, jus havin fun.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Honestly. my point was not that everyone should wax. But yes, I personally feel cleaning your drivetrain is important and IF you do that frequently, hot waxing doesn't really take any more time.