New Season, New Tires, New Thread

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gramboh

Definitely leaning that way. The DHF WT MaxxGrip up front has been awesome, huge upgrade for winter riding from the single compound HRII. Still running that HRII out back and yeah, braking on wet wood/rocks/roots is no bueno, lots of sliding.

---

Yeah - that single compound HRII really sucks...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Anospa

I just sent you a few messages about the morsa. They roll fast but do not grip. I couldn't get the TNT casing to work for me, either get grip and flat a ton, or run high pressure and have some fun skittery turns.

The cornering knobs are much smaller in person than you'd think.

---

I've found that the Morsas need a little break in. I wasn't digging them on the first couple of rides but now I really like them. I'm guessing they're like a car tire, shit for the first few miles until you rough them up a little.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gramboh

Definitely leaning that way. The DHF WT MaxxGrip up front has been awesome, huge upgrade for winter riding from the single compound HRII. Still running that HRII out back and yeah, braking on wet wood/rocks/roots is no bueno, lots of sliding. I love the DHR2 DH casing on the back of my DH bike, anchors so well.

---

Do the MaxxTerra DHR2 EXO or DD as soon as you can then, its a whole new world with a softer compound in the rear, not just braking but cornering and climbing too. It actually rolls better than you would think if you run a reasonable pressure, and wears well if you don't skid it all over the place or ride tons of rock/pavement/etc. Totally worth it especially if riding all around wet conditions.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jonny Snow

Do the MaxxTerra DHR2 EXO or DD as soon as you can then, its a whole new world with a softer compound in the rear, not just braking but cornering and climbing too. It actually rolls better than you would think if you run a reasonable pressure, and wears well if you don't skid it all over the place or ride tons of rock/pavement/etc. Totally worth it especially if riding all around wet conditions.

---

Does the DHR II come in DD on the 27.5x2.4WT size? On Maxxis' website, JensonUSA etc. I can only see 27.5x2.4WT in EXO (dual compound or 3C MaxxTerra). DD only seems to be in 27.5x2.3 -- is that significantly narrower than my DHF 2.5WT up front? Wonder how it would compare in width to my current HR II EXO Single compound out back.

Might just go with the 2.4WT EXO MaxTerra out back. Have had pretty good success with EXO casing even though I'm heavy (210lbs). Usually run 28-30psi in the back so not much folding and there isn't much tire slicing terrain where I am usually trail riding.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gramboh

Does the DHR II come in DD on the 27.5x2.4WT size? On Maxxis' website, JensonUSA etc. I can only see 27.5x2.4WT in EXO (dual compound or 3C MaxxTerra). DD only seems to be in 27.5x2.3 -- is that significantly narrower than my DHF 2.5WT up front? Wonder how it would compare in width to my current HR II EXO Single compound out back.

Might just go with the 2.4WT EXO MaxTerra out back. Have had pretty good success with EXO casing even though I'm heavy (210lbs). Usually run 28-30psi in the back so not much folding and there isn't much tire slicing terrain where I am usually trail riding.

---

You're right, I don't see a 2.4 DD either, nor do I know if one is going to be released. The 2.3" is literally about .1" smaller at the casing, or 2.5mm less - noticeably smaller but not huge difference. I'd say the 2.3 DD is good if you ride super fast through rocks, plenty of people use them for enduro racing with a 2.5 in the front. The 2.4 EXO is better for softer terrain and/or technical riding with less abuse. Big weight difference. I personally just use an EXO in the rear on a suspension bike with reasonable pressure without any problems, but I'm not abusive.

Also consider a Huck Norris insert in the rear, they are about 75g, help prevent snakebite damage, and can be had for $30 each on ebay. I just got one to run on a hardtail in the rear. Yeah it's just foam, but it's the right kind of really nice high quality foam cut into the correct shape.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gramboh

Does the DHR II come in DD on the 27.5x2.4WT size? On Maxxis' website, JensonUSA etc. I can only see 27.5x2.4WT in EXO (dual compound or 3C MaxxTerra). DD only seems to be in 27.5x2.3 -- is that significantly narrower than my DHF 2.5WT up front? Wonder how it would compare in width to my current HR II EXO Single compound out back.

Might just go with the 2.4WT EXO MaxTerra out back. Have had pretty good success with EXO casing even though I'm heavy (210lbs). Usually run 28-30psi in the back so not much folding and there isn't much tire slicing terrain where I am usually trail riding.

---

I run a 2.5 WT DHF up front paired with a 2.3 DHRII in the back. On a 30mm internal rim this combo works great. I chose to run the 2.3 in back to lower rolling resistance and weight and I don't need my rear end to hook up as much as my front end.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jonny Snow

You're right, I don't see a 2.4 DD either, nor do I know if one is going to be released. The 2.3" is literally about .1" smaller at the casing, or 2.5mm less - noticeably smaller but not huge difference. I'd say the 2.3 DD is good if you ride super fast through rocks, plenty of people use them for enduro racing with a 2.5 in the front. The 2.4 EXO is better for softer terrain and/or technical riding with less abuse. Big weight difference. I personally just use an EXO in the rear on a suspension bike with reasonable pressure without any problems, but I'm not abusive.

Also consider a Huck Norris insert in the rear, they are about 75g, help prevent snakebite damage, and can be had for $30 each on ebay. I just got one to run on a hardtail in the rear. Yeah it's just foam, but it's the right kind of really nice high quality foam cut into the correct shape.

---

Good stuff, hadn't really thought of the Huck Norris before. I've run EXOs on my trail bike without any issue even though I'm a bigger dude. I don't ride that hard and there aren't that many sharp rocks here although there is rough terrain, it's more smooth rocks and roots (Sea to Sky). With 28-30psi in the back I rarely ding my rims. May just go with an EXO again rather than sizing down but we will see.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Eluder

I run a 2.5 WT DHF up front paired with a 2.3 DHRII in the back. On a 30mm internal rim this combo works great. I chose to run the 2.3 in back to lower rolling resistance and weight and I don't need my rear end to hook up as much as my front end.

---

I happen to have 30mm id rims as well... good point about lower rolling resistance. I've actually thought more about a DD casing tire up front as I find the EXO at 25-27psi too soft in corners sometimes (I don't shred, but I'm heavy).

Will ponder this a bit as it's currently dumping snow in downtown Vancouver so won't be on the bike again for a while.

Looking for a new rear tire and stumbled upon this:
http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/product_ne...-enduro-369852
Michelin Wild Enduro. Anyone know anything?

Probably going to go with an Aggressor for now since I'm still rocking 26" in the ass part of the bike. 26" options are getting harder and harder to pin down.

Anyone out there running Crush Core or Flat Tire Defender?
I'm toying with the idea of changing the DH bike to trail tires with Crush Core.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jm2e

Anyone out there running Crush Core or Flat Tire Defender?
I'm toying with the idea of changing the DH bike to trail tires with Crush Core.

---

Spend $300, save 100g per wheel, give up cut protection and soft rubber compounds? Sounds dandy.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jm2e

Looking for a new rear tire and stumbled upon this:
http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/product_ne...-enduro-369852
Michelin Wild Enduro. Anyone know anything?

Probably going to go with an Aggressor for now since I'm still rocking 26" in the ass part of the bike. 26" options are getting harder and harder to pin down.

---

They’re out in April . I’ll probably try them and see if they’ll unseat my wr2’s. The rear specific one is lighter for some reason. Still looks capable but with less rolling resistance. Not sure about the lighter though. Huck Norris could ease my concern.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jm2e

Anyone out there running Crush Core or Flat Tire Defender?
I'm toying with the idea of changing the DH bike to trail tires with Crush Core.

---

Thought about that. Be interested to hear how it goes. My wr2’s held up well shuttling on our rough rocky roots dh trails. The tires were relatively fresh though and not a lot of shuttling but no flats or sidewalk rips. Still wish they had those with a dh casing option for piece of mind

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jm2e

26" options are getting harder and harder to pin down.

---

I was told they'll be making a comeback soon.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by toast2266

I was told they'll be making a comeback soon.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

---

By Damien?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by grskier

By Damien?

---

Yup.

And some people in the pinkbike comments that appear to be very knowledgeable on the subject.

If you look around a bit, the internet is full of people with secret insider info.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Almost glad I have zero insider intel. Been thinking I’d like a dh bike with 26” wheels because they’re fun/shocker
Maybe it’d be hard to get parts though, idk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by grskier

By Damien?

---

http://i0.kym-cdn.com/entries/icons/...atsthejoke.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dantheman

http://i0.kym-cdn.com/entries/icons/...atsthejoke.jpg

---

I could quote yours as the joke as well :p


I should have stocked up on my soon to be new to my wife's bike when I get my soon to be new to me bike.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by grinch

Almost glad I have zero insider intel. Been thinking I’d like a dh bike with 26” wheels because they’re fun/shocker
Maybe it’d be hard to get parts though, idk

---

26" is by far the best choice for bike park and freeride. Just look at what the Fest series people ride. You can get a 26" boxxer WC for $630, 26" DH rims and tires are still very common.

As far as insider info goes, it doesn't take a genius to figure out that bike sales are down and 26" is a market that is not adequately being served.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jonny Snow

26" is by far the best choice for bike park and freeride. Just look at what the Fest series people ride. You can get a 26" boxxer WC for $630, 26" DH rims and tires are still very common.

As far as insider info goes, it doesn't take a genius to figure out that bike sales are down and 26" is a market that is not adequately being served.

---

I’m just thinking buying a complete w little use. Bit of an issue finding rims and tires but there has to be old stock somewhere. Should have kept my demo

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by grinch

They’re out in April . I’ll probably try them and see if they’ll unseat my wr2’s. The rear specific one is lighter for some reason. Still looks capable but with less rolling resistance. Not sure about the lighter though.

---

This says that the rear is 1070g (same as the WR2) and front is 980g: https://www.mtb-mag.com/en/first-rid...n-wild-enduro/

I like the look of them anyway and will probably try the rear if the price is right. My last few rears have been WR2s and I like em; tough enough, cheap from UK shops, perform well. Trying a 2.5 WTB Breakout Tough Fast next just out of curiosity but not sure how clearance will be. Aggressor 2.5 WT is also on my list; most reports say it rolls and grips better than the Breakout but some say the opposite.

A racer & guide friend of mine swears by Procore inside 1000-1200g rubber. I put a few holes in my first WR2 and told myself if it happened again then I'd switch to a rear Procore inside DHR2 EXO 2.4 (same total weight as the WR2) but have been keeping an eye on my pressures better and the last two WR2s have had no holes so I'm sticking with a 1050-1150g rear for now.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LC

This says that the rear is 1070g (same as the WR2) and front is 980g: https://www.mtb-mag.com/en/first-rid...n-wild-enduro/

I like the look of them anyway and will probably try the rear if the price is right. My last few rears have been WR2s and I like em; tough enough, cheap from UK shops, perform well. Trying a 2.5 WTB Breakout Tough Fast next just out of curiosity but not sure how clearance will be. Aggressor 2.5 WT is also on my list; most reports say it rolls and grips better than the Breakout but some say the opposite.

A racer & guide friend of mine swears by Procore inside 1000-1200g rubber. I put a few holes in my first WR2 and told myself if it happened again then I'd switch to a rear Procore inside DHR2 EXO 2.4 (same total weight as the WR2) but have been keeping an eye on my pressures better and the last two WR2s have had no holes so I'm sticking with a 1050-1150g rear for now.

---

Interesting. Those weights make more sense. 3 ply sounds nice in that app. 8 different types of rubber!?!? Holy next level. Michelin mtb site lists the rear at 950g and front at 980g. Hopefully it’s incorrect
https://bike.michelin.com/en/product...m-x0#undefined

Be interested to hear how the wtb’s work out. They look like they have a few nice models. Bit confusing with various builds on each models and acronyms though. I’m just not really familiar with though.
Huck Norris has paid its way for me. Doesn’t add much weight and doesn’t cost much. It does get damaged from hits but it’s saved pinch flats(I suspect) and for sure it’s saved rims. Raceface/Easton rims use butter in their aluminum apparently. Bend ez(also bend back ez without cracking). Pre Huck Norris I dented them almost every ride whether I flatted or not. I haven’t had an issue since installing the Huck Norris. Shuttling included, several mistakes, roots and rocks nailed and expected the worse. I haven’t torn a sidewalk or ripped anything on the wr2’s . I might have pinch bited one , pre Huck Norris install , but I might be mistaken and that was another tire ,Just used huck in the rear of both bikes. Even if they only lasted the length of the tire they’ve paid their way 10 fold although they’re still going/working. New ones are supposedly much tougher too. Happy with the combo I have now Huck/wr2’s and tempted to stay but I’m tempted to try Michelin’s new offerings. New rear looks to have the side knobs but with a quicker rolling centre treads. Same for you, decent price from crc. Best rubber so 8 different types of rubber should be even better

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by grinch

Be interested to hear how the wtb’s work out. They look like they have a few nice models. Bit confusing with various builds on each models and acronyms though. I’m just not really familiar with though.

---

WTB fucked themselves because they changed how they describe their compounds, but they've been super inconsistent in applying that change. Easiest thing is to ignore the whole "fast rolling / high grip" thing and just look at the casings and compounds. They have 2 casings: light = single ply; tough = 2 ply, folding bead. They have 3 compounds: DNA = 60a single compound; Dual DNA = dual compound, harder middle, softer side knobs; Gravity DNA = hard compound underneath capped with softer 45a compound. They also have comp tires, that aren't tubeless compatible and are pretty much just shit.

More on all of that sort of thing: http://blistergearreview.com/gear-re...bike-tires-101

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by grinch

Interesting. Those weights make more sense. 3 ply sounds nice in that app. 8 different types of rubber!?!? Holy next level. Michelin mtb site lists the rear at 950g and front at 980g. Hopefully it’s incorrect
https://bike.michelin.com/en/product...m-x0#undefined

Be interested to hear how the wtb’s work out. They look like they have a few nice models. Bit confusing with various builds on each models and acronyms though. I’m just not really familiar with though.
Huck Norris has paid its way for me. Doesn’t add much weight and doesn’t cost much. It does get damaged from hits but it’s saved pinch flats(I suspect) and for sure it’s saved rims. Raceface/Easton rims use butter in their aluminum apparently. Bend ez(also bend back ez without cracking). Pre Huck Norris I dented them almost every ride whether I flatted or not. I haven’t had an issue since installing the Huck Norris. Shuttling included, several mistakes, roots and rocks nailed and expected the worse. I haven’t torn a sidewalk or ripped anything on the wr2’s . I might have pinch bited one , pre Huck Norris install , but I might be mistaken and that was another tire ,Just used huck in the rear of both bikes. Even if they only lasted the length of the tire they’ve paid their way 10 fold although they’re still going/working. New ones are supposedly much tougher too. Happy with the combo I have now Huck/wr2’s and tempted to stay but I’m tempted to try Michelin’s new offerings. New rear looks to have the side knobs but with a quicker rolling centre treads. Same for you, decent price from crc. Best rubber so 8 different types of rubber should be even better

---

I managed to dent my Stans Arch MK3 even with Huck Norris. But I’m sure I would have had more dents without it. I checked on it after a few months and it’s full of holes. These strips of foam are good, but need to cost $10 and not $60 or whatever given how quickly they get punched up.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by D(C)

I managed to dent my Stans Arch MK3 even with Huck Norris. But I’m sure I would have had more dents without it. I checked on it after a few months and it’s full of holes. These strips of foam are good, but need to cost $10 and not $60 or whatever given how quickly they get punched up.

---

What tire pressure are running?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by toast2266

WTB fucked themselves because they changed how they describe their compounds, but they've been super inconsistent in applying that change. Easiest thing is to ignore the whole "fast rolling / high grip" thing and just look at the casings and compounds. They have 2 casings: light = single ply; tough = 2 ply, folding bead. They have 3 compounds: DNA = 60a single compound; Dual DNA = dual compound, harder middle, softer side knobs; Gravity DNA = hard compound underneath capped with softer 45a compound. They also have comp tires, that aren't tubeless compatible and are pretty much just shit.

More on all of that sort of thing: http://blistergearreview.com/gear-re...bike-tires-101

---

Thanks. That’ll be a good resource. I keep looking at the “convict”

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by D(C)

I managed to dent my Stans Arch MK3 even with Huck Norris. But I’m sure I would have had more dents without it. I checked on it after a few months and it’s full of holes. These strips of foam are good, but need to cost $10 and not $60 or whatever given how quickly they get punched up.

---

Stan’s rims are fairly durable too. My hucks have slashes in them all the wY around and I’m do for a new rear tire . That’s only one tire cycle so take it with a grain of salt. I imagine atleast one of those hits has saved a tire and/or rim. I’ll probably get another set of HN’s based on that and the weight but I’ll be definitely looking to get the new tougher version. My other bike and tire with one in it only has a few days on it. They’re dh days but it’s too early to say it’s saved anything. I just can’t see myself paying the price of the other systems or lugging the weight around

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by grinch

Thanks. That’ll be a good resource. I keep looking at the “convict”

---

I've got a bunch of time on the convict. Works ok on a fairly wide (~35mm) rim. Too round on narrower rims - it's tough to really engage the side knobs. But on a wide rim, it's somewhat similar to a dhr2.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by toast2266

I've got a bunch of time on the convict. Works ok on a fairly wide (~35mm) rim. Too round on narrower rims - it's tough to really engage the side knobs. But on a wide rim, it's somewhat similar to a dhr2.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

---

Great. That’s pretty hard to tell from a pic. I think I still have a 35mm inner i was going to swap over on the front in place of the 30mm. Could be worth a try. That , the new mich, and the new heavier e13 are on the short list to try. I guess I should add gwinns new tire to that as well

In my experience, the convict is similar to a dhrII but hard as F to remount after a flat. I wouldn’t buy that tire after breaking 4 tire irons trying to remount, there are better options as far as user friendliness goes with the same amount of grip...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Eluder

What tire pressure are running?

---

27ish PSI in back.

I think the dents happen if the tire rolls as it hits a sharp rock. I tore a tire right near the bead recently with HN in, and it left a slight dent in the rim.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by grinch

I just can’t see myself paying the price of the other systems or lugging the weight around

---

Agreed.

Huck Norris isn’t perfect and perhaps overpriced, but none of the other systems are reasonable to me. A new rim isn’t THAT expensive...

I'm not "really" approaching this from a flat tire perspective. I run 27-28psi in back for trail bike and DH bike (trail tires and DH tires respectively), and haven't gotten a flat in over a year. Last time I did, I put a flat spot on a brand new rim on Cedar Rock in Dupont going downhill very fast on slickrock and smashing a square edge like a mother fucker. The flattened rim hurt more than the snake bite tire. Lesson learned, but man I'd probably do it again because that run is so fucking fun.

Mrs2e on the other hand, breaks more shit than almost anyone I know, including rubber. After a string of flats on long, cold, wet rides I switched her to Huck Norris in rear tires only on both of her trail bikes and she hasn't flatted since. That was maybe 18 months ago. She runs 17-18psi in the back. Neither of us has flatted a DH bike, so haven't been pressed to protect the 2 ply tires, even though we've dented up some rims.

Now, after reading some reviews of Crush Core & Flat Tire Defender, AND listening to an interview with Gwin where he mentioned the most notable thing was increased damping and feeling of being planted, my eyes opened. Since I can theoretically switch from a DH tire to a trail tire on the DH rig, and then add Crush Core for no net weight gain, I though it might be interesting to see if the damping is the real deal.

Sounds like nobody in here has tried Crush Core or Flat Tire Defender though, so I'm left with the $150 decision whether to guinea pig this thing.
https://www.vitalmtb.com/features/Vi...t-Systems,1841

http://ridemonkey.bikemag.com/thread...thread.277271/

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jm2e

I'm not "really" approaching this from a flat tire perspective. I run 27-28psi in back for trail bike and DH bike (trail tires and DH tires respectively), and haven't gotten a flat in over a year. Last time I did, I put a flat spot on a brand new rim on Cedar Rock in Dupont going downhill very fast on slickrock and smashing a square edge like a mother fucker. The flattened rim hurt more than the snake bite tire. Lesson learned, but man I'd probably do it again because that run is so fucking fun.

Mrs2e on the other hand, breaks more shit than almost anyone I know, including rubber. After a string of flats on long, cold, wet rides I switched her to Huck Norris in rear tires only on both of her trail bikes and she hasn't flatted since. That was maybe 18 months ago. She runs 17-18psi in the back. Neither of us has flatted a DH bike, so haven't been pressed to protect the 2 ply tires, even though we've dented up some rims.

Now, after reading some reviews of Crush Core & Flat Tire Defender, AND listening to an interview with Gwin where he mentioned the most notable thing was increased damping and feeling of being planted, my eyes opened. Since I can theoretically switch from a DH tire to a trail tire on the DH rig, and then add Crush Core for no net weight gain, I though it might be interesting to see if the damping is the real deal.

Sounds like nobody in here has tried Crush Core or Flat Tire Defender though, so I'm left with the $150 decision whether to guinea pig this thing.
https://www.vitalmtb.com/features/Vi...t-Systems,1841

---

I get the damping thing Gwin is talking about, but what about cornering with an EXO sidewall vs. DH casing especially at lower pressures? Does the cushcore provide sidewall support?

Related: Dunbar Cycles finally got their hands on the mythical 27.5x2.5WT/2.4WT DHF/DHR II in folding bead/tubeless ready DH casing MaxxGrip. Will be nice to not wrestle with wire bead this summer on the DH bike.

I've got a Minion SS 2.3" to run in the rear on some 21mm internal rims. What should I get on the front?

DHF DC 2.3
DHF 3C 2.3
DHR2 DC 2.3
DHR2 3C 2.3
DHR2 DC 2.4WT
DHR2 3C 2.4WT
DHF DC 2.5WT
DHF 3C 2.5WT

Probably going with the DHF 2.3 DC for balanced feel and fast rolling. Maybe the 3C? Any reason to go DHR2 with a SS? Or the bigger tires, even though I'd be putting a WT tire on a narrower rim?

How effective is Cush Core as a bead lock? Can it make a non-tubeless rim and non-tubeless wire bead DH tire work safely tubeless with only gorilla tape in the rim bed?

Reviews of Crush Core and Flat Tire Defender that I've read make it sound virtually impossible to burp or roll a tire off the rim with those systems on. Obviously nobody is testing this stuff on antiquated rims and tires, but I'd bet the answer to your question is; yes, it'll certainly hold that tire on there for you.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jm2e

Reviews of Crush Core and Flat Tire Defender that I've read make it sound virtually impossible to burp or roll a tire off the rim with those systems on. Obviously nobody is testing this stuff on antiquated rims and tires, but I'd bet the answer to your question is; yes, it'll certainly hold that tire on there for you.

---

Sounds like a definite maybe.

Thought this was pretty nifty - home made foam inserts:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCfRoxOBarw

Art's has the 650B Schwalbe Procore for $71.98 shippedwith coupon "ARTS10", that's about as cheap as you're ever going to get it. They have one set left.

https://www.artscyclery.com/descpage.html?pcode=SWPCT27