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Don't you have the wrong template?? I guess the one pictured above is for the "old" Pivot (a.k.a. the Rossignol Axial 1) that looks like this:Quote:
Originally Posted by Binky
Attachment 153159
You probably have a "new" Pivot (a.k.a. the Rossignol FKS) that looks like this:
Attachment 153160
Selle,
Perhaps! I will print the other and see what it looks like.
Yep. That template even says axial on it.
Ya. I am a complete noob jong and printed the first template that said "pivot"
Just by way of encouragement, I did these today. Not a bad way to spend a Sunday afternoon - Lord SPs and Vertical STs:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psumuecc5d.jpg
I just mounted my own fucking skis and learned a few things. Have mounted a bunch before, but the new learning includes:
1- If the shavings that come out by drilling kind of look like they might be metal, stop and check if they are, and use a 4.1.
2. Without a tap, metal can be hard to screw through.
3. Using a pointy binding screw, with no binding in place, works ok(ish) as a tap.
4. If you don't pre-drill Dynafit plastic base plates, the threads can fill up with plastic, which can't be good for binding retention.
5. If your ski graphics have orange lines across the ski, an orange sharpie might not be the best choice for marking a boot center line. You could do a perfect job, and end up with one binding 3" back. Especially if you are too friggin numb to actually look at the thing before you but an extra 9 holes in a ski that has been drilled 3 times already.
6. Even on it's fifth mount, a Karhu Bullldog Jak will hold up to a dog walk behind the house.
Last but not least, as a different way to line up the pins by messing with the toe screws. Dry fit it first to see if it happens to be perfect.
- In tour mode, snug, don't crank the middle screw.
- Lay the boot centered on the pins, don't bother snapping in.
- Remove boot gently.
- Mark a line on on the ski/baseplate that will make any movement obvious while tightening screws.
- Crank the first two screws down. No movement at the line? Double check anyway.
- Use a C-clamp to prevent movement of the binding. I clamped the ski, and used it as a stop to prevent the third screw from pulling the binding. I threw another clamp on the base plate itself for good measure, mostly because it was right there, and very easy to apply.
- Pick the best most centered of the three remaining holes. Snug a screw in, check for movement, then crank.
- Repeat with final screws.
This was my third Dynafit mount. Since this particular job actually involves the equivalent of mounting 3 skis, (see #5 above), I had some opportunities to improve along the way. The final mount was fast and easy.
I actually have a jig to facilitate the process. After doing my first mount successfully with paper templates, I decided to bring some skis that would be used for an 8 day tour to a shop. i was considering QCing those skis, and wanted to be spot on. Basically, I drove 2.5 hours round trip, got an $80 speeding ticket, and a mount I had to re-do in my basement. At $70, this jig paid for itself easily. But, its an old jig with worn bushings, and not perfectly centered, so there is still some tweaking to be done.
Anybody in Western Maine in need of a jig, workbench, and the right bits, give me a shout.
This method for the final tweaking sounds genius. A lot of vague descriptions out there, which haven't worked for me. My last speed radical mount I had one toe that was slightly off- probably in the range of ok, but annoying bc I couldn't get the final adjust to take. Have been fixing to remedy this, will be trying this method out. Fortunately, I use standard binding sealant instead of epoxy, so hoping I can remove screws and replace without the holes being shot.Quote:
Originally Posted by hhtele
Attachment 153752
I just fucking mounted my own fucking skis
they look a bit far back. shoulda brought em to me. a 12 pack will do:)
nice looking skis, btw
rog
Mounted exactly per engineer/manufacture rec. mid sole on the line.
I'll drink my 12 pack, thanks
I know yer trollin' but I felt like respondin
Not taking da bait, sure is hot out here.
Let us know how you like those Worths.
I'm mounting skis with inserts. No epoxy, but I do have Marine Goop. Has anyone used it for inserts? Since it doesn't dry hard, I'm not sure it will hold when I want to remove the bindings, on the other hand, there isn't much clearance in the threads, so a little flexibility may not matter.
^^^^
That didn't work out so well for me. I'm a convert of the 72 hour epoxy from jondrums.
Yeah, i test fit one in a 2x4 and after 24 hours i was able to remove it with no force. Picked up some 24 hour epoxy instead.
Well, I went ahead and did it. -0.5 worked out. No room for inserts...so I'll just have to spend more time on the billy goats for those in bounds days.
Imagine the before with FFG16s.
These are the after.
Attachment 154042
Attachment 154043
That be a sweet setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by SupreChicken
just remounted my own fucking skis with BF inserts today - another two three pair on the bench
Blue BF plates look good on that ski. :wink:
had to grind down my screws since I bought the wrong ones - Alpinord's earlier advice to put a nut on the screw before you grind it was spot on - removing the nut helps sorta re-cut the threads - only 1 was fucked up and that was the one I didn't use the nut on
also remounted young Owen's Gotama Jr with the Pure Kidz - I musta been dumb when I first did it cuz the heel on one was off by a bit - Alpinord's centering ruler, my HH jig and a properly clamped drill guide made all the difference
having better tools helps a lot
http://www.slidewright.com/
Tonight is the night - trying to re-align some pilot holes for inserts that are just off using a jig and some extra clamps. Wish me luck.
have you already filled the old holes?
Ratfarts! One insert is fucked up. Won't take a screw. How do I get it out?
Yep, filled them a while ago with epoxy and a wood dowel (couldn't find dowels of exactly the correct size, but they are close). Didn't get around to it last night - softball, ya know - hopefully tonight, but I'm in no rush; touring with the GPOs this weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by telemike
How off is the insert?Quote:
Originally Posted by telemike
Threads are fucked up.
edit: on closer inspection, I can see there are no threads cut inside the insert. Can I tap it? God damn it.
edit again: finally managed to back it out with slotted screw driver
Is there epoxy in it? Or are the threads actually damaged?Quote:
Originally Posted by telemike
In my opinion, you have two options:
1) remove the same way you installed, just screw it out
2) Try forcing the screw in - assuming you have extra screws and can afford to lose a screw if it's threads get mangled. I would try this first because, if you break the bond of the epoxy and the insert is loosened, well, see option 1)
But, I haven't had to remove an insert before so couldn't say for sure and I'm sure someone here with more brains/savvy can chime in. Worst case scenario you wind up doing an insert helicol repair.
Lesson learned: double check EVERYTHING!
Never expected an insert without threads inside.
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...psc119enlv.jpg
The good and the bad.
Huh, that sucks. Weird.
Yep, I've had a couple BF inserts with no internal threads. I just went ahead and fixed them with a bottoming tap.
Post season remount on the Viciks, removed STH16 clamps and Sollyfit plates, plugged holes, cut off plugs, redrill for STH16 and remount. Bake in sun till golden brown.
Attachment 154720
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Attachment 154725
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Thanks for those pictures - you made me feel a lot better about the organization level of my bench.Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb
Nice deck and backyard there though.
THX, better view.Quote:
Originally Posted by pisteoff
Attachment 154736
Your welcomeQuote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
Anyone mounted up Dynafit low techs before?
http://media.dynafit.com/20131/08-00...48365_9170.jpg
Unless they come with a template in the box, I was thinking to use the Radical template from the paper templates thread, and then drilling and mounting toepiece. Then put boot in and heelpiece loose fit on boot, and marking the heel holes. I dunno, seems a bit loosey goosey, as it needs to be perfect on two dimensions (no BSL adjustment). Any other suggestions? What spacing do I need for the heel pins?
I've done a few. There is a three-hole Dynafit plastic template, but I didn't use it - I did as you suggest, mounted the toes then pushed the heelpieces up to the boot heels with a 4mm spacer in place to mark them. Sounds sketchy, but it worked.Quote:
Originally Posted by angrysasquatch
why not mount the heelpiece dead center 1st and then while sandwiching the boot & spacer mark/mount the toe with one screw?
I don't have any jigs so on AT mounts I always mount the heels 1st and then the toe's by one screw which lets the toe piece pivot around that screw and the boot or binding drops nicely into the heelpiece
That could work fine, too. I was more worried about getting the fore-aft spacing right than getting the toe alignment right (there's usually some after-the-fact adjustability there even if all the holes are already drilled). As for jigs, I have access to them at work, but I mount all mine with jondrum's templates printed on clear projection film and they've been perfect.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
As for marking the holes, I mark them once with an icepick dead center, then also trace around the outside of the binding plate hole with an ultra fine Sharpie and use the ice pick mark unless it looks seriously off center.
I would reccomend using plates for the heel. Gives you the option to use different boots, if you decide to upgrade and the bsl is different a remount isn't going to work usually with the 3 hole heel. I just mounted a set of low tech races on plates. Mounted toe first using a jig, then used included template for plates to get an idea of where the plate should be mounted relative to the toe for the bsl I was mounting for. Then made some lateral adjustments to the plate to get the heel pins to lineup with my heel fittings when the boot was locked into the toes.Quote:
Originally Posted by angrysasquatch
yeah of course its the fore-aft thing that is scary so putting the heel piece on a plate makes a lot of sense for how many grams extra weight?Quote:
Originally Posted by gregL
I put boot on ski and position fore/aft with a t-square on the boot center mark to figure out where the boot should go and use the binding for a mounting template, I never bother with templates