^^^^20% hold back until the job is 100% complete, signed off by the building inspector, is what I would go with.
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^^^^20% hold back until the job is 100% complete, signed off by the building inspector, is what I would go with.
Unless your potential buyers have or plan to have children in which case they will want a tub in a bathroom other than the master. Also, you may not like to take a bath but a surprising number of adults do. Just sayin'Quote:
Originally Posted by fastfred
You can hold 5% on our county contracts as a retention.Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno
Agreed... kids bath is great place for the tub. Wife uses it frequently, too. I prefer the car wash shower with 3/4" supply lines.Quote:
Originally Posted by KQ
This. And don't pay it till the final punch list items are resolved. A C/O isn't any sort of guarantee your contractor will finish his full duties, so wait till he fixes that last wall gouge / un painted trim and then pay the 5%.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
Here is what you do:Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno
For a small project using A105, I just cross out the verbiage of "Article 2, Date of Commencement and Substantial Completion." and insert language such as "The Contractor shall complete (final completion) the Work by February XX, 2016." Along with that I also cross out Section 12.5, Substantial Completion and Section 12.6.1. You don't need to worry about a substantial completion date versus a final completion date in small projects.
Section 12.6.2 and 12.6.3 state when final payment is due. Also, anywhere it says "Architect", I just cross it out and write "Owner."
Article 4, Payment, is where you should put when the payments are due the contractor. I'd suggest an initial payment (10%), and then a 1st progress payment after a construction milestone, and then a second project payment after another construction milestone. Then the remainder of the contract sum shall be paid after final completion and receipt of release and waiver of liens as outlined in Section 12.6.2.
Also, you can likely cross out the following sections: 6.4, 7.1.1, 7.4, 8.8 (You should mark what submittals you want though; maybe do as an appendix), Article 9, 12.2, 12.3, 12.4.1, 12.4.2, (keep 12.4.3), 12.4.4, 12.5, 12.6.1, 15.2.2, 16.1 (first sentence only)
Hows about an update there, Danno? Y'all got he place put back together yet?
Bathrooms are almost done. They are really completely done in all the important ways, but we have a few finishing items and a few things that need to be fixed. Have about a $1000 hold back to ensure they happen. :D Total cost was ~$23.5k. Permit has been signed off on by the City. They are pretty pimp.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser
Kitchens are still the same old same old. We finally got a detailed bid from the folks we had selected, and it was a LOT higher than their original verbal price. Partly because of our cabinet choice which they said was more expensive than they had estimated. Also partly because we need a beam installed if they take out the wall. So, we're actually probably going to pivot back to the guy who just finished the bathrooms, and go with Ikea cabinets. He was easy to work with and seems very competent for all the core stuff. Where he seems lacking is in the finish work, his tiling and finer carpentry left something to be desired. But his prices were excellent.
Anyone done an Ikea kitchen? Tips or advice?
Get cardboard boxs and save even more money.
understand the filler pieces since ikea cabs are modular units and won't fit your space perfectlyQuote:
Originally Posted by Danno
don't buy their plumbing products
make sure any blocking is in walls intended to hold up stuff
otherwise pretty straight forward, and ikea will help you lay it all out
(and go into it eyes open & don't pretend it's all that durable)
FWIW, we just did an IKEA kitchen including an island. Sounds like we did something similar including knocking down a wall and putting up an engineered beam.
I am pretty sure their stupid software took several years off of my life.
We are really happy with the end product. Everything is solid and soft closing hinges are the tits. They recently completely overhauled their kitchen line so anybody who is telling you they are junk because their friend put them in 5 years ago doesn't know what they're talking about.
^that or you don't know the difference.
Nice! We are planning on paying a designer -- there are folks who specialize in Ikea kitchens -- to design it all, because I fear what you describe with their software. I saw one person who will do all the measurements and design your kitchen, including producing a complete Ikea order list, for $600. That seemed like money well spent.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Tortoise
Did you use Ikea counter tops or something else? How much did all the Ikea products cost, if you don't mine me asking?
I know at least 3 or 4 people who have done an Ikea kitchen in the last 3 or so years and all are very happy with them and they look great.
In Canada, so pricing is an estimate.Quote:
Did you use Ikea counter tops or something else? How much did all the Ikea products cost, if you don't mine me asking?
We basically had a galley that turned it into a island with a counter and cabinets on the wall side. Total for everything was under $4k. That includes all the island panels. The nice thing about the software is that once you're done it automatically generates a quote and order list. The photo of the island below is incomplete since the dishwasher is to the left of the sink.
We went with Lowes for the countertop. They just connect with a local installer. We had some minor issues and they were handled promptly by the local company.
Another tip was that if you want it to look like an IKEA kitchen, use IKEA handles. So we went with handles from another company (that we liked more than anything offered by IKEA).
Attachment 181493Attachment 181494
Thanks! We'll have more cabinets than you, I think. Our island is likely bigger, we'll have a wall of cabinets plus the fridge (along your 8'11 wall), than a few cabinets opposite the island, where the sink is. But it's good to know the ballpark. I was thinking about $5k, which is probably close to right.
yes ikea cabinets are cheap but IME the actual cabinet place in town uses the same cheap shitty MDF, and only quoted cabinets in the same 3" increments so I would have ended up with filler panels. AFAIK filler panels are used in any house that isn't square (ie most houses, esp older places).
For reference the cabinet place quoted $13k, & the flat pack cabinets I got were $5k plus Ikea butcher block counters. Actual ikea cabinets were $5k also but I didn't like the colour hence we got other flat pack cabinets. Kitchen turned out great, spending big $$ for a true custom kitchen would have been a waste in my house.
edit: I was very glad to have a buddy help install them who has done it before. I'd like to think it didn't turn out any better or worse than if I did it all myself but it would have taken me 3 times as long.
We put in an ikea kitchen into my mothers home 2 years ago.
A couple times a year Ikea offers big discounts (20%?) on orders over xx. We designed it ourselves on ikea software and worked with a local contractor that specializes in ikea kitchens. He verified all measurements and installation was seamless- his guys were even able to modify some boxes to work in our space.
Went with the ceasarstone engineered quartz countertops through ikea--and with our package discount nowhere else could match the price.
We looked elsewhere for the hardware as we didnt love ikea's offering.
2 years in we could not be happier with how reasonable it was and with how it turned out.
We had really good luck with IKEA cabinets. Designed the kitchen online, had them shipped to AK, with minimal damage. All-in cabinets were < $5K, though we had formica countertops done up. I was actually impressed by the hardware (Hinges, slides, etc.) The cabinets themselves are ho-hum, but the doors is what most see anyways. Knowing what you are actually getting with IKEA is the Key. Our house isn't worth $250k, so spending $20K on cabinets didn't seem like a wise decision. We have gotten plenty of compliments on our kitchen remodel, so we're happy.
If you are to go the IKEA route, I'd recommend a few things:
Order extra trim panels, pieces. The will be used.
Do not design your kitchen with tight dimensions / fitment. Most walls are not plumb, nor square, at least that is what we found in our shitty house.
If you have thoughts of using the same cabinet style/ finish else where in the house, order them all at the same time. IKEA like to discontinue colors/finishes.
Get more drawers than shelves.
IKEA typically has 20% off cabinets sale a couple times of year, but supplies tend to diminish during those sales.
to be clear, filler panels are used in any installation using modular cabinetry (of all levels of quality)Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesp
(it has nothing to do with the house; tho you are correct they are rarely plumb or level)
danno, sounds like you're not alone in the ikea cabs world so you should hear some good input
Holy massive fucking facepalm. So you are going to pay a guy AGAIN when you already know he sucks at his job? Sorry to say, but if you are noticing that his tile work and his trim work are not up to snuff, there are probably much bigger problems that you are missing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno
+++++++++++++++ VIBES +++++++++++++++++++++
Yes, because every master tiler also knows plumbing and electrical and ductwork and building codes and everything else under the sun. I realize that I don't have the experience in the trades that you do but I know enough to know that a good jack of all trades isn't necessarily going to be a master at every one. And the people who work for him, even less so. He doesn't suck at his job, he did everything just fine, but to a critical eye looking for problems, we found them in the tiling and in some of the other fine details. We could have asked him to sub out the tile work, but we accepted the work for the lower price. And we'll do so again (though there's virtually no tiling in the kitchen).Quote:
Originally Posted by RootSkier
But thanks for the vibes.
I was just checking out a kitchen remodel and the owner was using IKEA cabinets (boxes) with a third party door and front maker made specifically for IKEA cabinets. Sounded like they were nicer than what IKEA offers and not much more expensive. If that sounds interesting, I could get the name of the company for you.
Sure, that would be helpful. I know that there's a company called semihomemade that does Ikea fronts.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerlane
Wonder what you all think of this website: newavenuehomes.com. I am looking at it now for a remodel and it looks like a good fit for me (I trust no one - especially in markets with massive information asymmetries like construction).
Attachment 181518Quote:
Originally Posted by jerlane
Semihandmade is one company that does cool fronts for IKEA boxes. Basic fronts are at same price-point as IKEA.
We flipped a house last year that had IKEA cabinets that were 11 years old and still looked good. We repainted fronts and boxes and they looked even better.
As was said above, don't use IKEA plumbing, or countertops in my opinion. Danno we spec'ed stone in our flip last year - I think you are on the FR, let me know if you need a rec on a fabricator.
wow, what an unnecessary intermediary!Quote:
Originally Posted by mogul5480
just call an architect, home designer, or design/build pro and check their references
pick the one that is universally loved by a bunch of people who had projects like yours
then follow their recommendations and work with them towards a successful project
they will guide you to competent GC's
or
if you have a lead on a great GC, ask which design pros they work with to develop successful projects
Yes, please! We're on a tight budget for getting this all done, so if your recommendation is for someone high-end it probably won't work, but always glad to have a referral.Quote:
Originally Posted by ski-wpk
I have heard the plumbing thing from a few folks. Ikea's countertop pricing looks pretty good, but admittedly we haven't gotten to the counters part of the project yet. We have our basic design down as in we know where everything is going to be when the wall comes down (eg island, fridge, sink, etc), but we haven't mapped out any of the specifics.
don't buy ikea cabinets don't buy counter tops at ikea either, find out how much it costs to assemble everything and add that too your cabinet cost
goto this place in denver: home clearance center the quality of the cabinets is off the charts and the price is great
explain what you just said there in terms an idiot can understandQuote:
Originally Posted by mogul5480
thanks
^^^What he means is that in the construction industry, there is any an amazing opportunity for [designers/architects/generals/subs/suppliers/inspectors] to blow smoke up your ass and take the customers money without them even knowing it. Honestly, the customers that are posturing and come of like they know everything [watch too much HGTV] are usually the ones that get fucked the hardest.
The reason for this is two fold. One, they are too pompous to realize that they don't know what they are talking about and can only imagine that they make the best of decisions. Two, their arrogance is so annoying that nobody feels bad about taking there money.
Trust is earned. I don't work for people that don't trust me or people I don't trust. Part of my job is to develop trust. Anytime you deal with someone in the construction industry, ask them how they make money. If they are hesitant to explain it too you, you are probably getting rolled.
Take electricians for example, on a T&M job they'll make their hourly obviously. But how much are they marking up there materials? Are they charging you $50 for a remodel can that you can get from HD for $20.
It's not wrong to make a markup on materials but, in my opinion, not disclosing it and risking being called out on it erodes trust. On the other hand, someone wants a fixed price bid for an undefined scope of work...fuckem'. Take every penny they got.
I can't speak too much regarding Ikea cabs other than to say budget for building the boxes if they are flat pack.
I'm 99% sure I've given cabinet advice in this thread somewhere else. Random thoughts:
a. For those on a budget, focus on door and draw fronts. If anyone comes over to your house, looks in your cabs and says, "I can't believe you don't have dove tail draws and full plywood boxes" tell them to get fucked, leave and find new friends.
b. Good cabinet suppliers include site visit and design in their price.
c. In terms of livability, things like roll out trays, full extension slides, soft close, full height pantries, refrigerator panels etc. do make a difference. Weather they are "worth it" is personal opinion.
d. Cabinets are not "cost plus" pricing. As frustrating as it is, you have to accept it. There is no reason that full overlay doors cost more than standard overlay but they do.
e. When you shop cabinets, be clear with the sales person that you are "price shopping cabinets". Find out from your wife what features are non-negotiable. Find cabinet lines that have these features. Get a price for say a SB30, DB18 and a full height pantry with roll-outs. Do this at a handle of places to get relative value.
f. Don't put the micro over the range. Get a hood and put the micro on a shelf. So much of a better look.
g. Don't let your cabinet supplier provide the install. They'll just get some hack subs that get $25 a box. The install will suck.
I hope your interior finishes are acceptable to you. Ask you tile guy what warranty he is gonna provide for cracked tiles, poorly bonded thinset and the waterproofing on the shower.
i'm not a city contractor but the way in have been explained to me is that the the best tradesman (trim carpenters, tile installers, etc.) are specialists, keep a full schedule and make bank. The best money I've ever made (in the trades) is as a subcontract cabinet installer and trim carpenter with two other guys working for me. The challenge is that there is not enough of that work in this honky tonk county to specialize in that.
Not just a better look, much better functionality. The vent fans in microwaves are pitifully weak and the microwave doesn't have the coverage of a hood to suck up smoke, so you basically can't cook anything that generates any smoke without setting off fire alarms. That means that you can't do a good sear on a steak in a cast iron pan, roast a butterflied chicken at 500 degrees, stir fry at super high heat, etc. Trust me, I speak from experience - if I could change one thing about my kitchen, it would be to get rid of the microwave and put a real hood over my cooktop.Quote:
Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles
In Grand County USA we don't have to vent to the exterior so I spec recirc hood kits 99% of the time. They actually work better in cold weather specially is the alternative is long vent runs.
Don't get me started on hardwired interlock smokies and CO detectors. I see so many of those beat of the ceiling with a broom and thrown out the window of the condo in the middle of the night. They can be such a nightmare to trouble shoot and the BRK ones only last about 5 years.
Yes, the finishes are acceptable to us. They look great, just have some imperfections. We don't have a "tile guy", it was all done by our GC (or his employees). Which kinda goes to the second paragraph quoted, we got what we paid for. And I don't mean that in a bad way. We chose the guy who was affordable; the guy charging twice as much would have had every last detail perfect (I assume). We paid for the workmanlike job from a non-specialist, and that's what we got.Quote:
Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles
And his warranty is 3 years from install.
we were just forced to install those because of code. Hope I'm not doing what you describe, the thought has occurred to me about what to do if a malfunction, since you can't just pull the battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles
We just put hardwired Nest Protects in our house. Pricy and don't last any longer than standard smokes but they talk flawlessly, can give you status updates on Android/IOS, and have cool LED motion activated night lights that are really convenient at night.Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno
Definitely not high end (the project I referenced). We did simple Black Pearl granite for a big kitchen. $2500 installed with Stone City in Denver. They were a bit sketchy but price was right and they fabbed and installed in a couple days.Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno
We've also used Moros Fabrication in Boulder. Big selection of remnants that can save you big over picking slabs at the stone warehouses off I70 near the airport.
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by ski-wpk
2 random remodel thoughts
I hate particle board cabinets. That said, our house came with cheap particle board kitchen cabinets circa 1976. I refaced the based with solid cherry and replaced all the shelves with drawers. (I replaced the wall cabinets with plywood--less work than refacing.) Despite major flooding from a broken pipe and other more minor flooding, the base cabinets are fine, although the particle board on the floor was rotted and had to be ripped out. Still, for new cabinets I would go with plywood in a house I planned to stay in, just because.
Any time you have a wall open, take pictures. You never know when you might need to know where a pipe, wire, duct, or blocking is.
x2 on taking pics of open walls. I have probably 300 photos of our current house pre-drywall. Hugely helpful.