Printable View
I've got a pair of B3's that were mounted for Rossi 140s, but the bindings were removed before I received them. I have a pair of Rossi 140s (same hole pattern) and was wondering if it's stable enough to remount in the same holes so long as I glop a bit of glue in there as usual. The hole pattern as of now is proper to accomodate my boot as well.
By the way, I used the search function, but didn't find exactly what I needed, so still feel free to hassel me about it...;)
Thanks!
ya go for it
If the holes are intact, I would just prolly mount 'em at the same holes. But then again mebbe I'm not skiing as hard as you guys.
OK.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicious
Hassel is spelled Hassle.
Unless you want to be David Hassel-Hoffed. Which is not very pleasant.
I actually spelled it that way just to see if anyone mentioned the man, the myth, the legend. Good work!Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
i would jam some steel wool in all the holes, and be sure to use a screwdriver, not a power tool. other than that, worst comes to worst, you'll spin a bunch of holes and have to get 'em re-mounted.
$0.02... Kinda new to this stuff but slow cure (12-24 hr) epoxy and a little tear of fine steel wool is pretty popular in the forums when holes are suspect. Can't do any harm.
other then you might not be able to remove the bindings ever ......Quote:
Originally Posted by lexpowers
but yes if that is the last binding that this ski will ever see
Old wives tale.Quote:
Originally Posted by mntlion
I have removed several epoxied tele bindings.
If it is really stuck, for some reason, you can use a soldering iron or other hot piece of metal to heat the screw. I have never had to resort to this trick.
Also, epoxy and foam core skis are not a good combo.
For wood core skis, wood glue is great. It soaks into the wood fibers a bit and strengthens them, as well as lubing and sealing things.
wood glue is to seal the hole, it is not structural... epoxy will keep the screws from backing out a bit better, but honestly, when does this ever happen if properly torqued to begin with - this is not the case in a rip-out, which generally happens when there is not proper thread depth, or spun screws.
also, DO NOT EVER EPOXY FOAM CORE SKIS
Where were you 4 years ago when I epoxied tele binders to Line Dragons?Quote:
Originally Posted by marshalolson
:rolleyes:
From my experience you will only face negative side effect of epoxy/foam core if you are using a solvent/petrol distillate based epoxy or glue. You will be turning your foam cores into napalm. If you go with a non reactive epoxy you should be fine.
i've had too many binding screws rust with a generous amount of wood glue applied. from now on i'm going epoxy. lou's blog mentions the 5min epoxy for binding screws. i've always used slow cure but whatever works.Quote:
Originally Posted by marshalolson
the captain seems to have the right idea about epoxy on foam cores:
foam core ski study-- http://www.wildsnow.com/backcountry-...011-epoxy.html
hey capt, what's the best way to tell if you've got a non-reactive epoxy?