Check Out Our Shop
Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Remount, same holes ok?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Radville
    Posts
    3,328

    Remount, same holes ok?

    I've got a pair of B3's that were mounted for Rossi 140s, but the bindings were removed before I received them. I have a pair of Rossi 140s (same hole pattern) and was wondering if it's stable enough to remount in the same holes so long as I glop a bit of glue in there as usual. The hole pattern as of now is proper to accomodate my boot as well.

    By the way, I used the search function, but didn't find exactly what I needed, so still feel free to hassel me about it...

    Thanks!
    I've got more suits than Liberace, but less than Eastvailhucker.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,524
    ya go for it

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    HELLsinki, Finland
    Posts
    3,683
    If the holes are intact, I would just prolly mount 'em at the same holes. But then again mebbe I'm not skiing as hard as you guys.
    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier
    You should post naked pictures of this godless heathen.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Yonder
    Posts
    22,532
    Quote Originally Posted by Vicious
    feel free to hassel me!
    OK.

    Hassel is spelled Hassle.

    Unless you want to be David Hassel-Hoffed. Which is not very pleasant.
    Kill all the telemarkers
    But they’ll put us in jail if we kill all the telemarkers
    Telemarketers! Kill the telemarketers!
    Oh we can do that. We don’t even need a reason

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Radville
    Posts
    3,328
    Quote Originally Posted by Core Shot
    OK.

    Hassel is spelled Hassle.

    Unless you want to be David Hassel-Hoffed. Which is not very pleasant.
    I actually spelled it that way just to see if anyone mentioned the man, the myth, the legend. Good work!
    Last edited by Vicious; 11-27-2005 at 12:33 PM.
    I've got more suits than Liberace, but less than Eastvailhucker.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    retired
    Posts
    12,456
    i would jam some steel wool in all the holes, and be sure to use a screwdriver, not a power tool. other than that, worst comes to worst, you'll spin a bunch of holes and have to get 'em re-mounted.
    go for rob

    www.dpsskis.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Sierras
    Posts
    120

    Cool

    $0.02... Kinda new to this stuff but slow cure (12-24 hr) epoxy and a little tear of fine steel wool is pretty popular in the forums when holes are suspect. Can't do any harm.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,524
    Quote Originally Posted by lexpowers
    Can't do any harm.
    other then you might not be able to remove the bindings ever ......


    but yes if that is the last binding that this ski will ever see

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Yonder
    Posts
    22,532
    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion
    other then you might not be able to remove the bindings ever ......
    Old wives tale.
    I have removed several epoxied tele bindings.

    If it is really stuck, for some reason, you can use a soldering iron or other hot piece of metal to heat the screw. I have never had to resort to this trick.

    Also, epoxy and foam core skis are not a good combo.

    For wood core skis, wood glue is great. It soaks into the wood fibers a bit and strengthens them, as well as lubing and sealing things.
    Kill all the telemarkers
    But they’ll put us in jail if we kill all the telemarkers
    Telemarketers! Kill the telemarketers!
    Oh we can do that. We don’t even need a reason

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    retired
    Posts
    12,456
    wood glue is to seal the hole, it is not structural... epoxy will keep the screws from backing out a bit better, but honestly, when does this ever happen if properly torqued to begin with - this is not the case in a rip-out, which generally happens when there is not proper thread depth, or spun screws.

    also, DO NOT EVER EPOXY FOAM CORE SKIS
    go for rob

    www.dpsskis.com

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Peach Pantsuit
    Posts
    1,053
    Quote Originally Posted by marshalolson

    also, DO NOT EVER EPOXY FOAM CORE SKIS
    Where were you 4 years ago when I epoxied tele binders to Line Dragons?


  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    16
    From my experience you will only face negative side effect of epoxy/foam core if you are using a solvent/petrol distillate based epoxy or glue. You will be turning your foam cores into napalm. If you go with a non reactive epoxy you should be fine.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    not far from snowbird
    Posts
    2,244
    Quote Originally Posted by marshalolson
    wood glue is to seal the hole, it is not structural... epoxy will keep the screws from backing out a bit better, but honestly, when does this ever happen if properly torqued to begin with - this is not the case in a rip-out, which generally happens when there is not proper thread depth, or spun screws.

    also, DO NOT EVER EPOXY FOAM CORE SKIS
    i've had too many binding screws rust with a generous amount of wood glue applied. from now on i'm going epoxy. lou's blog mentions the 5min epoxy for binding screws. i've always used slow cure but whatever works.

    the captain seems to have the right idea about epoxy on foam cores:
    foam core ski study-- http://www.wildsnow.com/backcountry-...011-epoxy.html

    hey capt, what's the best way to tell if you've got a non-reactive epoxy?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •