CRAP I WANNA SURF

Blog time, bitches.

I'm finally in decent shape for me. Used as motivation a session I had in the spring where I could only shralp for 30 minutes, then half-assed it for another hour or so because I could barely paddle.

The waves were so sweet that day: shoulder-high, clean, warm clear water. Man I was bummed I was too fat and sorry to take part.

I vowed never again, and since have dropped 25 pounds to a svelte 170. Size 36 to 32. My sexiness rivals Punani's -- I'm way harier, and therefore more macho.

Aaaaaanyhoo...surfed Bill swell all day with no fatigue or soreness. Shalped Danny a couple weeks later and was tired and sore but raged much harder. With Bill I was picking waves; Danny was so good and clean I could take off on everything, and did.

Since then we haven't had much. One good mini-swell, then junk. Waves too small to surf, too big to fish.

Stuff on the horizon and I am ready to get after it. Even if it's wind-chop. Mmm, that chunky junk hittin' right in the trunk.

I got desires.

Guess I shouldn't complain, but my story sounds much like yours. Bleak west coast summer. Got fat, working my way back and finally scored the first winter swell of the season last Thursday/Friday. When the game is on and your fit enough to play, there really isn't much better, but 5000 vert of untracked pow.

Fuck man. I'm in shape and there has been surf bit my new job makes it real difficultto get I this time of year. Weekend comes a d either the swell drops or the winds screw it up or both.

I shredded mini-pipe over the weekend. 3 feet, peeling with offshore wind and breaking in about 6 inches of water. It was gnarly, man (if you were a gi-joe).

I did take the 3-year-old out on a bodyboard later. She'd get all the way up front, I'd push us into waves and we'd scoot down the line, keeping us right in front of the curl. I think we almost got barreled :)

I told her to look down the line at the wave rising up.

"Did you see it?"

"Like a wall, daddy."

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jayfrizzo

I shredded mini-pipe over the weekend. 3 feet, peeling with offshore wind and breaking in about 6 inches of water. It was gnarly, man (if you were a gi-joe).

I did take the 3-year-old out on a bodyboard later. She'd get all the way up front, I'd push us into waves and we'd scoot down the line, keeping us right in front of the curl. I think we almost got barreled :)

I told her to look down the line at the wave rising up.

"Did you see it?"

"Like a wall, daddy."

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Nice, I have lots of pictures of those days with my girls too. Enjoy them while they are young buddy, as at 13, my oldest went bonkers for about 8 years. Nearly gave me a heart attack.

Surf has been crap since Saturday, but a swell is forecasted for Friday and this is my 3rd week in the gym. My strength is coming back and I have lost 6 pds:rolleyes2 Only 20 to go by end of December.