CRAP I WANNA SURF

[jayfrizzo]

Blog time, bitches.

I'm finally in decent shape for me. Used as motivation a session I had in the spring where I could only shralp for 30 minutes, then half-assed it for another hour or so because I could barely paddle.

The waves were so sweet that day: shoulder-high, clean, warm clear water. Man I was bummed I was too fat and sorry to take part.

I vowed never again, and since have dropped 25 pounds to a svelte 170. Size 36 to 32. My sexiness rivals Punani's -- I'm way harier, and therefore more macho.

Aaaaaanyhoo...surfed Bill swell all day with no fatigue or soreness. Shalped Danny a couple weeks later and was tired and sore but raged much harder. With Bill I was picking waves; Danny was so good and clean I could take off on everything, and did.

Since then we haven't had much. One good mini-swell, then junk. Waves too small to surf, too big to fish.

Stuff on the horizon and I am ready to get after it. Even if it's wind-chop. Mmm, that chunky junk hittin' right in the trunk.

I got desires.

[liv2ski]

Guess I shouldn't complain, but my story sounds much like yours. Bleak west coast summer. Got fat, working my way back and finally scored the first winter swell of the season last Thursday/Friday. When the game is on and your fit enough to play, there really isn't much better, but 5000 vert of untracked pow.

[Ottime]

Fuck man. I'm in shape and there has been surf bit my new job makes it real difficultto get I this time of year. Weekend comes a d either the swell drops or the winds screw it up or both.

[jayfrizzo]

I shredded mini-pipe over the weekend. 3 feet, peeling with offshore wind and breaking in about 6 inches of water. It was gnarly, man (if you were a gi-joe).

I did take the 3-year-old out on a bodyboard later. She'd get all the way up front, I'd push us into waves and we'd scoot down the line, keeping us right in front of the curl. I think we almost got barreled

I told her to look down the line at the wave rising up.

"Did you see it?"

"Like a wall, daddy."

[liv2ski]

I shredded mini-pipe over the weekend. 3 feet, peeling with offshore wind and breaking in about 6 inches of water. It was gnarly, man (if you were a gi-joe).

I did take the 3-year-old out on a bodyboard later. She'd get all the way up front, I'd push us into waves and we'd scoot down the line, keeping us right in front of the curl. I think we almost got barreled

I told her to look down the line at the wave rising up.

"Did you see it?"

"Like a wall, daddy."

Nice, I have lots of pictures of those days with my girls too. Enjoy them while they are young buddy, as at 13, my oldest went bonkers for about 8 years. Nearly gave me a heart attack.

Surf has been crap since Saturday, but a swell is forecasted for Friday and this is my 3rd week in the gym. My strength is coming back and I have lost 6 pds Only 20 to go by end of December.