Ask the experts

[ddocky]

How do you dry the inside of somewhat thick thinsulate gloves? No leather present.

Hand sweat weirds me out as it is and these things are like sponges. Please help me before I spawn the next pandemic in them.

If you don't want to buy a boot/glove dryer, you can try putting them on top of your water heater overnight.

[Tailwind]

The complete bike pricing is also impressive on the SP3.

It’s an extra $2600 over the frame but you get a solid build that really doesn’t leave much to be desired. I’m not in the new bike market but I’m sorely tempted by an Arrival 170 and Arrival 140 combo. I did help a buddy order a new wheelset (boost thank goodness) to get some business their way.

Superboost fans can put their money where their mouth is. Smoking deals on WAO Arrival 152 right now. $3440 for the frame + shock, and they're throwing in a free lyrik.

https://www.weareonecomposites.com/e...val-frame-only

[jm2e]

1up Rack Question.
Anyone ever modify the notch stops on their rack?
Typically store mine at “half mast” because the fully up position blocks the tailgate and inevitably will smack the shit out of it a few times.
Half mast looks less than awesome though. Like walking around with you fly open.

I’m thinking about grinding a little seat between the two notches. There’s not enough metal in there to do a full proper notch like the original ones, so it might not hold.

Ideal angle (tailgate just barely clears)

@Half Mast


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[SchralphMacchio]

Questions:
This is the 2” SuperDuty shank?
What’s the tongue weight rating of your receiver?
How much slack do you have in the locking pin slot, would there be room to just back out the shank until the locking pin stops it, and then ratchet it down?

Thoughts:
With the rack upright you don’t have much torque load, so a small groove seat might hold reasonably, at least until you smash a speed bump or pothole and your suspension loads up some rapid G forces. At least you wouldn’t be grossly compromising the load bearing capacity of the rack as any modifications above the existing notch channels will effectively experience zero tensile force or strain when the rack is loaded. The nice thing about 1Up is that they sell individual spare parts, including the shank assembly … they may be willing to just sell the notched pivot supports if you find this totally fucks up your rack … I would recommend investigate spare parts availability and cost before embarking on such a garage project. If parts are available and within my cost of fucking up tolerance, then go for it!

[climberevan]

You could also make a new piece with a notch where you want it and attach it to the side of the existing plate after completely grinding out the divider between notches. You could make this piece out of steel (3/16 would be more than strong enough) or aluminum depending on your capabilities. I'd drill & tap 5mm threads into the existing plate on either side to attach your new plate.

Or just leave it in the lower of the existing notches and spend your time riding instead...

[toast2266]

It doesn't look like there's enough metal in between the notches to grind anything that's going to hold. Also worth noting that grinding aluminum is kind of a pain in the ass.

I think climberevan's idea seems like the cleanest and most effective. Shouldn't be terribly difficult either.

[jm2e]

Or just leave it in the lower of the existing notches and spend your time riding instead...

This is more likely, but I’ll certainly obsess over it too.
Will post up if I do anything.




Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Abies]

Superboost fans can put their money where their mouth is. Smoking deals on WAO Arrival 152 right now. $3440 for the frame + shock, and they're throwing in a free lyrik.

https://www.weareonecomposites.com/e...val-frame-only

Not a WAO but I’ve been wanting a hardtail for riding in my new zone and the prices on Knolly Tyaughtons are insane right now, just picked one up. Not in the super boost fan club, more in the “not weird enough to keep me from buying a bike” club lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SchralphMacchio]

Niiiiice, $2200 for a GX build w Grip2 36 is damn sweet!

I wouldn’t mind trying a 157mm hardtail either, without a rear linkage to absorb blows, changing the spoke angle may help when flying through rutted corners or landing at an angle?

But really I came here to post this: Tyaughton foot actuated dropper … Jerry or Jenius? I’m guessing that’s not a factory option!!!

[Abies]

LMAO I saw that picture too. That’s the sort of eccentric build on a promo picture you only get from a small “rider focused” company. Eat it, Specialized.

And yeah I got the GX build, seemed like smart money.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jm2e]

I’ve been thinking Knolly might be the next to fall.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Dantheman]

Foot-actuated dropper is some serious WTF.

[Dantheman]

Back onto the subject of 1Up, no BF sale is killing me.

[joetron]

OneUp or WAO? So many ones.
OneUp has a pretty sweet sale happening.

Edit: ahhhhh, 1Up racks, not OneUp components.

Domestic production likely means they aren’t sitting on a bunch of crap they over-ordered from Asian factories 2 years ago. That’s pretty sweet actually, but sorry you can’t grab a deal.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Dantheman]

Edit: ahhhhh, 1Up racks, not OneUp components.

Hah, yes, derp!

[singlesline]

1up Rack Question.
Anyone ever modify the notch stops on their rack?
Typically store mine at “half mast” because the fully up position blocks the tailgate and inevitably will smack the shit out of it a few times.
Half mast looks less than awesome though. Like walking around with you fly open.

I’m thinking about grinding a little seat between the two notches. There’s not enough metal in there to do a full proper notch like the original ones, so it might not hold.

Ideal angle (tailgate just barely clears)

@Half Mast


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

I’ve thought about cutting a slight notch just past the full upright. My wife’s Tiguan only needs the rack tilted back a couple degrees for the hatch to open.

Usually I just drive around with it not engaged in a notch and it never moves (worst case, it would make its way into the notch) but a little detent would be nice just so I know it is actually far enough back to clear the hatch.

[Touring_Sedan]

This is more likely, but I’ll certainly obsess over it too.
Will post up if I do anything.




Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

I imagine you wouldn't need much of a detent. Couldn't you use the "screw" that holds the locking bar in place to make sure it stays firmly in the detent?

[smmokan]

Back onto the subject of 1Up, no BF sale is killing me.

They never have sales, unfortunately. Even their industry "pro deals" are pretty miniscule.

[AlpiNord]

1up Rack Question.
Anyone ever modify the notch stops on their rack?
Typically store mine at “half mast” because the fully up position blocks the tailgate and inevitably will smack the shit out of it a few times.
Half mast looks less than awesome though. Like walking around with you fly open.

I’m thinking about grinding a little seat between the two notches. There’s not enough metal in there to do a full proper notch like the original ones, so it might not hold.

Ideal angle (tailgate just barely clears)

@Half Mast


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Won’t simply sliding the hitch out of the receiver a bit give you the clearance? I’ve had good luck over the years doing that for various vehicles. An extender is another option.

This year, I added the rackattack to the mix which is great for traveling, especially w/ebikes. I added a sheet metal shim on the underside to reduce movement. That might also be helpful if you can get clearance moving the rack or an extender.


Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums

[jackstraw]

Back onto the subject of 1Up, no BF sale is killing me.

I bought mine years ago before Christmas and got a 1up tee shirt for free! [emoji16]
I don't mind paying full price for that rack. It hasn't come off my car except for when I've bought a new car and it's been bomber.

[jm2e]

This is how far out it needs to be for the tailgate to clear in the fully upright position. Not gonna work for me. I’d rather it be more solid since I’m either hauling DH bikes or e-bikes. And being solid as a fucking rock is one of the hallmarks of a 1up rack.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[AlpiNord]

You might at least try an extender before cannibalizing the holder.

https://1up-usa.com/product/2-hitch-extender


Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums

[Eluder]

Maybe see if they will make one?

[SchralphMacchio]

This is how far out it needs to be for the tailgate to clear in the fully upright position. Not gonna work for me. I’d rather it be more solid since I’m either hauling DH bikes or e-bikes. And being solid as a fucking rock is one of the hallmarks of a 1up rack.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

The current Super Duty and Heavy Duty shank assembly now both have a grooved shank that supports a locking hitch pin, so you no longer have to use the super old school velcro backup strap. You’d be surprised how far you can pull the shank back with the hitch pin engaged. I wouldn’t haul 4 bikes with the shank locked in the most outward position, but 2 DH or eBikes might not be an issue.

So if you really wanted to go nuts, you could buy yourself a new shank assembly, back it out and try it, if that doesn’t work you can notch out the side supports of your old shank assembly, and if that somehow fucks anything up you can revert to the new side supports.

[El Chupacabra]

Not a WAO but I’ve been wanting a hardtail for riding in my new zone and the prices on Knolly Tyaughtons are insane right now, just picked one up. Not in the super boost fan club, more in the “not weird enough to keep me from buying a bike” club lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Which wheelset did your Knolly come with? Website says either Spank or a Race Face Aeffect.