Ask the experts

**toast2266** · 12-03-2022, 07:38 PM

Originally Posted by HAB

The ring around the bolt doesn't look like it has any tool interface to install it. Those might need a crank extractor.

Ah, yeah, you're right. I didn't think RF had made a non self extracting crank in a long time. But maybe I'm wrong. But regardless, yeah, looks like it needs an extractor tool.

**HAB** · 12-03-2022, 08:31 PM

Originally Posted by toast2266

Ah, yeah, you're right. I didn't think RF had made a non self extracting crank in a long time. But maybe I'm wrong. But regardless, yeah, looks like it needs an extractor tool.

Yeah, news to me too but that's what it looks like.

**Spencer123** · 12-03-2022, 08:49 PM

My wifes 5010 has a Raceface crank that looks identical that requires a crank puller.... but it is a 2018 vintage.

**Phall** · 12-03-2022, 08:53 PM

Rf made the turbine and aeffect in both cinch and non-cinch (requiring the puller) for a few years. Only way of really telling is by attempting to remove as far as I can tell

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**g_man80** · 12-03-2022, 08:58 PM

Yeah, the new’ish RF Aeffect cranks are not self extracting. I think the older Aeffects were. If no 10mm outer cap/bolt, then not s.e. Here’s a YouTube video:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0KXv9CtoBcE

**McShortyShorts** · 12-03-2022, 09:46 PM

Originally Posted by toast2266

Is the crown race one of the split ones that just slides on easily? I've had issues with those sometimes.

Yes, which was a bit surprising. I didn't know they made slotted ones. If that is the cause of my problems it will be replaced soon anyway

**jackstraw** · 12-04-2022, 06:01 AM

^thank you everyone. Definitely more of a pia for me. Need more tools. This may be a support the local lbs job as I'm really questioning how the bash guard will attach. Doesn't look like there is room based on that video. Idk

**XXX-er** · 12-04-2022, 11:29 AM

when I swapped the chain ring (30 to 28) on my Yeti I got the Affect crank off by holding the bike off the floor by the chainring and gently tapping the spindle with a ballpeen, it didn't take much, kinda ghetto but it worked and no damage to spindle

I thot the Race face affect product was a pretty good one

**Eluder** · 12-05-2022, 11:32 PM

You can get a self extracting bolt to install on those Race Face cranks... I cant remember which one fits anymore but I think Its the small one that has the white washer.

https://www.performancebike.com/race...f30019/p308671
https://www.performancebike.com/race...f30018/p308672

**jm2e** · 12-07-2022, 12:22 AM

Who knows about experimenting with loose-ish spoke tension?
My stiff as fuck unforgiving Reynolds BK (Black Label) wheels have had 4 broken spokes in 2 seasons, which has me wondering if the stiffness is contributory.
So this round of repair, I’ve detensioned the whole thing. As I build it back up, I’m wondering if a less stiff average tension is worth trying.
In the past I’ve always tried to get pretty close to max tension for my rim/spoke combo.

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**toast2266** · 12-07-2022, 08:01 AM

Originally Posted by jm2e

Who knows about experimenting with loose-ish spoke tension?
My stiff as fuck unforgiving Reynolds BK (Black Label) wheels have had 4 broken spokes in 2 seasons, which has me wondering if the stiffness is contributory.
So this round of repair, I’ve detensioned the whole thing. As I build it back up, I’m wondering if a less stiff average tension is worth trying.
In the past I’ve always tried to get pretty close to max tension for my rim/spoke combo.

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Under tensioned wheels are going to break more spokes, more quickly. When loaded, the spokes will go completely slack and then snap back to tension, which puts a ton of stress on them. Running higher tension keeps them from going slack, which actually reduces stress / fatigue.

If you want to break less spokes, relace it with something thicker.

**beaterdit** · 12-10-2022, 05:16 PM

Yeah I had those wheels and I believe they use Sapim C-Xrays. They make a light wheel but maybe too light for that application.

**carlh** · 12-13-2022, 09:51 PM

I need help with valuing an older bike I am looking to buy from a friend. It is a 2014 Raleigh Tamland steel gravel bike. 2x10 105 with mechanical discs and stock parts but potentially nicer wheels probably in good shape since he didn’t ride it much. These were $1500 new and he bought it on a team deal for less. Looking to use it as a commuter with a rack and fenders since my crux doesn’t have mounts.
Bicycle blue book says $400 but that seems crazy low for the market here. I want to give him a fair price but am also a cheap ass and he’s too lazy to sell it to anyone else. Thoughts?

**El Chupacabra** · 12-13-2022, 09:55 PM

Originally Posted by carlh

I need help with valuing an older bike I am looking to buy from a friend. It is a 2014 Raleigh Tamland steel gravel bike. 2x10 105 with mechanical discs and stock parts but potentially nicer wheels probably in good shape since he didn’t ride it much. These were $1500 new and he bought it on a team deal for less. Looking to use it as a commuter with a rack and fenders since my crux doesn’t have mounts.
Bicycle blue book says $400 but that seems crazy low for the market here. I want to give him a fair price but am also a cheap ass and he’s too lazy to sell it to anyone else. Thoughts?

$700? Assuming good condition all around.

**rideit** · 12-13-2022, 10:25 PM

Any of you running 2.3mm (thickness) Rotors with Shimano brakes?
Gonna go ahead and try it, but I have read it might be a bit too thick.

(I hear that all the time. Yup, sure I do)

**evdog** · 12-14-2022, 02:23 PM

Market for used bikes seems to have dropped off a cliff the last few months. Sold a mojo3 recently. Despite very decent price only had 2 legit inquiries about it in a month, ended up settling on 25% off already good price. By contrast end of 2020 I sold two 10 yr old MTBs, ibis mojo sl and a Knolly. Asked what I thought was on the high side and got a couple dozen emails within a day. Both went for asking price. Bottom line is I'd say the KBB price is fair these days, if buddy is fine with it.

**jackstraw** · 12-14-2022, 02:39 PM

I was just at a lbs and sales are way off, but more "normal" looking back pre-covid. It's been such a shitshow they were saying they don't know how anyone in town doesn't have a new bike or two. They expect the used bike market to be flooded come spring. Everyone that bought thought riding a bike would be a great idea...until they realized it actually takes effort. [emoji16]

**buttahflake** · 12-14-2022, 03:17 PM

Where is the best place to score a used bike? I’d love to grab something high end from spesh or trek. Tarmac SL7 or Aethos or an Emonda in a 54, will not buy anything from pros closet.
Go!

**jm2e** · 12-14-2022, 04:40 PM

Literally anywhere right now. If it doesn’t sell right away, lowball that shit. If the seller thinks it’s still 2021, walk away and try the next one.

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**Dumbest Known Time** · 12-14-2022, 10:50 PM

I'm in the early stages of day dreaming up a winter frankenbike project. The current pipedream is a factory direct chinese carbon hardtail frame, run rigid and singlespeed. Would be used for mashing on a commute and some occasional trail use. However I kind of would like to have a higher gear ratio for fast pavement riding and a lower one for trails.

A) Would a single cog, chain tensioner and double chainring get the job done relatively smoothly?
B) Am I an idiot? Have I just combined the worst parts of singlespeed and geared bikes?

**toast2266** · 12-15-2022, 12:15 AM

Originally Posted by Dumbest Known Time

I'm in the early stages of day dreaming up a winter frankenbike project. The current pipedream is a factory direct chinese carbon hardtail frame, run rigid and singlespeed. Would be used for mashing on a commute and some occasional trail use. However I kind of would like to have a higher gear ratio for fast pavement riding and a lower one for trails.

A) Would a single cog, chain tensioner and double chainring get the job done relatively smoothly?
B) Am I an idiot? Have I just combined the worst parts of singlespeed and geared bikes?

You could just put a regular drivetrain on and promise yourself not to shift.

**Supermoon** · 12-15-2022, 12:37 AM

Originally Posted by Dumbest Known Time

I'm in the early stages of day dreaming up a winter frankenbike project. The current pipedream is a factory direct chinese carbon hardtail frame, run rigid and singlespeed. Would be used for mashing on a commute and some occasional trail use. However I kind of would like to have a higher gear ratio for fast pavement riding and a lower one for trails.

A) Would a single cog, chain tensioner and double chainring get the job done relatively smoothly?
B) Am I an idiot? Have I just combined the worst parts of singlespeed and geared bikes?

If you have to pick one derailleur and you pick the front there’s something wrong with you. [emoji12]

**geomorph** · 12-15-2022, 08:25 AM

I used to have a bike set up like that with no derailleurs or chain tensioner. If I remember correctly you need to have the same number of teeth between both combos front and back. I did it with horizontal dropout and had to undo those every time I wanted to switch between trail and street mode but it would be easier with a chain tensioner. Search "dinglespeed", it was a thing at one time.