Ask the experts

[alpinevibes]

My road bike might be in the shop for awhile, so I'm kicking the tires on a backup / spare and found this classic on our local Craigslist:
https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/...358956847.html

Attachment 382131

Not something I would usually consider, but this would just be to goof around; I'd probably just ride it for a few weeks and then sell it once my bike is out of the shop.

Has anyone ever ridden one? It must be about 30 years old, any concerns about the carbon beam failing?

I worked at a shop in the mid 2000s that was the main Softride dealer/hub in Seattle. I even raced a tri on one (650c wheels with 20/21c tires and aero bars…).

I think the beam should be fine but that does look like a mid-late 90s model, so the whole thing deserves a good check. They’re comfortable but can be a bit bobby. Def a different feel when you first start riding it.

[NuMexJoe]

Rode it this afternoon- pretty sweet overall ride. The climb is beautiful through the aspens and into the alpine, and is pretty mellow overall with a handful of short punchy sections. We climbed at a pretty easy pace and it was probably 1:30-1:40 to the top. Beautiful lake up top beneath Bennett Peak. The DH is fast and not all that techy other than a few sniper rocks and short rock garden sections... I think all told it was 12.5 miles with 2500+ vert. Definitely worth doing if you're in the area.

Thanks for that TR. I'm going to add it to the list next time I head to Penitente Canyon, and skip Pronghorn (it was pretty meh).

[smmokan]

Did you climb Middle and descend West or vice versa?
I think I’m gonna hit this tomorrow on the way back from Denver.


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Climbed Middle and then came back down the way we climbed. I looked on the TF ride logs and most people did it that way, vs climbing up the dirt road and then descending Middle Frisco. We passed two groups of hikers near the bottom, but then didn't see another person on the trail the rest of the day.

[joetron]

Copy that. Gracias!


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[dan_pdx]

I had a Burley softride tandem for a little while, then sold it last year because Mrs C wouldn't ride it. It had the same softride beam as that bike. I looked into whether the beam was a problem point -- IIRC what I found said the beam is fine, but the saddle attachment hardware (seatpost head, only w/o a post) was problematic, and difficult to find replacement parts if any of that hardware broke.

Quality beta, thanks!

[dan_pdx]

How many miles could you reasonably expect to get from a pressfit bottom bracket? At what point would you feel either the part or the install was questionable?

Totally hypothetical question, of course, but assume a road bike that doesn't get ridden in the rain - it's on the trainer in the winter and outside only when it's dry.

[Falcon3]

How many miles could you reasonably expect to get from a pressfit bottom bracket? At what point would you feel either the part or the install was questionable?

Totally hypothetical question, of course, but assume a road bike that doesn't get ridden in the rain - it's on the trainer in the winter and outside only when it's dry.

What BB, useage, and how many miles? Also what’s the issue with it?

In general I’d say multiple 1000’s of miles.

[dan_pdx]

What BB, useage, and how many miles? Also what’s the issue with it?

In general I’d say multiple 1000’s of miles.

I don't know the exact part, but Cannondale BB30 standard and FSA compatible. Usage - not sure what I can add beyond what I mentioned - it's in a road bike that is pretty pampered and only sees action on a trainer or outside on dry days. Issue is ticking, which has escalated to grinding. I've had 3 BBs in this bike (Cannondale CAAD10):
1: 5k miles (stock BB)
2: 500 miles (not a typo)
3: 2k miles

The 500 miles I figured for a bad part / bad install, but 2k miles I'm not sure. I took it to a local shop, explained the problem, and they said they'll take a close look and see if they can recommend a way to get more life from the next BB.

[GeorgiaSnow]

Which BBs after the stock one?

Edit: seems like you are saying standard cannondale replacement BBs?


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[dan_pdx]

Which BBs after the stock one?

Edit: seems like you are saying standard cannondale replacement BBs?


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Those replacements were done at various local shops and I don't actually know the specific part that was installed. I've been spoiled by the threaded BB on my commuter bike, which just keeps trucking and trucking - I can't remember the last time it needed to be replaced. Didn't realize that BB was something you needed to pay attention to, but apparently that was just blissful ignorance.

[Falcon3]

Yeah 500 is damn short for that kinda useage. Good thing is you got 2k out of the next one, that seems like pretty normal lifespan, maybe a little short.

I wonder if theres not a BB shell alignment issue, what material is the bike? I’ve had shops do a BB face to resolve issues like this before in steel and aluminum bikes.

[dan_pdx]

Yeah 500 is damn short for that kinda useage. Good thing is you got 2k out of the next one, that seems like pretty normal lifespan, maybe a little short.

I wonder if theres not a BB shell alignment issue, what material is the bike? I’ve had shops do a BB face to resolve issues like this before in steel and aluminum bikes.

It's an aluminum frame, and the shop did say they would take a close look at the frame to see if there was an issue there.

What are my options if I want to consistently get 5k miles out of my BB? I've seen some suggestions that FSA BBs suck, is there a better part I can use? If I replace the whole crankset to switch away from FSA, does that improve the outlook? (not out of the question, but not my first choice either).

[teledad]

I have over 5000 miles on a SRAM GXP Pressfit BB92. I think it might be the only part I haven't replaced on this bike. MTB so it sees plenty of abuse.

[JPaul]

What are my options if I want to consistently get 5k miles out of my BB? I've seen some suggestions that FSA BBs suck, is there a better part I can use? If I replace the whole crankset to switch away from FSA, does that improve the outlook? (not out of the question, but not my first choice either).

Like teledad, I'm happy to jinx myself and say that I have 4-5k on a SRAM Pressfit BB. Mine is an X9 PF30 in an XC frame from 2012. Mostly dry & super-dusty California miles, but it is still running smooth. By online reputation, I wouldn't think SRAM BBs are necessarily better than FSA, but you really need to get a BB that can last more than a season or two. Several bearing mfgs seem to have <$100 PF30 options.

If it is a BB/PF30 standard bottom bracket, you won't need to change cranks to move away from the FSA BB.

Finally, any chance the 500 miler was largely trainer miles? Combination of sweat dripping & poorly greased bearings might do that.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

My last press fit only lasted like 1000 miles in a Yeti SB150. Lower end shimano though and pretty hard dusty use. I put a fancy Kogel one in about 150 miles ago. Buttery.

[El Chupacabra]

If anyone needs this for future reference, standard hydraulic brake hose does fit a Reverb remote. Installed today, bled, seems fine.

[dan_pdx]

I have over 5000 miles on a SRAM GXP Pressfit BB92. I think it might be the only part I haven't replaced on this bike. MTB so it sees plenty of abuse.

Like teledad, I'm happy to jinx myself and say that I have 4-5k on a SRAM Pressfit BB. Mine is an X9 PF30 in an XC frame from 2012. Mostly dry & super-dusty California miles, but it is still running smooth. By online reputation, I wouldn't think SRAM BBs are necessarily better than FSA, but you really need to get a BB that can last more than a season or two. Several bearing mfgs seem to have <$100 PF30 options.

If it is a BB/PF30 standard bottom bracket, you won't need to change cranks to move away from the FSA BB.

Thanks guys, good to know - the mechanic said he'd give me a call to talk through options once they've had a look, so I'll keep SRAM in mind.

Finally, any chance the 500 miler was largely trainer miles? Combination of sweat dripping & poorly greased bearings might do that.

No, it was all outdoors. My trainer is in an unheated detached garage and I keep a towel nearby, so the bike doesn't get sweat dripped on it too much.

[funkendrenchman]

Any issues putting a star nut back in an EDC tapped steerer?

[Andeh]

Any issues putting a star nut back in an EDC tapped steerer?

I don't see why it wouldn't be fine. The threads are only like 10mm at most. You might want to oil/grease the threads first to help the star nut's "wings" slide over them a bit easier.

[MegaStoke]

Any issues putting a star nut back in an EDC tapped steerer?

I just did this yesterday, no issues. I was using an actual park tool star nut driver and not the ghetto method though, YMMV.

[Huskier]

2015 Pike --> 2021 Fox 36 in Grip2 trim: Worth it? The only gripes I have right now are a little sticktion and bob on coarse low speed tech and not being able to ratchet up compression for fear of losing high speed plushness/performance. I'm eying the dedicated hsc/lsc circuits + Kashima as the possible answer. That or not suck so bad.

Does having those dedicated circuits make a difference?

[HAB]

2015 Pike --> 2021 Fox 36 in Grip2 trim: Worth it? The only gripes I have right now are a little sticktion and bob on coarse low speed tech and not being able to ratchet up compression for fear of losing high speed plushness/performance. I'm eying the dedicated hsc/lsc circuits + Kashima as the possible answer. That or not suck so bad.

Does having those dedicated circuits make a difference?

Which Pike version? There's a difference between having separate adjusters and actually different damper architecture. E.g. with the current Pike, the Select+ is functionally the same damper as the Ultimate, but with the HSC factory set, rather than having a knob. The Select has the same adjustments as the Select+, but an entirely different (cheaper/worse) damper design.

[Huskier]

Which Pike version? There's a difference between having separate adjusters and actually different damper architecture. E.g. with the current Pike, the Select+ is functionally the same damper as the Ultimate, but with the HSC factory set, rather than having a knob. The Select has the same adjustments as the Select+, but an entirely different (cheaper/worse) damper design.

RC Solo Air...I think.

[Dantheman]

2015 Pike --> 2021 Fox 36 in Grip2 trim: Worth it? The only gripes I have right now are a little sticktion and bob on coarse low speed tech and not being able to ratchet up compression for fear of losing high speed plushness/performance. I'm eying the dedicated hsc/lsc circuits + Kashima as the possible answer. That or not suck so bad.

Does having those dedicated circuits make a difference?

2015 would be 100 mm spacing, right? Make sure your hub can take boost adapters before proceeding with a new fork.

The original Charger damper had some known reliability issues and it's probably due to be put out to pasture regardless. For a lot less than a new fork you could upgrade your current fork to the Charger 2.1 RCT3 damper (https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...1-a2-2014-2017) and Debonair spring (https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...-29-160mm-27-5). The spring is travel-specific so keep that in mind. Make sure you get the travel needed for A1-A2/2014-2017 27.5" models.

[jm2e]

2015 Pike --> 2021 Fox 36 in Grip2 trim: Worth it?

Yes.