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Thread: Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

  1. #676
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    Quote Originally Posted by shafty85 View Post
    Had a similar experience with ours. Turns out I needed this tool (had to ask a plumber friend to find this out). Comes with the faucet but I guess the original owners took it with them. Don’t know what brand you are going with, but perhaps they have something similar?

    https://www.moen.ca/products/Moen/Mo...on_tool/100110
    From the picture that tool is good for when the supply lines are disconnected, initial install, etc. I can but don't want to disconnect the supply lines, more tight tolerances. This is a 'tighten up the nut to setp the value stem from moving around on the cabinet' job.

    The other suggestion to replace with replace with proper basin nuts is a good suggestion. However it means I still have to loosen the tight nuts, only one loose nut prompted this whole project, and disconnect and reconnect the supply lines. All with that tight clearance that is the root cause of all this.

    A trip to Sears tomorrow and I may snag some helpful hand tools.
    “The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”

    - Winston Churchill, paraphrased.

  2. #677
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    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    Dubble post

  3. #678
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    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    We bought a 1921 craftsman in Seattle this year and the deck needs replaced. Would like to keep the original aesthetic of the home and debating between composite and wood. Opinions?

  4. #679
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    1000X Better Danno. The wood work around the fridge is pretty!

  5. #680
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    Quote Originally Posted by skialpy View Post
    We bought a 1921 craftsman in Seattle this year and the deck needs replaced. Would like to keep the original aesthetic of the home and debating between composite and 2x6 wood. Opinions?
    Get some tigerwood. It's hard as steel and you oil it vs stain. I built a rather large one at my parents place and it looks good. Granted their home is newer but it's still nice looking wood and not plastiboard... just my .02

  6. #681
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    Composite implies the least amount of lifetime maintenance, no staining or oiling, no mold, resists scratching (dogs claws, deck furniture, bike maintenance), light washing and it's good. You pay for this in higher initial cost of the material.
    “The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”

    - Winston Churchill, paraphrased.

  7. #682
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    Composite is like the surface of the sun when it’s hot out. And over the top expensive. I’d say stick with wood.

  8. #683
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    Is the current deck rotten or just old/rank looking ? It can be sanded and restained/oiled if it's not rotten. Post a pic for possible solutions.

  9. #684
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    even a deck made out of standard & better 2x6 will last a very long time for pretty fuckign cheap

    you can go over it once a year or 2 with a mop & Thompsons waterseal
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  10. #685
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    ...Thompsons waterseal


    Use Sikkens.

  11. #686
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nobody Famous View Post
    Composite implies the least amount of lifetime maintenance, no staining or oiling, no mold, resists scratching (dogs claws, deck furniture, bike maintenance), light washing and it's good. You pay for this in higher initial cost of the material.
    But would it look right on a craftsman? Wondering if anyone has strong opinions on maintaining originality and composite decks.

  12. #687
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    Looks like we need to turn the attic into a master bedroom pretty quickly, FIL shouldn't be on his own anymore. The house is a stout old bugger built in the late 1940's so not concerned about the structure but the attic is uninsulated and doesn't even have a real floor at the moment. We'll obviously need to add at least a few dormers and put in some stairs and probably at the very least a half bath. Is this something I need to get an architect or structural engineer or just go with a good contractors suggestions? We're also debating whether or not to go through the motions with the town or just deal with getting the CO after the fact.

    Thoughts...

  13. #688
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyoverland Captive View Post


    Use Sikkens.
    its cheap and you can use a mop
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  14. #689
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    Even at two hundred bucks a sheet I never want to do drywall again. Saved about six to eight grand doing it myself but like I said never again.

  15. #690
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    Sanding tonight. Painting tomorrow
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  16. #691
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Looks like we need to turn the attic into a master bedroom pretty quickly, FIL shouldn't be on his own anymore. The house is a stout old bugger built in the late 1940's so not concerned about the structure but the attic is uninsulated and doesn't even have a real floor at the moment. We'll obviously need to add at least a few dormers and put in some stairs and probably at the very least a half bath. Is this something I need to get an architect or structural engineer or just go with a good contractors suggestions? We're also debating whether or not to go through the motions with the town or just deal with getting the CO after the fact.

    Thoughts...
    Too much to truly itemize, but you will need an engineer + GC at the very least.
    Check with your local jurisdiction for attic conversion to living space requirements, if any...might need someone knowledgeable about providing legal living space (stair to code, reqd head hgts, egress windows, etc)

    If no legal stair exists, expect there to be a LOT of work that tracks down through your existing space:
    1) structural going all the way to the ground with new footings or pushing the loads into existing foundations/bearing walls. If no legal stair is there, the likelihood is that the framing was never sized for an occupied floor (ie, gotta re-frame). Also, new dormers may provoke re-framing depending on size. & an old house with new work might provoke seismic design to current code for at least the alteration.
    2) someone has to re-lay out the first level so that a stair can fit in reasonably -- they take up a more space than you think. (depends on your handiness with design stuff as to whether you get help)

    plumbing the upstairs...if somehow you can keep the existing framing by sistering to it, remember you will have to fit the waste line in somewhere and it might push down a soffit into the ceiling of the floor below. Plan where that might be up front.

    roof insulation: insulating existing rafters may be a difficult task if they are 2x4s -- spray foam may be your only option if head hgt doesn't allow you to furr it down




    also, if your dad needs supervision, putting him upstairs is likely not the best idea...too much fall potential & roof geometry might be hard for him to maneuver in


    [edit to add] it's not going to happen "pretty quickly"...gotta plan it, then price it, then actually do it...expect it to be months of time
    Last edited by acinpdx; 11-29-2017 at 07:40 PM.

  17. #692
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    Quote Originally Posted by skialpy View Post
    But would it look right on a craftsman? Wondering if anyone has strong opinions on maintaining originality and composite decks.
    don't be the guy that ruins it
    (if it's already ruined, go wild)

  18. #693
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Looks like we need to turn the attic into a master bedroom pretty quickly, FIL shouldn't be on his own anymore. The house is a stout old bugger built in the late 1940's so not concerned about the structure but the attic is uninsulated and doesn't even have a real floor at the moment. We'll obviously need to add at least a few dormers and put in some stairs and probably at the very least a half bath. Is this something I need to get an architect or structural engineer or just go with a good contractors suggestions? We're also debating whether or not to go through the motions with the town or just deal with getting the CO after the fact.

    Thoughts...
    AcinPDX said it in more words than I would have, but he is spot on. What your are proposing is a major remodel that some jurisdictions won't allow any more. Do you know for a fact that you have the allowable Floor Area to convert your attic to living space? That will be the first question, then as outlined by Acin, this is a major structural job that will definitely require an engineer.

    Don't start a project this big without a permit, any contractor that is willing to take on something of this magnitude without one is almost certainly a hack.

  19. #694
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    Quote Originally Posted by skialpy View Post
    But would it look right on a craftsman? Wondering if anyone has strong opinions on maintaining originality and composite decks.
    That would depend on a few factors. So no good answer here.

    Since you are even asking this question before going ahead I'd say get a plank or two with the understanding you can return them and see what they look like in place. My own opinion is when I've seen composite used like this the surface always had a subtle and slightly noticeable shine to it. And this odd tidbit, I've seen dogs that do not like the surface, this was on a raw timber texture application. It could have been the heat mentioned above.

    I assumed you mentioned composite because you're in Seattle, rainy and damp eight months of the year.
    “The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”

    - Winston Churchill, paraphrased.

  20. #695
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    Quote Originally Posted by skialpy View Post
    We bought a 1921 craftsman in Seattle this year and the deck needs replaced. Would like to keep the original aesthetic of the home and debating between composite and wood. Opinions?
    Both. Composite decking, and cedar everything else. Looks great on this 1907 house in South seattle.

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  21. #696
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    Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

    FIL has to replace his decking at the manufacturer’s expense because the trex disintegrated. It seems there’s some variability in the bonding of fibers and when it fails it’s nasty. His yard is gonna be full of little chunks when they take it up. At least when wood fails it’s biodegradable.

  22. #697
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    Quote Originally Posted by kai_ski View Post
    .... His yard is gonna be full of little chunks when they take it up. At least when wood fails it’s biodegradable.
    One or many drop cloths easily solve this. Even if they become caked in mud and you dispose of them at completion.

    BTW, i think any knowledgeable contractor should know this and should be ahead of the curve on it and prepared to handle. If the contractor resists, immediately get a new contractor. Better yet get agreement up front before any commitments are made.
    “The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”

    - Winston Churchill, paraphrased.

  23. #698
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    Quote Originally Posted by acinpdx View Post
    Too much to truly itemize, but you will need an engineer + GC at the very least.
    Check with your local jurisdiction for attic conversion to living space requirements, if any...might need someone knowledgeable about providing legal living space (stair to code, reqd head hgts, egress windows, etc)

    If no legal stair exists, expect there to be a LOT of work that tracks down through your existing space:
    1) structural going all the way to the ground with new footings or pushing the loads into existing foundations/bearing walls. If no legal stair is there, the likelihood is that the framing was never sized for an occupied floor (ie, gotta re-frame). Also, new dormers may provoke re-framing depending on size. & an old house with new work might provoke seismic design to current code for at least the alteration.
    2) someone has to re-lay out the first level so that a stair can fit in reasonably -- they take up a more space than you think. (depends on your handiness with design stuff as to whether you get help)

    plumbing the upstairs...if somehow you can keep the existing framing by sistering to it, remember you will have to fit the waste line in somewhere and it might push down a soffit into the ceiling of the floor below. Plan where that might be up front.

    roof insulation: insulating existing rafters may be a difficult task if they are 2x4s -- spray foam may be your only option if head hgt doesn't allow you to furr it down

    also, if your dad needs supervision, putting him upstairs is likely not the best idea...too much fall potential & roof geometry might be hard for him to maneuver in


    [edit to add] it's not going to happen "pretty quickly"...gotta plan it, then price it, then actually do it...expect it to be months of time
    I had a whole big reply typed up but had a connectivity bobble and lost it For the most part a lot of this shouldn't be a problem but you have given me some ideas for things I need to look into. Thanks.

    re: your last two points - No it would be my wife and I moving upstairs and he would be on the main floor so no stairs involved for him and the bathroom would be right outside his bedroom door. Unfortunately we may have to push the timetable as hard as we can, his physical health is great but the mind is fading fast and he can't be on his own anymore.

    Quote Originally Posted by glademaster View Post
    AcinPDX said it in more words than I would have, but he is spot on. What your are proposing is a major remodel that some jurisdictions won't allow any more. Do you know for a fact that you have the allowable Floor Area to convert your attic to living space? That will be the first question, then as outlined by Acin, this is a major structural job that will definitely require an engineer.

    Don't start a project this big without a permit, any contractor that is willing to take on something of this magnitude without one is almost certainly a hack.
    Again, shouldn't be a problem but you never know until you dig in and start applying for permits and such. I'm hoping that the ~800 sq ft attic space is sufficient and we don't run into odd things that make this more difficult than necessary.

  24. #699
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    I hope that the project goes smoothly for you all around, and I didn't mean to come across as pissing all over the idea, but I just wanted to give you a bit of perspective on the sorts of issues that arise during the review process for projects of this general nature where I work. However, we have stymieing Land Use codes, strict restrictions on allowable Floor Area and a more thorough structural review than most places.

  25. #700
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    Interesting to see this thread pop up. Just to create a little closure, I never did post pics or whatnot for our completed remodel. So below is a before and after vid of the main level. Apologize for the vertical video, it worked better while looking on my phone and I never really intended that it would be a youtube thing.

    Thanks to all the people that provided advice. Special thanks to foggy, fastfred, acinpdx, BelowZero (RIP ), BigDaddy, and anyone else I am forgetting.

    Before (including cute child)


    After (no cute child)
    very nice! super cool, by the looks of it the pain and suffering of having your life in turned up side down for a few months made it worth it.

    I don't get why kitchens were put in a "room" for so long, they are now the center of the house. Such a big open place now

    hopefully you can save up some money and get a new back door to match your bad ass kitchen................

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