Maybe grab one of those level 7 (or whateverthefuck they're called) furnace filters that are certified to remove small particles like dust and allergens?
Maybe grab one of those level 7 (or whateverthefuck they're called) furnace filters that are certified to remove small particles like dust and allergens?
Brandine: Now Cletus, if I catch you with pig lipstick on your collar one more time you ain't gonna be allowed to sleep in the barn no more!
Cletus: Duly noted.
Sorry, haven't been keeping up on the remodeling thread because i've been....remodeling.
Danno, when you use the term "demo" I think about the fun boys on TV with the skinny jeans and the sledge hammers. I prefer "deconstruction". Your guys should be taking their time assuming there is plumbing and electric in every wall, and taking things apart vs. tearing them down.
IMO opinion, the best thing you can do with a forced hot air system when remodeling is turn it or when the work is being done, sweep and vac everyday and then turn is back on at night. The return air the obviously more important than the supply ducts. Blocking the return air will fuck up furnaces. Most of the modern ones will throw a code first.
I can't remember your scope so I don't know if it is feasible but what we usually do is as follows:
a. set up a zip wall to your exist point
b. put a fan in the window for positive pressure
c. flooring protection etc.
d. do as much deconstruction as you can while leaving the waste in your contamination areas. Stop, sweep up, take the garbage would then start again.
Dust will happen but there is quite a bit you can do that is pretty easy that make a big difference. What ever you do, don't let the contractors see your wife cleaning while they are there. Budget for a couple of furnace filters and a $500 clean when you are done and just deal with it.
Not a remodel question, but this seems like a good place to ask: My basement wall is 1/2" of plaster over brick. Is there any good way to install a pegboard on that? The brick under the plaster is a bit crumbly, so I'm thinking not too good of an idea to anchor into that. Are any of the construction glues strong enough to hold furring strips plus pegboard/gear (gear being packs and ropes).
Or you can find a really good duct cleaner, the kind with the huge vacuum and tank on a truck, to clean all the ductwork. Clean the heat exchanger chamber and fins yourself if it's safe to do so, hvac contractors barely scratch the surface in their $79 seasonal maintenance check and cleaning IME.
“The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”
- Winston Churchill, paraphrased.
Brilliant idea comes to mind for this timed shutoff valve for washing machine water supply hoses:
Would you do the soldering shown in here yourself, or get a plumber to do it? Richard Trethewey always makes this kind of work look easy.
Anyone know what brand of hoses he installs, see 5:53 in the video. He says stainless steel braided hoses, nothing identifiable a label that appears briefly, the red and blue color coding for hot and cold is a nice touch.
“The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”
- Winston Churchill, paraphrased.
Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
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Aren't there joists above? If need be cut out the plaster where the wall goes to get a direct attachment. Otherwise, drill through and screw to the structure above.
Edit to add: you might cut out a little section or drive some probing nails to see what's there. If no structure, then drill and anchor into the brick.
Last edited by Alpinord; 11-13-2016 at 08:44 AM.
Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
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Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
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Honesty Zig, it depends on how crazy you want to get. There is an adhesive and an anchoring system for everything. As said above, if you can find structure in the ceiling and then bear on the floor a bearing wall is a good way to go.
If you want to hang from the brick, check out these products https://www.strongtie.com/adhesives_...stems/category
I've used all types of Simpson Epoxy for load bearing applications. Probably overkill for what you have going on but there is probably a hardware store equivalent. You could set an all thread or lag in masonry and build off of that. I've done this for floating mantels and that kind of thing.
"fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
"She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
"everybody's got their hooks into you, fuck em....forge on motherfuckers, drag all those bitches across the goal line with you." - (not so) ill-advised strategy
so that they don't get in the habit of expecting someone else doing it -- they need to clean up after themselves
bring this up whenever you are hiring subs directly: make sure they are each cleaning up their specifically generated dust & waste...clarity on this makes your living through a project easier (even when you have to call them on it)
“The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”
- Winston Churchill, paraphrased.
This. Any self respecting tradesman prides themselves on a clean and tidy jobsite. You would be surprised how much work you get just by having a clean site. Well and by being good at your job, but that goes without saying.
Where are all the denttal office left over equipment installs?
I want a vibro chair and one of those flushy spitoons.
watch out for snakes
Glad to hear it does happen.
What I've seen is subs who are used to a GC with a cleaning program that is performed by laborers working for the GC, not trades; they get used to just dropping things and leaving them. I think it's cheaper to not have a framer, plumber or electrician clean. So, for a homeowner who may not have preplanned things like daily cleaning, it's best to be upfront and write it in to the various discipline's contracts & set expectations.
That makes sense on the lower labor, and it's mostly but not completely what I observed from being around the CG mentioned. Example is from a recent job where any wood sawing or sanding (CG's carpenter, hardwood flooring sub, window replacement guy, etc.) was done in the parking lot of an occupied condo building. The CG said 'I don't want to insult you guys however this is what I expect to happen every day, sweep up all cuttings, then shop vac then entire area of the parking lot where you worked.' How many times have you seen a crew, any crew, shop-vap up their parking lot work area, every day?
“The best argument in favour of a 90% tax rate on the rich is a five-minute chat with the average rich person.”
- Winston Churchill, paraphrased.
Shop vac in the parking lot might be a wee bit excessive but as a framer I'm constantly in awe of how much the other trades expect the general to clean up after them. Then again nothing really surprises me much anymore.
Last edited by lifelinksplit; 11-13-2016 at 11:13 PM.
Total remodel jong here. Considering having somebody build a sleep loft above the kitchen and bathroom of my 1bd condo (non-load-bearing ceiling and an empty pocket of space above the bathroom; high ceiling above the kitchen). May need some minor electrical and duct work (bathroom vent) but not much. Not sure where I would even start. Do I need a contractor? Thanks for what I expect will be well reasoned and helpful input.
oh ur fukked
Last edited by SeatownSlackey; 11-14-2016 at 10:35 PM.
I think your answer is here
Not sure where I would even start
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