Belated TR: Revelation Range AK April 2013

[_Aaron_]

Ive been slacking a bit on TR's lately but I was going through some photos the other day and figured I should get around to posting these. A couple of them showed up in my season TR from last year but I think a good number of these are new.

I arrived in Anchorage around 11pm on April 5. I spent the 6th pacing, staring at a perfect clear skies in Anchorage, and waiting for non-mags Adam, Ty, and Kevin to arrive. The three of them had driven to Anchorage from Jackson and Bozeman in a small Tacoma hauling all of our gear. They arrived the afternoon of the 7th tired and sick of being in a truck with two and a half seats. We made a Costco run and stuffed everything into the truck. We must of been quite the sight driving north, 4 people and 800lbs of food and gear all stuffed into a Tacoma. Unfortunately, there's no pictures.

Here's Ty and Adam on the ferry just south of Revy.


IMG_9180 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We got to Talkeetna and grabbed a bunk room at the Roadhouse. In the common area of the Roadhouse we repacked and prepped our food. In hindsight, we should have spent more time prepping our food.

The next morning we checked in with TAT and got weighed in. Only 100lbs/person overweight! Needless to say, we were planning on eating and sleeping really well. Our weight also got us bumped up from a Beave to an Otter. Our pilot Paul told us that right now he couldn't fly and to check back in two hours. We headed back to the Roadhouse for brunch and waited for a phone call. Right on time the phone rang and Paul told us we were flying. Game on!



DSC_0003 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

The crew (minus me) left to right- Ty, Kevin, Adam


DSC_0004 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

The flight in was spectacular.

Denali


DSC_0008 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Revs


DSC_0021 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

The highest peak in the Revs, Hesperus. 5000+ft for 55+ skiing seemed like Mt.Robson on steroids. Maybe next time


DSC_0022 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

The potential for skiing was pretty obvious though.


DSC_0029 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


Then we were there!

It was a balmy -15f when we landed at 2pm. We spoke briefly with 2 climbers as we exchanged gear and places. Us on the glacier and them onto the otter. They had made a FA on the highest unclimbed peak in the Revs, The Apocalypse, but were quite excited to be leaving. Mentioning something about -40f night we said good bye and Paul took off down the glacier.


IMG_9341 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We moved into the climbers camp and quickly realized we were in for some of the coldest cold any of us had ever experienced. At dinner we took a temp of -27F. I put the thermometer away after that. We were there and with nowhere to go I decided I didnt want to know how cold it was.

Adam, night 1


DSC_0038 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

I slept in a -40 bag as well as my puffy vest, jacket, puffy pants, and booties. I slept through the night and woke up around 7. Stoked to ski, I hopped out of my bag and started breakfast. Adam, Ty, and Kevin were not quite as excited as myself and stayed in their bags until 9. After lots of breakfast with some hot Tang we set to trying to mash our feet into frozen boots. Some yelling, some screaming, and even a tear or two and we had our boots on. Skis on we headed up the glacier towards Hydra and the Angel.

Bluebird!

DSC_0041 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We eye'd a small north facing (We arent the smartest guys) chute on Hydra.


DSC_0046 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We topped out on the N ridge and transitioned. Since I had organized the trip the guys let me go first on the first line of the trip.


DSC_0056 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Ty the tele skier farther down. Our camp is the tiny yellow dot (the bigger ones are rocks) way down on the glacier


DSC_0061 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Ty named the chute after on old teacher, The Hawlpass.


DSC_0064 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Across the glacier we eyed another line first skied by Gnarwhale and crew called Missionary Position. It looked shorter and we headed over.

Kevin find good booting conditions in the lower section


DSC_0067 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We realized about halfway that shorter was a relative term.

Ty on the treadmill higher up


DSC_0069 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

~1500ft later we topped out and got a view down glacier. Hesperus pokes its head out


DSC_0074 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Then, like you might have guessed, we skied down.

Ty


DSC_0076 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Missionary position. Skier on the Apron.


DSC_0099 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr
More later.

[_Aaron_]

Stoked on our first day out. We skied 5 minutes back to camp and got back to work making water, seeing how many clothes we could actually get on, and making dinner. After dinner we tried to hang and take it all in but the bitter cold drove us into our tents and sleeping bags.

These boys are having a little to much fun staying warm.


IMG_9348 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We woke up to quite the suprise in the morning. Again, I was the first out of the tent and headed into the kitchen to get water and breakfast going. As I shoveled snow into our water pot I knocked over on of the bottles of tequila we had brought. It hit the ground with a thud and I bent over to pick it up. As I picked it up I realized the 80 proof booze had frozen overnight into a solid chuck of ice. Now I really didn't want to know how cold it was. Late we would find out that 80 proof booze freezes somewhere between -30f and -35f. Brrrrrrr.

Light snow and clouds greeted us and the plan for the day was to head up towards the Four Horsemen (Background of the 10th picture above). The mountain directly above camp that held Alpha, a line that Gnarwhale and crew had skied on their expedition. We eyed an equally tasty couloir to the lookers right of Alpha. Within 20 minutes we found ourselves transitioning to crampons below the couloir.

Ty gets it started


DSC_0101 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


The light snow that was falling was sluffing down the couloir regularly as we climbed. Although not a real avalanche concern in terms of getting buried if it got big enough to knock you off you feet the fall would have ended quite badly. With that in mind we climbed I quickly climbed through the lower crux while the group waited for me to find a good safe zone. I found a marginal spot below a step of water ice and waited for Ty Adam and Kevin to join me. As I waited the group below made the decision to bail. Although I wanted to continue, soloing the ice as well as downclimbing it on the way down seemed like an idiotic idea at best and I transitioned somewhere between a third and half way up the couloir. The couloir was steep and the constant sluffing from above made conditions variable. The snowboarding was not pretty but I rejoined the group below and we set to touring farther up the small valley. We jokingly refered to the couloir that had just shut us down as "School" since it had just taught us a lesson. The Revs were steep. Like really, really consistently steep, like 55deg for 2000+ft steep.

I'm in there somewhere. (Just below the dogleg)


DSC01534 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We kept it mellow and went exploring for the rest of the day heading up the glacial valley to a col that gaurded the SE face of Golgatha. It was scenic, fun, in the sun, and a nice change of pace from the spanking School had just dealt out.


IMG_9353 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


DSC_0106 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


DSC_0107 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We meadow skipped back to camp in ankle deep powder. and found some pretty cool light.

Camp Frozen Tequila


DSC_0112 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

The routine of camp remained unchanged. Melt water, try to stay warm, talk shit, eat dinner, make various hot drinks with exorbitant amounts of butter, and hit the sack.



The next day we awoke to more forzen booze and a plan to head up the same small valley and ski another couloir we spied the day before. Frozen skins that refused to stick to anything kept me and Adam in camp while Ty and Kevin headed out. We sat in camp with frozen skins against our stomachs until our impatience got the best of us and we tried to skin up and chase down the boys. They stuck but about 200 yards outside of camp our skins gave up and fell off again putting both of us back at square one. Back to camp we went.

About half an hour later was saw Kevin and Ty reappear and ski back to camp. They had met a stiff wind and combined with the cold temps they couldnt keep going and turned back at the base of the couloir. After a quick hot coco session I convinced the guys to give it another go guessing that the couloir would be more protected from the wind. Luckily this time me skins stuck and we were off.

Adam at the bottom of the couloir reppin' his Outward Bound roots


DSC01599 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Again we found ourselves climbing in the shade and all sporting white whiskers from any bit of exposed hair. For clarity my mustache is 3 days old in this photo. Im guessing at least 75% of what you see is just ice from my breath.


DSC01602 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

The couloir also introduced another issue we would deal with for a majority of the trip. A spooky hardslab over facets that exhibited extremely poor structure but lacked propagation. Similar to the snowpack I deal with in SA but much scarier considering our location.

The couloir dead ended just below the ridge where it would have met Missionary Position and we transitioned on steep firm snow.


DSC_0116 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Ty went first.


DSC_0126 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


DSC_0136 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We found better snow lower down in the couloir and the angle backed off a touch. This slash was quite fun


DSC01604 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We decided to try and stick more to the biblical naming theme on this one. "Second Cumming"

[_Aaron_]

Turns out day 5 is my birthday. Hooray for 22! Now I totally understand that Taylor Swift song. Unfortunately it was still brutally cold but we got up and made a big 'ol breakfast consisting of bacon, bacon, and various other things soaked in Bacon grease. We took advantage of another bluebird day to take our sleeping stuff, socks etc out and get it drying. I even changed my baselayers. Ty and Adam decided that they wanted to rest while Kevin and I gave the lookers left face/couloir of the Four horsemen a shot. It had a big hanging glacier mid way up that looked to have a small sneak around it. We packed the rope, a small rack of screws, and some runners and headed up.

Kevin and I as low lookers right.


DSC01632 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

In order to avoid any ice falling on our heads from the serac we took a long traversing bootpack on the lookers right of the line. In retrospect we would have made much better time and been just as safe with a slightly more direct line up the face but still right of fall line. Oh well.


DSC_0149 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We traversed close to the rock resulting in a steep awkward line. The line face NW and the majority of the snow on the surface had become quite faceted making finding good footing between in balance positions difficult.


IMG_9379 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

As we reached the choke and sneak around the serac the snow changed into a unsupportable hardslab over facets. Not wanting to push a poorly structured snowpack in serious terrain we decided to pull the plug again. back to the drawing board. The rest of the line held great faceted powder though and was a blast to ride. Not a bad way to spend a birthday.

Since it was my birthday and this line was my little project I got to go first.


IMG_9387 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Adam and Ty took a short walk down the glacier to take some photos too.


DSC01638 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Kevin and I skated back to camp only to find this.


DSC_0176 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Ty and Adam watching movies in the kitchen. Rough times in the middle of nowhere.

I had brought a bottle of scotch to celebrate with and after a couple sips Adam got to work on birthday dinner. Salmon veggie deliciousness.


IMG_9402 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We drank a little more scotch but the though of missing a day of skiing kept things mellow.

Day 6 seemed to mark a small change in the weather. When we woke temps seemed a little bit warmer and we headed off down glacier to scope out some more skiing.


DSC01660 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Long story short... There's alot!


IMG_9666 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


IMG_9628 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


DSC_0178 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Oh and we started on an igloo!


DSC01679 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

And Adam demonstrates why we should have done more food prep.


IMG_9364 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

My feet had blistered a bit on the previous days tour and Kevin and I took a day off drying things out, mending my feet and drinking snogaritas in the sun. Adam and Ty went out and skied the lookers right couloir.


DSC_0188 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Ty came back a little tired


DSC_0193 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

As we settled into our sleeping bags a couple high clouds moved in and we went to bed wondering if our weather window might be closing.

[_Aaron_]

We woke on day 8 to a steady snow and spent the majority of the day playing cards, reading, drinking scotch and wondering how long wed be tent bound. Luckily, it wasnt long.

This view could never get old.


DSC_0196 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We woke on day 9 to warmer temps and eye'd a smaller broken glacier on the flanks of the Angel that had some possible mixed lines the rest of the group was interested in. As we left camp and headed towards the glacier the clouds began to part. Whew!

The clouds parted quickly and by the time we had started up the bluebird had returned. We opted to take a slightly round about way to avoid the lower section of the glacier that looked like it had some debris that had come down it. The small storm had dropped some new snow and we all looked forward to a little powder skiing.

The round about way took us below the SE buttress of the Angel.


DSC_0219 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Once we go to the glacier we decided to rope up. We figured the route finding wouldn't be difficult but since we had brought the rope we might as well us it.


DSC_0222 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

The boys gave me the sharp end of the rope and off we went.


DSC_0226 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

The skin was short and we found ourselves in a large basin below the main icefall on the Angel. Not wanting to linger below the icefall we quickly spun around and went meadow skipping down the glacier.

The main Angel icefall. Nice ski line if the ice ever disappeared.


DSC_0227 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Off I go!


DSC01737 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

More glacier pow. Ty breaks out the soul turn.


DSC_0233 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


DSC_0239 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

My turn again


DSC01768 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We return to camp and set to finishing up our igloo.


IMG_9419 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

The next day our tracks looked pretty good.


DSC_0246 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We woke to blue skies again. I was beginning to think that this might be the calm before some sort of giant storm but we figured wed make the most of it and headed down glacier to 3500ft couloir we had scouted on our previous days tour.


DSC_0190 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

The line started our mellow with firm snow and steepened as we climbed. As the slope steepened the NW facing snow became more and more faceted on the surface and near the top the wallowfest was in full swing.


DSC01781 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

A cornice guarded the top of the couloir and the wind had deposited a windslab below it. With a 6+ft corince, a new windslab, and nothing to prove we skied from 20ft below the cornice. The first turns were a little bit scratchy but in no time we were in steep faceted powder heaven.

From the top the Angel looked impressive


DSC_0276 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Scratchy turns off the top.


DSC01790 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

But better as we skied down.


DSC_0268 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


DSC_0260 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


DSC01806 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


DSC_0280 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Trying to stay with biblical themes this one went down as "Keeping the Faith" Defiantly one of the better lines of the trip.

We took it easy the next day skiing short pow laps on the slopes above camp and drying gear. Some of us even got a chance to work on our suntans

[_Aaron_]

The following day The group set out to ski Alpha, a route first skied by Gnarwhale's crew on their trip. Its the most obvious couloir on the Four Horsemen and had been temping us ever since we landed.

Alpha is the center couloir with the bigger apron.


DSC_0295 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We booted up the Apron and after crossing a small, well bridged, shrund Adam decided that he didnt want anything to do with Alpha and turned around to ski around below the couloir. We found good booting condition and tough skiing conditions as we climbed.

Ty and me


IMG_9474 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Adam took this picture from below. Can you find us?


DSC01901 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

The couloir was quite steep and very sustained. Id guess in the 50-55 degree range. As we neared the top, ice became prevelant just a few inches below the snow as well as on the sides of the couloir. Again we stopped just below the cornice guarding the top and skied from there

Ty framed this one up and gave it to his dad as a father day present. Not bad eh?


DSC_0296 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We skied long pitches due to a lack of reasonable safe zones and once you we in the zone you didnt want it to stop. I didnt take many pictures


DSC_0300 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

When Ty skied up to the group below the couloir his face said it all. Suburb!


DSC01976 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

Back to camp for more water, food, bullshitting, and sleep.

The next morning we set out for a bit of mixed climbing to change it up. We headed up below the Angel icefall to climb a moderate couloir but unfortunately were thwarted by rotten snow and an open bergshrund.

Clint Helander (One of the climbers that flew out when we flew in) had sent us a photo of a couloir on the Angel he had downclimbed on his FA of the S ridge. I was blown away.



We decided to go for and spent the next day resting and prepping.


IMG_9516 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

We woke up early and headed toward the col between Hesperus and the Angel. The west facing couloir that lead into the basin that the couloir hid in was frozen solid and we made survival turns into a basin at the end of the Alaska Range. A short traverse to a pile of roller balls and small slide debris revealed that the bottom of the couloir was guarded by a short slopping pitch of moderate ice. We decided the ice was low consequence and that soloing would be the best plan of action. The ice was in good shape and uneventful and we climbed into the couloir proper. We found supportable frozen snow and made quick time through the lower reaches of the couloir.


DSC02000 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


IMG_9522 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


DSC_0354 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


About halfway up the couloir took a slight bend to the right and when we came around the corner the top was in sight. Stoke rose and the treadmill effect kicked in.



IMG_9529 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr


When we approached the top the snow gave way to blue ice covered by a dusting of snow. A small, maybe 2 skis wide strip of deeper snow provided some hope of a possible descent from the summit. It would most likely be in poor style but I held out hope. The sun had finally come around to give the us some sunlight when we were a less than 100ft from the summit. Our strip of deeper snow softened quickly and our footing deteriorated quickly. That was enough for us to decide to attempt to ski was a really bad idea. At the last rock below the summit (Visible near the sun shade line on the above picture) Ty decided enough was enough and pulled out the rope and built an anchor and started rappeling. Adam Kevin and I pushed on hungry for a summit. I took the lead around to the right of the rock Ty was building his anchor from. Again below the cornice the slope steepened to near 60 degrees. I held up for a second, less than 10 feet from the summit, to stop and think. About ~3500ft of some of the best couloir skiing Id ever seen layed below my heels. A glance back up sealed the deal. A summit, 10 feet of exposed and unprotected climbing in the middle of nowhere was not worth pushing it any farther. As far as I was concerned I had come here to ski and all the skiing was behind me. I downclimbed to Ty's anchor and hopped on the rope. Adam and Kevin followed suit passing on the summit.


DSC02003 by Aaron Diamond13, on Flickr

I still wonder what would have happened if we had pushed on. Would we have summited and had a safe return? Would I have fallen? I still think I made the right decision (Im still here) but its definitely one, if not the, hardest choices I've made in my BC pursuits.

Continued on page 2

[Charmander]

Looking forward to seeing more, good-fuckin-work buddy!

[STLHD]

Awesome. Pumped for the next installment.

[Chugachjed]

Stoke! Solid work thus far on the TR.

[LeeLau]

Nice to see you have the booting up thing practise dialed

[sqikunst]

Great start to an already Great TR. -32C that is mighty cold!

[ak_powder_monkey]

So I've been noticing huge blobs on the radar over that way all winter... I wonder how the snowfall compares to PWS/Kenai Mountains?

[flyman683]

So I've been noticing huge blobs on the radar over that way all winter... I wonder how the snowfall compares to PWS/Kenai Mountains?

Nws just posted a statewide snow cover map. Link was off there Facebook feed so I don't have it handy but I think it was at least in the 100%+ range vs normal.

EDIT TO ADD THE MAP -

Not great, but way better then around here. South side of range seems to be estimated better than North side.


Op - quality post sir.

[BigDaddy]

Jesus... you guys are living the Coors commercial. -40, ice axes, and big mts... just where is the secret indoor bar filled with nothing but Supermodels?

Great TR, and way to get out there in those conditions.

[mc_roon]

yeah, this isnt going to suck

[ak_powder_monkey]

Jesus... you guys are living the Coors commercial. -40, ice axes, and big mts... just where is the secret indoor bar filled with nothing but Supermodels?

I believe those were filmed out of girdwood...

And flyman, that map isn't super useful... I imagine the resolution on that is in the 500km range

[Dhelihiker]

- 27F Brrrr, so far so rad!!!

[grskier]

Wow....
Nice f@cking work.

[Unfrozen Caveman Lawyer]

Oh Wow - awesome! Looking forward to the rest.

[jbski]

Sweetness. Way to get after it! Love AK expedition TRs. Roughly, what are the elevations of the peaks that you climbed on this trip?

[_Aaron_]

Sweetness. Way to get after it! Love AK expedition TRs. Roughly, what are the elevations of the peaks that you climbed on this trip?

Most of the Rev summits are around 10K with the main Revelation glacier being 4-5K We were camped near the head around 5K.

Hesperus is a giant though rising roughly 9K off the valley.

Bump for some more.

[JTrue]

So I've been noticing huge blobs on the radar over that way all winter... I wonder how the snowfall compares to PWS/Kenai Mountains?

Very low snow this year in the Revs, was planning on heading out there. No snow on the glacier and more rock than snow in the coulies.

Sick TR Aaron, on my bucket list. Heading to Anchorage and will go where the snow is in March. Can't imagine how cold it must've been starting off in the morning.

[char]

Somehow some dude pulling his kid around in a laundry basket is at the top and this is at the bottom.

[spankthepow]

Such a rad trip! Hope you're doing well bud

[Trace Hardslab]

Spectacular country. Looks like good rock too?

[_Aaron_]

Very low snow this year in the Revs, was planning on heading out there. No snow on the glacier and more rock than snow in the coulies.

Sick TR Aaron, on my bucket list. Heading to Anchorage and will go where the snow is in March. Can't imagine how cold it must've been starting off in the morning.

Bummer to hear that dude. Where'd you get the beta from? Rob? I'm looking to go back sometime if you're ever looking for a partner.

Somehow some dude pulling his kid around in a laundry basket is at the top and this is at the bottom.

Meh. This is the new TGR. The old guard has more or less moved on or gotten older, had kids, and now have better ways to spend their time than posting on a message board.

I post these mainly for my own entertainment/archiving as well as to keep friends I dont see or talk to often but post or lurk here updated on what Ive been up to. I also hold some idealistic hope that some kid will stumble across these boards and the TR's from a random group of ordinary people and be inspired to go out and chase there dreams much like I did when I was a teenager living in PA.

Such a rad trip! Hope you're doing well bud

Thanks buddy. Keep your vacation time open... When it stops snow here it might be time to go big.

Spectacular country. Looks like good rock too?

Great rock. If flights weren't so expensive I'll bet the Revs would be as popular as the Ruth and such for alpine climbing.

Oh and bump for some more.