curious about people's ptex techniques

[time2clmb]

Not going to repeat the steps again, but flame dripping sucks. Soldering iron is dirt cheap and works wonders.

[Canada1]

I can make it by between 12 and 3 today. What kind of beer do you like?

Thanks all. I'm going to order from Tognar as well so next time I don't have to come on here and plead.

And for any of you who don't believe in Karma, I was spraying my eight year old when I took the core shot! Serves me right.

[NmbrdDays]

Reliable racing dot com has a decent amount of tuning gear. I get allot if my gear from them. They ship out pretty quick.

[Canada1]

SFB - Look behind the red water cooler on the side of your house.

Thank You!!

[userA]

Bump, since I finally got my repair stuff together this weekend, and put a massive coreshot in my formerly-minty-fresh Snow Rangers (down to the metal):

minty fresh snow rangers seem like a long time ago

[El Chupacabra]

It was an ebay or CRAIGSLIST find, something like that... Skied them a little, then sold them, as I didn't like them as much as the Explosivs.

Had the same reaction to the Volkl G4 /41/ whatever, which I really didn't like. I think around that time I picked up some Head im85s, and liked those a lot more.

[Micol]

Needed:
Ptex stick
lighter
Propane torch (mapgas whatever)
metal scraper

1. light propane torch
2. have ski turned over and
coreshot trimmed out for loose pieces
3. nuke ptex with torch
4. when ptex catches on
fire and starts dripping madly direct into coreshot
5. only put in one layer of ptex at a time
5.5 blow out flame on ptex stick
6. turn torch off and scrape ptex even with base
7. repeat till coreshot is gone
8. you will see carbon and the repair
9. who cares...it is fixed
10 do not drip burning lava ptex on your fingernails or
on your junk if sitting on floor in your boxers...it will f@#k you up

if a friend borrowed your skis and put the coreshot in them, make
the friend do all the scraping. some big giants ones can take 10
passes or more.

[Canada1]

I like this method as it allows you to work a larger volume of the Ptex and seems to avoid the issue of getting the ptex too hot and having it exit the wound. My only question now is does it give the durability of the torch melt or candle burn methods. If I remember, I'll report back in a couple weeks after skiiing it. Also, if you use this method consider having a fan. The smoke makes it hard to see what your doing at times.

[Dave Marshack]

First I send the ski through the Montana Crystal glide sapphire on a rough grind program. I then either use my auto extruder if the damage is bad/im feeling lazy and want to lay down a thick coat, or my easy mender if It's just a small patch. Then scrape with a freshly sharpened metal scraper. Send it through the Montana with a medium, then fine then structure pass and make sure the HDT those edges. After that a coat of hot wax, hot box it over night, scrape and I am done.

If you don't have a Montana Crystal glide sapphire I highly suggest you get one.

[Pukesno]

^^^^

Let me rummage through my junk drawer and find an extra $30,000 just laying around so I can get one of these

[dcpnz]

Thin layer of metal grip / copolymer applied with soldering iron if theres core or edge involved.
Then pistol gun to fill with molten ptex from the stick. Never had one rip out yet.
Usually use a file to scrape excess. Will have to try snadpaper - seems might give more control. I hate surform things - always seem to gouge surrounding base.
Yes patches do wear down ever so slowly vs the original base but its so slow as to be immaterial and I've gots tons more scrapes by then anyway.
Used to use string with soldering iron but it's trickier and messier although maybe more durable.
Haven't used a drip candle in years and won't ever again.

Theres a vid around somewhere of using a plastic welder and the ptex string - seems good in that don't melt the whole ptex patch, just the bit on bottom adhering to ski. Too complicated for my garage shop though.

[XXX-er]

Never use any petex that will stay lit cuz IME the wax in the stick means the P-tex wears out of your bases fast and I wouldnt pay for any patch where the shop used drip candles

^^^^

Let me rummage through my junk drawer and find an extra $30,000 just laying around so I can get one of these

I think you would need to find about 4-500K

[Pukesno]

Never use any petex that will stay lit cuz IME the wax in the stick means the P-tex wears out of your bases fast and I wouldnt pay for any patch where the shop used drip candles



I think you would need to find about 4-500K

$ 400-$500K, well hell, consider this a PSA http://www.ebay.com/itm/Montana-Crys...-/130573851259

[XXX-er]

I was probably thinking of the robots where some spaced out grom loads the ski, presses the button and the skis are done automagically ... assuming he remembers to load the skis

it sez in the notes that one was 65K new

[Pukesno]

The way I see it, even at $30K that equivalent to a brand new pair of skis, everyday, for 150 years.

Now that's a quiver of all quivers.

[Dave Marshack]

^^^ yeah our machine was a half mill installed with full warranty. The shops who used spaced out groms give us a bad name. If you are a competent operator there are many cool things that you can do. The p-tex guns known as easy menders are like 75 bucks though and are a great addition to any serious skiers home shop.


On my personal skis I barley even p-tex... I much prefer to use a base weld so it will accept a structure and wax.

[Dave Marshack]

OHHHH BTW if anyone wants a reconditioned buff waxer for their home (dopest thing ever) I have like 6 kickin around right now...

[XXX-er]

My one & only base grind they forgot to run my skis and asked me to come back in an hr, so I come back 4 hrs later full of comp beer and need to borrow the pisser, as i walk thru the shop I see the grom loading my skis into the robot so I yell out "Ha you forgot again!" and start laughing my ass off ...they were not amused and got quite pissy but the skis were done in like 10min, I was amazed with the speed & results

[Dave Marshack]

My one & only base grind they forgot to run my skis and asked me to come back in an hr, so I come back 4 hrs later full of comp beer and need to borrow the pisser, as i walk thru the shop I see the grom loading my skis into the robot so I yell out "Ha you forgot again!" and start laughing my ass off ...they were not amused and got quite pissy but the skis were done in like 10min, I was amazed with the speed & results

Next time your riding blackcomb pm me and ill give ya a TGR Maggot tune that will blow your doors off.

[Micol]

The way I see it, even at $30K that equivalent to a brand new pair of skis, everyday, for 150 years.

Now that's a quiver of all quivers.

well consider your skis are worn out (lost camber, the flex shot, lost rocker, delamed, edge compressed, etc , etc) after 150 or < days who needs 150 years. plus ski tuning is kinda dumb. who needs faster in powder? a wax is pointless, who wants to set an edge in pow? maybe if you are a lindsay vohan wannabee on AC30s twice a year on corduroy and like spyder clothing and impressing your fellow skiers with mach Dumb slaying 15 deg angle?? (I forgot now Spydar are spancering big mountain and Davenport et al). but really now, detuned skis are really what its all about anyway. do you really think 20 year old skis with great tune are worth a crap? Or do you want to Mach dumn a straight chute couloir for 200 ft with slick wax before descending into deathdom?

buy propane torch, ptex, and a sxipack for less than 1/2 cost of the first "pro" coreshot repair and call it a day all season long fixing your own.

[Pukesno]

The way I see it, even at $30K that equivalent to a brand new pair of skis, everyday, for 150 years.

Now that's a quiver of all quivers.

I just realized this post make no sense at all.

Maybe I should stop posting stuff while suffering from a NyQuil hangover.

[Micol]

I just realized this post make no sense at all.

Maybe I should stop posting stuff while suffering from a NyQuil hangover.

My rant was not intentionally directed to you. sorry man, I was just saying all the fine tuning is not so necessary for powder skiing imo. And, skis self destruct fairly quickly with heavy use.

[Micol]

flame dripping sucks.

Naw, makes life exciting

[Lindahl]

well consider your skis are worn out (lost camber, the flex shot, lost rocker, delamed, edge compressed, etc , etc) after 150 or < days who needs 150 years. plus ski tuning is kinda dumb. who needs faster in powder? a wax is pointless, who wants to set an edge in pow? maybe if you are a lindsay vohan wannabee on AC30s twice a year on corduroy and like spyder clothing and impressing your fellow skiers with mach Dumb slaying 15 deg angle?? (I forgot now Spydar are spancering big mountain and Davenport et al). but really now, detuned skis are really what its all about anyway. do you really think 20 year old skis with great tune are worth a crap? Or do you want to Mach dumn a straight chute couloir for 200 ft with slick wax before descending into deathdom?

buy propane torch, ptex, and a sxipack for less than 1/2 cost of the first "pro" coreshot repair and call it a day all season long fixing your own.

1) Sticky snow throws off your balance. Wax and base structure helps.

2) Traverses, cattraks and ridgetops will be faster with a good smooth base and wax = first to your line.

3) Good edges helps getting you safely across windhammered snow to your soft line.

I fix my own skis, but eventually they degrade into an unmanageable mess and need a professionals touch to bring them back to life, especially this year.

[Pukesno]

My rant was not intentionally directed to you. sorry man, I was just saying all the fine tuning is not so necessary for powder skiing imo. And, skis self destruct fairly quickly with heavy use.

No problem, I actually thought you had agreed with me regarding the cost to tune ski's.