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Thread: Shit you built with your own two hands (picture thread)

  1. #1776
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    I'd hate to walk down that after several gin & tonics. ;-)

  2. #1777
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beaver View Post
    Well, he did call it the shed of doom.
    Touche! That's why I didn't really get into it. Acinpdx summed it up nicely. Hell we tore into and shored up structure on the willson school in Bozeman which was over a hundred years old. Some of things they used to span with dimensional 2x4 would make most engineers now shit their pants but hey it lasted that long.

  3. #1778
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    So you're saying this thing has a chance to not fall over too? I just need it to store some tools, bikes and a couple buckets of hooker teeth.

  4. #1779
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    Quote Originally Posted by commonlaw View Post
    So you're saying this thing has a chance to not fall over too? I just need it to store some tools, bikes and a couple buckets of hooker teeth.
    Wait...you made no mention of building with dead hookers. Wait for rigomortaus to set in and shove one on each side of that header, replace every other eight ball. No problemo.

  5. #1780
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Tortoise View Post
    Dumb question - Is it ok to have the bricks on the bottom tier stacked like that? I would think they need to be staggered like the upper walls. Then again, I know completely nothing about this sort of thing.
    No, not ok. It stops acting like a wall and instead acts like a bunch of individual stacks of bricks. Plus it would look better if the bricks were staggered properly.
    You see, in this world there's two kinds of people, my friend: Those with loaded guns and those who dig. You dig.

  6. #1781
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    Guessing he didn't want to make half-bricks to start the row.

  7. #1782
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    Little deck for the 110 year old pos I've been fixing up all summer. I'd be proud of the inside, but the painters the homeowner hired fucked it up so bad I'm sad and ashamed.



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    god created man. winchester and baseball bats made them equal - evel kenievel

  8. #1783
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    Quote Originally Posted by runethechamp View Post
    No, not ok. It stops acting like a wall and instead acts like a bunch of individual stacks of bricks. Plus it would look better if the bricks were staggered properly.
    Yup. As long as there's gravel all the way down the back of the wall it'll probably be ok, but if it's backfilled with dirt I give it 10 years before it goes over.
    Name:  Screen Shot 2017-09-12 at 7.37.07 PM.png
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  9. #1784
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    Quote Originally Posted by acinpdx View Post
    Site for a bridge over a dry creekbed we made to deal with storm runoff

    Anchored a couple of 4x6 PT sleepers for the foundations, pinned down with rebar


    Some chopping


    PT frame




    PT decking


    Done! Not remarkable design but bomber construction -- it will be there for while



    Got it done in one 90 deg heater day with help of plenty of cold beverages
    You have some smooth legs
    Zone Controller

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  10. #1785
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    You got a purty mouth
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  11. #1786
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    Quote Originally Posted by commonlaw View Post
    I think I can beef it up despite what has been built so far. I did put in simple rafters tonight:



    There really is no snow load to speak of (thanks Obama) and already put up doublers though you can't see them. The siding was purposefully that tall to accommodate them and the rafters. This thing just needs to keep rain out and not fall over. I'll certainly reinforce the outside studs and openings. Thanks for the advice guys. Keep it coming as I build if you can. AC, that visual was awesome.
    The dead loads can create sag over time. Cut add a built-up header above the door.

    Overhangs help to protect the siding (and help aesthetically). I'd extend the rafter ends at least a foot and box in the rakes to add a rake eave:

    Click here for 3d Animation.
    Name:  shed2.jpg
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    Last edited by Alpinord; 09-13-2017 at 06:44 AM.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  12. #1787
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    The dead loads can create sag over time. Cut add a built-up header above the door.

    Overhangs help to protect the siding (and help aesthetically). I'd extend the rafter ends at least a foot and box in the rakes to add a rake eave:

    Click here for 3d Animation.
    Name:  shed2.jpg
Views: 572
Size:  124.0 KB
    Def going to beef up the framing and already have the overhang in the works. What do you think of acx over osb for the roof?

  13. #1788
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    Quote Originally Posted by commonlaw View Post
    Def going to beef up the framing and already have the overhang in the works. What do you think of acx over osb for the roof?
    Redundant. Plus ACX is too high a grade for something that will be buried. If you float 5/8" roof decking you can tie in with 2x subfascias. Using 3/8" ACX or whatever soffits will 'box' the overhangs and add rigidity.
    Last edited by Alpinord; 09-13-2017 at 07:47 AM.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  14. #1789
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    Redundant. Plus ACX is too high a grade for something that will be buried. If you float 5/8" roof decking you can tie in with 2x subfascias. Using 3/8" ACX or whatever soffits will 'box' the overhangs and add rigidity.
    Subfascias planned too. Since I'm in Seattle, I thought I wouldn't mind paying more for something more high grade to protect all the shit under it from the rain, long term. If there is really no appreciable difference I guess I wont, but osb just seems so spongy. Again, its obvious I'm making this up as I go, but some compressed shit wood, some felt and some shingles doesnt really scream integrity in this climate.

  15. #1790
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    Quote Originally Posted by commonlaw View Post
    Subfascias planned too. Since I'm in Seattle, I thought I wouldn't mind paying more for something more high grade to protect all the shit under it from the rain, long term. If there is really no appreciable difference I guess I wont, but osb just seems so spongy. Again, its obvious I'm making this up as I go, but some compressed shit wood, some felt and some shingles doesnt really scream integrity in this climate.
    OSB is pretty standard and should have no problem for your shed and no snow loads with rafters at 16" o.c. (even 24" o.c.) and 12" boxed overhangs in your case.

    Shake shingles over felt (with that green moss growing) is pretty tried and true in your area. If in doubt, maybe metal is better with your low pitch and/or membrane, but pretty spendy and a PITA for such a small roof.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  16. #1791
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    OSB is pretty standard and should have no problem for your shed and no snow loads with rafters at 16" o.c. (even 24" o.c.) and 12" boxed overhangs in your case.

    Shake shingles over felt (with that green moss growing) is pretty tried and true in your area. If in doubt, maybe metal is better with your low pitch and/or membrane, but pretty spendy and a PITA for such a small roof.
    Right on. Thanks for the advice.

  17. #1792
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    Quote Originally Posted by commonlaw View Post
    Right on. Thanks for the advice.
    You're welcome. I'm guessing around 3:12 on your roof pitch? If so, rolling asphalt roofing may be required and better than shingles, too.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  18. #1793
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    You're welcome. I'm guessing around 3:12 on your roof pitch? If so, rolling asphalt roofing may be required and better than shingles, too.
    I think its steeper than that.

  19. #1794
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    terry, i love the 3d web spin...cool tool...acad sure doesn't do that

  20. #1795
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    Quote Originally Posted by commonlaw View Post
    I think its steeper than that.
    What are the front and back wall heights? I see now the back wall is lower than I drew it. So yeah, the pitch should be 4 to 5ish:12? Looks like 8' x 10' footprint?
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  21. #1796
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    Quote Originally Posted by acinpdx View Post
    terry, i love the 3d web spin...cool tool...acad sure doesn't do that
    Yeah, it's a great 3D visualization tool. Vectorworks baby! Finally, we have multiple view panes, too for 2018.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  22. #1797
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    What are the front and back wall heights? I see now the back wall is lower than I drew it. So yeah, the pitch should be 4 to 5ish:12? Looks like 8' x 10' footprint?
    This is all off the top of my head while in workland, but I think the rise is about 22 inches and the run is around 44. 7.5x 10 footprint, which means I am closer to 6:12/26 or so degrees

  23. #1798
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    Quote Originally Posted by commonlaw View Post
    This is all off the top of my head while in workland, but I think the rise is about 22 inches and the run is around 44. 7.5x 10 footprint, which means I am closer to 6:12/26 or so degrees
    I was way off. I blame it on 5AM and not enough coffee! Any roofing should drain well.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  24. #1799
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    Quote Originally Posted by commonlaw View Post
    I think its steeper than that.
    alpinord had great advice. I would only add that if what it is holding is important or of value and since its not huge, I would use Grace Ice and Water as the underlayment instead of felt. I have seen it used at 10,000 huge snow loads as the primary roof (idiots, lasted for 8 years so far on its own - not me) and it is worth the little extra money for so few squares to have such great protection underneath shingles.


    btw: great looking deck, super level wall, , cool shed, great projects around here
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  25. #1800
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    ^^^^ Common, I have most of a roll of ice dam self adhesive underlayment that needs a home if you want it. Should be plenty for your needs.
    Quote Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles View Post
    If I lived in WA, Oft would be my realtor. Seriously.

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