Shit you built with your own two hands (picture thread)

[old goat]

Beautiful work. Perfectly even gaps around the doors and drawers. Love the walnut.

[blender]

nail a batten across the studs to keep them in line, trim.

This.
I am a carpenter, but mediocre skills can manage this job. The laser or string is the answer obviously, followed by a bit of cutting from step ladder or scaffold. NBD.
You can use steel shims for the areas of the plate that need it.

[Mazderati]

The cabinetry looks super nice.

[old goat]

Old fashioned furniture from an old fuck. If you like it you can go to https://www.instagram.com/hortonbrasses/ and like it and I can win a gift certificate. The turning was done at the Truckee Roundhouse.

[shafty85]

Can anyone lend some advice on laying a foundation for a shed I am building. Never done anything like this before, but need a place to keep the dead hookers that are piling up. I am building it on a concrete slab. I didn't lay it specifically for this, its preexisting and its not quite level. Am I building some sort of sill plate and then shims on top? What do people think of split drive nails for the anchors? Basically need to figure out how to get this project started on an uneven concrete slab.

Some good advice, though some more information might be useful. Is the shed going to be the same size as the slab? Is the top of the slab above the existing grade around it? What climate do you live in? If the slab is larger than the shed, you would have standing water against the sill and/or water inside if the sill plate isn't completely flush/sealed. Same if the shed is the same size as the slab but the slab is flush with grade. Eventually the sill and bottom plates would rot. At least, that would happen on the west coast of BC. I would probably pour a 6-8" curb (check local building requirements) if I wanted the thing to last (ie. if I planned on living in the house forever and didn't want to have to replace the shed).


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[old goat]

Some good advice, though some more information might be useful. Is the shed going to be the same size as the slab? Is the top of the slab above the existing grade around it? What climate do you live in? If the slab is larger than the shed, you would have standing water against the sill and/or water inside if the sill plate isn't completely flush/sealed. Same if the shed is the same size as the slab but the slab is flush with grade. Eventually the sill and bottom plates would rot. At least, that would happen on the west coast of BC. I would probably pour a 6-8" curb (check local building requirements) if I wanted the thing to last (ie. if I planned on living in the house forever and didn't want to have to replace the shed).


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the shed I just demolished was in Sacramento--where it's hot and dry most of the year . You don't have to live on the BC coast to have your sills rot if it's built on grade. Maybe he could get away with it in Death Valley. Maybe.

[Art Shirk]

Installed. Now for the shed hilarity.

[spanky]

Installed. Now for the shed hilarity.

Very nice. I'm thinking about something similar... possibly not as deep along the short edge (of the top "rectangle"). About 6'x2'x3' (WxDxH).

Care to share any details on how you built them?

[Art Shirk]

Very nice. I'm thinking about something similar... possibly not as deep along the short edge (of the top "rectangle"). About 6'x2'x3' (WxDxH).

Care to share any details on how you built them?

That's pretty close to the dimesnions of mine. I think mine were somewhere around 30'' high and 30'' deep, just over 5 feet wide. I didnt look at any plans and winged it as I went but think they turned out aesthetically fine and, more importantly, structurally sound. Felt very rigid and burly when installing them.

Each box has six treated 4x4 posts (the corners and middle). Slapped cedar boards around the posts with galvanized lag screws and then just kind of framed it out with cedar, both inside and out (so that I had something to nail into) and on the top as a ledge. The corners were done with a 45 degree angle on the table saw and the rest laid flat. Exactly between each post was a reinforced with vertical cedar slats (again both inside and out). Just make sure that the ledge you leave in the top overhangs at least as much of the width of the cedar framing just underneath it.

Beyond the lag screws, I just used a 16 gauge 2.5 Finish Nailer for the framed bits. Then I slathered the whole thing in this completely VCO free stuff as I want to eat out of the thing: https://www.amazon.com/TriCoPolymer-.../dp/B00N0LFMXG


Because they were built for a hill, I obviously made the rear side shorter. I didnt get too mathy on that as I didnt care if I dug out a bit, but you could easily figure out the exact right dimensions with some framing string, level, tape measure and stakes. Or just take your inclinometer out of your ski pack, but don't forget to put it back in to see how gnarly you get next season.

The worst part was just the fucking digging, lining up, leveling. Running string helped. Packed the bottom of the holes with pea gravel, put the boxes in, filled the holes with quikcrete, watered em down and let them set. Fill with vegetables and pakalolo.

EDIT: forgot the best part. My wife wanted these for veggies. i was looking forward to tomatoes specifically. We already have a big herb garden up on one of the decks. Came home from business a few days ago and she planted stuff in them while I was gone.

One is full of herbs.
The other has two pumpkins.

Fuck me.

[Art Shirk]

Reviving my shed foundation questions. So, did I miss just using some sort of adjustable footings that I can crank up or down? Any suggestions there?

[RootSkier]

That idea makes no sense whatsoever.

[Art Shirk]

That idea makes no sense whatsoever.

Because it just translates the wonkiness to the vertical axis instead of the horizontal?

[RootSkier]

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[::: :::]

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/2e/2e534736-24a3-42f9-8c48-a8543477e41e_1000.jpg[/IMG]



you can drill/epoxy into a footing or foundation after it's poured if that process helps your installation accuracy

[Art Shirk]

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/2e/2e534736-24a3-42f9-8c48-a8543477e41e_1000.jpg[/IMG]



you can drill/epoxy into a footing or foundation after it's poured if that process helps your installation accuracy[/QUOTE]

Yes, this is exactly what I was talking about.

[Foggy_Goggles]

Kinda sort of framing 101. I don't think you ever said how about of level the slab is. It is less than +/- 1" corner to corner I'd just go wedge anchors to tie your bottom plate to the slab and just shim with washers and steel shims up the wedge anchors and studs respectively. More than that and I'd probably just set the bottom plate and balloon frame. I'd go double bottom plate (blocking actually) as I hate relying on toe nails into the bottom plate.

I laser will make it easy to stay square, plumb, level and in rack put they didn't have one to build the pyramids. 4' level, a string line and a tape would get it done.

Do you live near Buster, Mofro and the rest of the PNW crew I know? You could probably convince me to do it for free if you bought me a $350 ticket on Southwest.

[Foggy_Goggles]

Like this. I always use steel shims against concrete but same idea. Now that I think about is, I'd temporarily set the bottom plate then shoot it in with a laser, custom cut all the studs as needed. This assumes that you've got enough room on your slab to pre-build the walls.

Can't insert

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...%20mudsill.jpg

[::: :::]

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/sites/default/files/Roger%20Normand%20-%20shmming%20the%20mudsill.jpg[/IMG]



cedar shims or cut your own PT ones [edit] use steel like foggy says above

not sure the sill gasketing is doing anything here...maybe best under the shims and then spray foam the gap with a flexible foam

(exterior styrofoam optional...is that an ICF foundation?)

[Foggy_Goggles]

sill seal does't really work when you shim.

cedar shims against concrete will fail inspection here.

when using insulated concrete forms, set your plate to the outside so your ply and exterior finish can lap unless you are going to cut it back.

[/reformed custom home framer]

[Art Shirk]

Yeah, I'm wary of thin shims, treated or otherwise and expect they will fail, especially due to the rainfall. Appreciate the info and based on the above I think even I can get this right. I would say its closer to a +/- 2-3'' corner to corner. I'll probably fuck this up in the territory of about 300-400 bucks in materials, 18-26 beers and 4 hours so that flight doesnt sound like a bad idea.

[Foggy_Goggles]

What are the approximate dimensions of the slab?

[Art Shirk]

Slab is 12' X 30' and I am putting a 10' x 7.5' shed on one side of it. Car will be parked on the remaining.

[Foggy_Goggles]

3" in 10' is quite a bit. Custom cut each stud. What is the roof design? Do you need rafters? Consider ordering trusses from the lumber yard.

[RootSkier]

The roof framing thread is for next summer, I bet.

[mecc69]

What side of the slab is the shed on? High side or low side? Across the slope? Going to have water running under your sill if it has water running up against it.

Not an issue? You could consider scribing a cut line on a 4x6 or 4x4, cutting it as one big wedge and attaching it with concrete anchors. The build your walls on top.

Or just form and pour a level variable height concrete wall on top of the slab.

You probably know this, but code likely doesn't apply, so this is really down to how much of a shit you give about a 75 sf shed.