Are you checking/bracing the walls for square/plumb before framing/decking the 2nd story?
I guess I missed that. Suggestion - even if everything is miraculously straight/square/plumb as you're framing, brace it anyway to keep it that way until you sheet/deck it.
Merde De Glace On the Freak When Ski
>>>200 cm Black Bamboo Sidewalled DPS Lotus 120 : Best Skis Ever <<<
Looks nice!
Makes my knees hurt just looking at it though.
Second floor started.
Put back a brace, drove in the rest of the hanger nails.
Put in 2 sheets of 1/2 for the floor so far.
Cut the blocking for the second story floor joists per stiffening suggestions.
And a view down the tree alley to the West from the second floor.
Merde De Glace On the Freak When Ski
>>>200 cm Black Bamboo Sidewalled DPS Lotus 120 : Best Skis Ever <<<
Because rich has nothing to do with money.
I might be a bit worried about using 1/2" for flooring(without knowing your 2nd floor application) . 3/4" t&g is standard around here.
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Gotcha. Even so I might recommend flat blocking your plywood seams. I assume you're 16" o.c for floor joists. And/or maybe use some type of 3/4" flooring to add a bit of structure. You get a fair amount of flex with just 1/2". Just my 2cents as a framer.
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Did the cuts for the blocking on the 2x8 floor joists on 16" centers that only span 10 feet for the "seating" area, 6 foor span for the mattress area . We will add some flooring later, likely t&g pine (yeah it's soft, but there shouldn't be any hardsoled shoes up there).
Merde De Glace On the Freak When Ski
>>>200 cm Black Bamboo Sidewalled DPS Lotus 120 : Best Skis Ever <<<
If you're doing t&g pine flooring you'll be fine then. The blocking I was suggesting is flat 2x between joists where the plywood seam is perpendicular to the joists or where the t&g plywood would add strength(less flex) whereas the mid-span vertical blocking helps reduce any bounce or "wobbling" from having a longer span. I'm sure I explained that clear as mud.
Looks like a fun project Buster. I'm sure you'll enjoy the heck outta it.
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Because rich has nothing to do with money.
Since #1 son is headed off back to kolledg shortly, I had to get the second story big wall up before he left.
First, some wall blocking. The #dreamshack seemed wobblier than I liked, so we're doing some blocking to firm it up. Cuts of precision and romance by our in house chainsaw seamstress.
Then some ceiling blocking pix along plywood seams as suggested.
Then some shots of the front facade with the second story wall up (tarped with rain forecast for tomorrow). Did the wall with 1 uncut header all the way across like the first floor walls. I choose to spend on material a little more to avoid more cuts and fitting.
Next: birdmouth cuts for the rafters.
Merde De Glace On the Freak When Ski
>>>200 cm Black Bamboo Sidewalled DPS Lotus 120 : Best Skis Ever <<<
That's one bomber sauna.
Is it radix panax notoginseng? - splat
This is like hanging yourself but the rope breaks. - DTM
Dude Listen to mtm. He's a marriage counselor at burning man. - subtle plague
Buster
Sorry to be asking this now when you’re so far along!
I’m trying to understand why there is no top plate on the stud wall. How are the studs attached to the rim joist? It looks like a doubled rim joist with a spacer is the top of the framed wall? Did you get confirmation on that detail from someone?
There is a plate on top and bottom of the first floor wall. The second floor top doesn't have one yet.
Merde De Glace On the Freak When Ski
>>>200 cm Black Bamboo Sidewalled DPS Lotus 120 : Best Skis Ever <<<
I see your confusion. It looks like a doubled up rim joist with a plate on top to tie in the corners, then subfloor and 2nd story plate, etc. I’m no architect, but for a shack it should be ok, right? I’d worry about twisting a bit more with those toe nails and get the sheathing on ASAP.
Lots of wood in this thread, good thing dentistry has been considered essential.
Nice retractable
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