It is so nice when you actually find your self back in the water again. I now have surfed as many days in August as I did the entire month of July. Nothing big - small actually.
Chest high and thumping barrels. No one else out. Sheet glass clean. Just a bit of wind swell hitting a shallow sandbar. Oh, how nice it was. And it even looks like we might get a little ground swell in the morning.
I'm hoping this is the turning point, with summer moving on into fall. Swell getting bigger and more consistent. The strong Northwest wind, turning slight and offshore. Cool mornings.
Great fun, but it really only makes you hungry for some real surf.
Bookmarks