Business Suit Style?

[Grange]

I've been accepted into Leadership Academy at work. For this training I will need to wear a suit. I only have one suit that I got for graduation from college. Well the damn thing is too small in the chest. It's a 38S and I now take a 40S. Pants still fit fine in the waist, but the jacket is too damn tight. And I've also been informed it is out of style because it's a double breasted suit.

So I went to a couple stores this weekend to look at suits. I had no idea there was so much difference between suits other than color. Anyway I'm torn on what type of suit to get. Do I go with a classic two-button style or the new three-button style? Will the three button go out of style? What about 0, 1.or 2 vents in the jacket? I'm a fan of pinstripes as long as they don't stick out too much. Finally since I rarely wear a suit can I get a decent suit for under $200.

For me work wear generally entails casual pants or jeans and a t-shirt (short or long sleeved depending on temp.). Hiking boots are nice and rubber boots for when I'm running around in wetlands. So any advise for a Suit Jong other than never wear a suit?

[PassTheDutchie]

Everyone should own at least one suit (that fits) for weddings and funerals. Buy one in navy so that you can wear it to both occasions; plain suits take decades to go out of style. Go to Men's Warehouse or something and drop $300-$400.

[The AD]

Finally since I rarely wear a suit can I get a decent suit for under $200.

I'd say forget about the price (within reason) and buy the suit that looks good on you.

[endlesswntr]

You really aren't going to have too much in the way of options if you're looking to spend under $200. The "new" three button style is not "new" anymore and IMO makes short guys look shorter (I wear the same size.) The two button looks much, much better. If you are looking for something modern and cheap check out H&M or, if there is miraculously one nearby, Zara. Both carry some more slim fitting, good looking, but cheap suits. Definitely avoid the double breasted look unless you have a ton of suits already, not something to wear everyday.

If I were you, I would buy a nice gray, two-button suit with no pleats and whichever vent setup you feel most comfortable with. Or sack up and spend some bank to get a nice one. Just avoid getting sucked in by brand marketing.

[pappag]

Only tall and skinny people should ever wear double-breasted - look at a short or fat person donning this style and you'll see how ridiculous it looks. As for myself, pinstripe / 3-button / double vent. On the buttons, it's sometimes-always-never. Pinstripes should be subtle and thin. You can never go wrong with a dark navy suit with light blue stripes or a dark solid brown. Which ever color you choose, just make sure your shoes mirror it (i.e. do not wear black shoes with a light-colored suit and vice versa). Also, belt should match the shoes. For added bonus, throw a white pocket handkerchief on as well or a color that comes close to matching your tie.

[Art Shirk]

Buy a black or Navy suit as these are standard, wardrobe-foundational suits. I would recommend getting a three button suit. Three button suits have become fairly traditional and will not be a fad. Also, a three button suit elongates the torso and gives the perception of making one taller. Just make sure it fits well; any tailor will help you out. Depending upon your waist, suits are usually made such that the pants are 6 sizes smaller than the jacket, i.e. you need a 40 in the jacket, you get a 34 in the pants. You only other choices are cuff/no cuff (I prefer no); how much break in the pant (I prefer medium); whether you want pleats or not (not for me) ; and finally sleeve length. (I like to show some cuff, so I have my sleeves a bit shorter). Good luck

[lemon boy]

A three piece suit = two suits for the price of 1.2 suits.

Fucking suits. Such a stupid wardrobe item.

[The Dad]

I hear rumors that three-button is waning. Which pisses me off, since at this point, all of my recently-purchased suits are three-button.

That said, given your height, go two-button regardless.

In the inexpensive but still looking good range, if you've got an outlet mall nearby, chances are they've got a Brooks Brothers outlet. My last two suit purchases have been Brooks Stretch, via the outlet. These have several advantages, including (a) relatively cheap, (b) sold as separate but matching jacket and pants (saves on cost of alterations), (c) the addition of the lycra or whatever to the wool means that wrinkles will come out overnight or if you put them in the bathroom while showering (great for travel), and (d) they've got a Brooks label, which never hurts.

[Steven S. Dallas]

If you have just one it should be something conservative; that way it won't go out of style and it will be appropriate for all occasions. Navy or dark gray, with minimal patterning/pinstriping; single-breasted; two or three button. Two button is more classic. I agree that a three-button suit makes short dudes look shorter.

As far as how much you should spend- $200 (if not on sale) is pretty low-end. A cheap suit will look about the same as a fancier one when hanging on the rack, but probably won't fit as well and definitely won't last as long. That's pretty key, really; this is stuff that will tear if you catch the pants pocket on the arm of a chair or something so a little bit of extra stitching goes a long way. You don't need to spend $800 though. Joseph A. Bank has some reasonably priced stuff that holds up well, if there's one around you.

[Platinum Pete]

I've had good luck at Nordstrom Rack.
I concur with the advice on plain suits in grey and navy. Let your "flare" come from your tie, shirt, shoes, cufflinks, watch, pinky ring, tongue piercing, stretched earlobes, and icy grill.
You'd be surprised with how much you can make your suits look different day to day with your shirts, etc. Also, if you're anything like me you will take off your suit jacket about ten minutes into the day and wear it very little until it's time to go home, so mostly people will see your shirt and tie. Don't spill on your pants!
When I was suiting up a lot, I started by buying my shirts at department stores, switched to TJ Max type shit boxes, then found that every couple weeks some very sharp Brooks Brothers shirts were avaiable in my size at Goodwill of all places. The facy shirts, looked better, breathed better, wore longer, stayed looking good between pressings/cleanings, and were $5 -$8 each, freeing up budget for better suits. The extra $$$ spent on suits is worthwhile.

[endlesswntr]

Yeah the Rack is excellent. I've also found some great quality dress shoes at low low prices there. I think they restock on wednesday nights, so thursday is the best day to go.

[mrw]

Cheap suits look cheesy. Plan to drop a minimum of $500 for a decent suit. If you can spend that amount at an outlet you will get more bang for your buck. Your size leads me to recommend a Hugo Boss.

Don't let the store do the alterations. Every guy should have a tailor he trusts. Find one, reward him, remember him at Christmas. Trust me here.

If you are not going to build a wardrobe of suits, get a two button in a dark blue. Don't leave the store without at least 2 good quality shirts and 2 silk ties.

Your shoes are new right???

Dress well

[Viva]

J Bank has these dealys where you get the suit along with an extra pant (different color) and gain a little versatility. This typically starts at $300 or so. Their higher-priced stuff is or markedly better quality, however


Another nice outlet is Off 5th, Saks Fifth Ave's outlet. Some killer deals can be found there, if there's one close to you.

Agree on shirts- you can never have too many.

Also, also, find a place that offers free tailoring for life, so if you get all fat and shit (or skinny and shit), they'll still take care of you and ensure that your threads fit well. My local Jos Banks WILL NOT do this and I no longer buy shirts there.

[Grange]

My shoes are not new, but since I only wear them with the suit they are still in great condition. They are black leather wingtips. Still shiny but not a prom tux shoe shiny. To me they were the best part about wearing a suit. Sounds like Men's warehouse it the place to go.

[mrw]

Another nice outlet is Off 5th, Saks Fifth Ave's outlet. Some killer deals can be found there, if there's one close to you.

That is THE place to shop. I have bought over 15 Armani suits there. The savings are huge. Just remember to stick to name brands. They do fill the shelves with some brand x shit to puff the bottom line.

[Viva]

I have bought over 15 Armani suits there.

What are you, a pimp? NBA player? Donald Trump's personal fluffer?

[13]

i just bought my first suit ever since i decided to go to med school and i don't want to look like a tool at pre-selection interviews. i looked at it as an investment instead of an expenditure.

great for job interviews and of course weddings/funerals.

and damn if the ladies don't love a man in a suit, even as conservative a suit as mine.

[endlesswntr]

That is THE place to shop. I have bought over 15 Armani suits there. The savings are huge. Just remember to stick to name brands. They do fill the shelves with some brand x shit to puff the bottom line.

That is the dumbest shit I've ever heard. If you are dropping money on 15 Armanis, get something worth spending serious cash on. My dad went to Naples and got a Kiton fitted at the factory for less than half of those Armanis, and it's the bar none nicest suit you can find.

The name brands that you see in Saks are mostly crap construction, all taped seams and factory shit. Get something handmade and you'll notice the difference when you're still wearing it in 20 years.

[Grange]

i just bought my first suit ever since i decided to go to med school and i don't want to look like a tool at pre-selection interviews. i looked at it as an investment instead of an expenditure.

great for job interviews and of course weddings/funerals.

and damn if the ladies don't love a man in a suit, even as conservative a suit as mine.

I've had a grand total of three suits in my life. First was my first communion, second was my 8th grade graduation and third was my college graduation. Looks like I'm going to need a fourth. Of coarse this comes at a crappy time. I'm in the process of moving accross the state and didn't really want to spend money on a suit.

[mrw]

What are you, a pimp? NBA player? Donald Trump's personal fluffer?

prior to getting remarried, I had a very extensive social life. Couple that with a lot of grip and grin trips to keep myself on client's A lists and there you go.

15 suits over a few years is not all that many suits when you are living in them both night and day. At one point I had 3 tuxes.

Having just checked my closet, I am down to 8 suits and 7 sport jackets.

[hutash]

The Mens Whorehouse is the place to go. Good quality, reasonable prices, good staff. I have one wedding and funeral suit that I got there. I walked in told them I am not a suit kind of guy, and what I needed. They set me up with a very conservatively cut navy blue wool suit. Still looks just as good 10+ years later.

[runethechamp]

I think a navy blue suit is far less versatile than a dark grey one, and don't get a black suit as your only one (and really, you should have brown shoes with a navy suit, and your nice pair are black). Black is too formal in most business settings. And just get a solid color suit as your first one. Listen to this advice apart from the color:

- Don't get a suit in another fabric than wool
- Don't buy a double breasted suit. Just don't.
- Unless you have HUGE thighs, get flat front pants. And typically, you don't want cuffs at the bottom of flat fronters
- The most important fit is around your shoulders. The arm length and pants are easy to adjust.
- Don't buy anything full price. There's sales and discounts to be had everywhere, and outlet stores are great
- Two buttons on the jacket is probably the safest style, but three isn't that far out there either. I think both will work fine.
- Contrary to other opinions here, jacket arm length isn't where you want to play around with lengths. You want to show 1/2 inch of shirt cuff.
- Pocket squares are cool and give you some extra flare, but if you use one you need to make sure you follow it up everywhere else.
- Always hang your suit on a nice hanger at the end of the day.

Shirts and ties are in the next chapter.

That is the dumbest shit I've ever heard. If you are dropping money on 15 Armanis, get something worth spending serious cash on. My dad went to Naples and got a Kiton fitted at the factory for less than half of those Armanis, and it's the bar none nicest suit you can find.

The name brands that you see in Saks are mostly crap construction, all taped seams and factory shit. Get something handmade and you'll notice the difference when you're still wearing it in 20 years.

And please, Armani might be overrated and a bit overpriced but you're not buying crap if you go with them (same with other brands at Saks). And if you get them at huge discounts, I don't thing there's anything wrong about building your wardrobe with them.

[The AD]

Don't buy anything full price. There's sales and discounts to be had everywhere, and outlet stores are great

I agree with this. Especially if you buy the suit at a department store. Sales knock off a huge % and they are frequent. Only a sucker would pay full price. I imagine places like the Men's Wearhouse sell their suits around what the dept. stores do, but on an everyday basis.

[El Chupacabra]

I didn't like Men's Wearhouse much -- weird atmosphere.

Most of my suits are from Macy's. They run sales all the time, lots of selection, prices acceptable to me. It's hard to spend $300+ on uncomfortable, fragile clothing, that isn't even waterproof/breathable.

[bagtagley]

JoS. A Bank is running a 4th sale. Decent stuff for the price.

Hey, they've got Seersuckers for $99. I hate suits, but I've always wanted one of those.