Road bikes. I need a clue!

**hose-man** · 06-27-2007, 01:11 AM

Hey guys, I'm considering purchasing a road bike. I'm more price conscious than brand aware at this point so I need a little help making sure I don't waste my money. I'm willing to spend enough that I'm out of the low end and shouldn't be wanting for a new bike any time soon.

I'm currently riding my MTB to work & a roady would be a great upgrade. I expect to put 50-80 miles a week on this bike if I get one.

A friend showed me a bike on PricePoint.com that looks pretty good. Ultegra Groupo on a Vincolo Alum frame. Claims to weigh about 19 lbs $1200 + $41=$1241 ship
See it HERE:

I did some more digging and found an Ultegra Equipt Carbon frame by Bottecchia with a carbon crank (compact), includes SPD pedals (i've got spd shoes) and weighs in at 17.5 lbs. $1295 + $45ship= $1340
See it HERE

It looks to me like chosing the carbon bike is a no brainer. I researched the seller & they have a physical address and a lifetime warantee against defect on the entire bike. I spoke to the seller on the phone to get weights on their bikes & they seemed like they have their act together. Their ebay feedback is spotless.

I've found some interesting discussion about both brands in a couple cycling forums and the core of the group says to buy from your local bike shop & not risk the on-line purchase. As a result, no one that actually purchased the bike has posted their review. At least not that I can find.

Assembly & adjustment wise, I've got a friend who's a bike tech & will be building it with me & educating me in the ways of Ultegra. I won't be approaching any LBS with my mailorder bike in need of adjusment.

What do you guys think?

Alternatives?

**upallnight** · 06-27-2007, 01:54 AM

i'm definitely not an expert (only on my 2nd year of road riding), but i went through a similar purchasing decision last year.

some points to consider:
1) frame material is an important consideration. different materials feel different when you ride them, and you would notice if you hop on a few bikes.

1a) carbon is light, but it is also the least durable in that you could harm the frame in a crash and render it useless.

1b) aluminum is not as light, but it's cheaper and harder to destroy. you'd feel more bumps with aluminum than with carbon. a compromise is an alu bike with a carbon fork.

1c) steel is a smooth ride, but it's heavy. it's probably the most durable of the 3...and likely the cheapest.

there are other materials out there, but those are the basics.

ultegra is pretty solid -- it's good stuff, fairly light -- and it doesn't cost the huge premium for the highest level (dura-ace, which only saves you a bit of weight).

for me, i wanted the best frame i could get from a solid manufacturer. this turned out to be an alu frame + carbon fork.

i sacrificed a bit by getting slightly heavier wheels, so i could get all ultegra components. i figured the frame + components would be with me a long time, and as i got better / had more $ i could get a much better set of wheels.

anyway, that's how i approached it. others might have more/better info.

**mntlion** · 06-27-2007, 08:18 AM

be pre-paired to buy some different fitting parts too.

buy from your LBS and the price might be more, but if you need a longer stem, a wider bar, harder seat, lower gears, or help finding out whey your hands are numb, they should be able to help, but will charge you for this. Buy the bike from them, and if the parts are new, you should be able to swap them around N/C. Also they are more likly to help with "I need a ...." issues like cable stretch etc.

Not being a LBS only Natzi, just they do have some advantages.

**The Reverend Floater** · 06-27-2007, 08:20 AM

Yo Hose,

I just went through the same process and ended up buying a cross bike (a Felt, to be exact). I'm not a roady by nature so the cross bike will allow me to dick around on the trails when I want a change from my mtb AND commute. Just my $.02.

**Dromond** · 06-27-2007, 09:00 AM

Originally Posted by upallnight

i sacrificed a bit by getting slightly heavier wheels, so i could get all ultegra components. i figured the frame + components would be with me a long time, and as i got better / had more $ i could get a much better set of wheels.

Also, you could take your old wheels and put burly puncture proof tires on them for commuting. Thus saving your blinged out light wheels (which is pretty much the best bike upgrade you can make) for racing, group rides, or whatever.

**Plakespear** · 06-27-2007, 10:50 AM

go to www.wrenchscience.com and use thier fitting guide. Than check out the specs of any bike you are consiereing purchasing, and see how well the numbers match.

**lph** · 06-27-2007, 10:55 AM

alternatives?

did you have any idea what size frame you are looking for? I have a Trek OCLV carbon frame/fork/ultegra bike, that hasn't seen much use in the last two years that i was thinking about selling.

I think what I have is the silver/blue 2003 trek 5500 oclv 120 frame with ultegra. I ride is so little (no rides in last 2 years) i don't know. I 'think' it is a 58 frame. I will check when I get home. great bike.

anyone have any idea what i would ask for a bike like that? (assuming stock wheels etc.)

**reidhresko** · 06-27-2007, 11:05 AM

that bottechia is a very, very good deal if the frame size is correct and the seller looks to have their shit together. also, since you would be paying with paypal, the purchase is automatically insured. of the two choices you present, you are correct that it is a no brainer. it is true you might destroy the carbon frame more quickly, but the idea is not to lay the bike down at all.

**cinnepa** · 06-27-2007, 11:10 AM

www.coloradocyclist.com

check out their house-brand DOUGLAS FUSION, great bike for $1499, i have one from 5 years ago, still rides great.

**LaBelle23** · 06-27-2007, 01:27 PM

I don't think you'll have the lifetime warranty on the frame since you're the 2nd owner. I believe the warranty stays with the original owner, but could be wrong.

**Particle** · 06-27-2007, 02:45 PM

Originally Posted by The Reverend Floater

Yo Hose,

I just went through the same process and ended up buying a cross bike (a Felt, to be exact). I'm not a roady by nature so the cross bike will allow me to dick around on the trails when I want a change from my mtb AND commute. Just my $.02.

Seconded. I've been really happy with my Jake the Snake:
http://www.konaworld.com/bikes/2k7/J...AKE/index.html

**Tyrone Shoelaces** · 06-27-2007, 02:49 PM

Originally Posted by lph

I think what I have is the silver/blue 2003 trek 5500 oclv 120 frame with ultegra. I ride is so little (no rides in last 2 years) i don't know. I 'think' it is a 58 frame. I will check when I get home. great bike.

I think your ride is an OCLV 110 frame. which is slightly blingier (lighter & stiffer) than OCLV 120. I think I remember this because mine is 120 and remember picking yours up to see the weight difference.

**Conundrum** · 06-27-2007, 03:24 PM

Yeah man,

Cross bike it up. I used to commute from downtown out to by Costco on an x-bike. Now I have one with mtb risers for short rides to the bars because I work out of my house and don't really need the drop bars. My bike will be a bit big for you but you're welcome to swing by and check it out.

Now, if you really want to get into road riding, get some spandex and a road bike.

**uncle crud** · 06-27-2007, 03:51 PM

Man some great info shared here, upallnight's especially.

I was a reasonably serious roadie before I discovered MTBs. Here's what I'd add to the mix of good advice above.

-- Fit is really, really important on a road bike. The position is a bit different from your MTB position, it's more stretched out, your back approaches horizontal when you're in the hooks. And you really need to dial in your seat tube angle and saddle adjustments to find your sweet spot for where your hips want to be relative to your bottom bracket for max efficiency.

-- Be prepared to have some shoulder/neck cramping at first, when you adjust to the more flat-backed position this will go away. At first you're likely to crane your neck upward more than necessary, and eventually you'll learn that you can sorta look out of the tops of your eyeballs, if you know what I mean. Forehead down a bit, eyes rolled a bit upward, looking ahead but not well into the horizon.

If you go to a LBS that has a good rep with the local roadies, they'll help you sort this stuff out. I would 2d mntlion's suggestion of using an LBS, unless you have an experienced and patient friend who is a roadie and is willing to help you with the details in person.