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Thread: binding removal tricks

  1. #1
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    binding removal tricks

    im trying to remove one last toepiece and the thing is epoxyed down good. the screws arent budging and the top is stripping (screws) any idears on how to get them out alternatively?

  2. #2
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    Heat the tail of a file red hot and hold it to the screw to transfer the heat to the screw. If it gets hot enough it should break down the glue some to allow it to come out.
    It's not so much the model year, it's the high mileage or meterage to keep the youth of Canada happy

  3. #3
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    Heat the screw with a soldering iron or gun. That should do the trick.

  4. #4
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    soldering gun works

  5. #5
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    just checking but you are useing a posi drive #3 and not a phylips?

    heat will help a bunch


  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bisnibble View Post
    soldering gun works
    Ok good thinking you guys but my method gets points for being 'ghetto'.
    It's not so much the model year, it's the high mileage or meterage to keep the youth of Canada happy

  7. #7
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    head of the screw doesnt want to turn at all.. maybe a crow bar will do the trick.

  8. #8
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    im using a phillips.. should i be using something different?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by gamma View Post
    im using a phillips.. should i be using something different?
    Yes, Pozidriver (PZ3 instead of PH3, ie. philips).

    And heating the screw with any means necessary is the correct way (once the screw is warm enough, it'll soften the epoxy and you can just unscrew it).
    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier
    You should post naked pictures of this godless heathen.

  10. #10
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    Probably the easiest way is get a pozidriver #3, heat it with a lighter until it's red hot, put it in the screw and wait to turn for a bit. You want that screw to be as hot as you can get it. If that doesn't work, I'd take it to a shop before things get to ugly. If you don't get it hot enough, you might break the head of the screw off and then you are headed to the shop anyway.
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  11. #11
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    Once you get it to the point that you have stripped the head to a nice round shape, get out a dremel and cut a notch in it deep enough to take a flat head screw driver. Be careful but this should help if the screw is destroyed and you can get no more purchse.
    Move along nothing to see here.

  12. #12
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    grind the head of the screw off all the way,

    slide the binding over this,

    vise grips and twist the sucka off



    but heat and the right tool will help a lot too


  13. #13
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    Any of you guys use impact drivers (the cordless kind designed to drive screws)?

    It'll knock that fucker out in half a second.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    Any of you guys use impact drivers (the cordless kind designed to drive screws)?

    It'll knock that fucker out in half a second.
    Wouldn't that also be highly likely to just shear the screw head right off?
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  15. #15
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    I've taken a square bit and a hammer to a stripped screw and mashed a square hole where there was a philips hole
    For sure, you have to be lost to find a place that can't be found, elseways everyone would know where it was

  16. #16
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    if the head is stripped, use an easy out or tap a roberts bit in place, THEN you should be able to get it out (of course, heat it up first)
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Wouldn't that also be highly likely to just shear the screw head right off?
    Shouldn't - impact drivers apply very little torque. Instead they use vibrations to shake the screw loose, and a little bit of torque to turn it.

    But no, I've never used one on skis.

  18. #18
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    Well, I can't say whether it's a good idea, but it works.

  19. #19
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    I have a t-handle driver than I put a Pozi #3 into. I have yet to come across anything I couldn't break loose without heat. But, if I needed heat, I'd go for the soldering iron.

    I'd avoid impact drivers for ski work because of the potential for compression of wood/plastic/etc.

    Never use a Phillips on a Pozi head. It's a sure way to way your day longer as you'll get to learn how to use an Easy-Out.

  20. #20
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    Gamma,

    I just hope you aren't going to use the same hole again for another binding.

  21. #21
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    If you haven't got an impact driver I've used this method.

    1) Place poz #3 in screw hole.
    2) Place shifter (adjustable cresent) or correct size spanner on srew driver handle.
    3) Hold side of screw driver and apply downward force (as much as you can). At the same time slowly introduce rotation force onto spanner.
    4) As rotational force increases, belt the end of the screw driver with a hammer.

    Voila! Impact driver with great rotational ability. This works best with 2 people and you need a traditionally shaped crewdriver handle. New fang-dangled ergonomic ones obviously won't work.
    Last edited by jerr; 03-25-2007 at 04:10 AM.
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  22. #22
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    pour HOT water over it - softens up the epoxy

    simple, and it almost always works
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  23. #23
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    Wink

    I GOT IT !
    but first "stoners"... you got to answer this question ?
    How many Polack's it takes to unscrew a light bulb?

  24. #24
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    dude. that picture. so ghey its beyond soy.

  25. #25
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    Another way to heat up the screw is to run a small drill bit in reverse. Also, when using a combination wrench and screw driver, using a clamp to make sure you have no possibility that the screw driver can pull out will also give you opportunity to apply a lot of torque.

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