Toby, in my four years in Japan, I never went to Hakuba. I was probably a 99% backcountry or slackcountry skier in those days and all my Honshu skiing was bc. So I don't know about the touring options around Hakuba. Knowing what I do know about the Japan Alps, I can tell you that they are way steeper than anything in Hokkaido with only limited exceptions I can think of and you would have a hard time getting to most of those in winter. Some of them have thin depth hoar snowpacks in the Hidaka and on the eastern part of the island. They can give up the goods in spring, but you need to be there and wait for the right storm. Winter access in some of those remote areas is long.
Some of my friends there might want to kill me for saying this, but, as far as the bc opportunities around Niseko, well, they are pretty close to endless. The Niseko range of volcanoes is a line of peaks pretty much identical to Iwao-Nuppuri that extends all the way from Annupuri to the Japan Sea coast about 20 km west of where those pictures were taken. There are multiple easy access points, some of which have lifts that take you up to treeline. It is very old school away from the resorts on Annupuri. The snowfall is epic and unbelievably consistent.
My friends tell me that things are getting more tracked every year off Annupuri, but most of the bootpacking occurs on the frontside. You ride the lift to the highest point and bootpack about 200 meters up from there to the summit. At the summit there will be about 200 Aussies and Japanese standing around and getting ready to ski back down into the ski resorts (there are 5 ski resorts on the mountain). But there is also a backside with two main bowls and that is where these pictures come from. We used to camp at Goshiki Onsen and just tour out from there. The biggest vertical in that area is off the back of Annupuri, but the terrain is wide open and always powder.
Across the valley from the Hirafu side of Annupuri is Yotei-zan, the Fuji of Hokkaido. It isn't skied all that often because of bad weather, but the south side is where you want to go to approach it. The vertical relief from the summit is considerable, more than 1600 meters. I tried from the west side once and it was a very bad mistake. At treeline everything turned to rime and on the way down I triggered an avalanche in a cross-loaded starting zone in trees at 28 degrees that took me for a very scary ride. That isn't to say that would always be the case, but the orientation of the west side to the wind is very favorable to riming above treeline and crossloading below. The south side is the standard route for good reason. The skiing there is outstanding.
I honsetly can't think of anyplace I would rather ski tour than Hokkaido.
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