Head high + Rocky Rights was pretty sic. Surfing with green sea turtles and kissing the coral after milking the wave way to far inside was fun. Oh, and maybe 4 others going right in crystal clear warm water.
Cuatro Casas, Baja does not suck on a good SW swell with the right tide.
Longest ride ever was at Ventura point taking off at the tip of the point. Section after section after section all the way into C street was a serious thigh burner. I had it all to myself too with many surfers looking to drop in on me but thankfully they didn't because I woulda run their asses over.
Maxed out Morro Bay was scary with only a sponger out in the water with me. The only time I felt like I was about to drown when I got caught inside and a huge set rolled through the channel during my paddle back out. Fuggin' huge!
Full moon sessions at Leo with the moon light glowing green through the back of the wave.
Night sessions at Malibu while the phosphorescent glow is pearling up over the nose of your board and trailing behind every stroke or behind the little bait fish swimming by.
Going right at Zeros around X-mas time.
Thanksgiving at the Strand.
Dolphines surfing the waves at Pt. Dume and then catching air out the back at the end of their ride.
Sea otters at Hazards.
If you had a nickel for every nickel he has, you would have a lot of fuckin' nickels!
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