That's the thing with surfing....the constant need to find the perfect wave. With skiing, give us a cold dump of several feet (huh-huh) and we're happy.
But surfing is different. Sure you can paddle out your usual break, be it Ocean Beach, Steamer Lane, Trestles, or some random "real-life" spot but you're gonna be rubbing shoulders with hundreds of your closest friends.
Fuck that. To get the good shit, you need to travel.
Here's some of the best spots I've sampled over my lifetime, in no particular order....
1) Caroline Islands, Western Pacific
FKNA. The best trip of my life. Hooked up with a pro crew consisting of Matt Archbold, Kong Elkerton, Dylan Longbottom, Asher Pacey, and Beau Emerton and good times will be guaranteed.
You know those perfect waves you drew on paper? Now imagine them in real life. For two weeks.
You know it's heavy when even the pros get spanked.
If you have the necessary means for the necessary means for a trip there I highly recommend it.
2) Cloud 9, Philippines
Being of Filipino descent, I figured I had to explore my own culture. The weird paradox set in- I was a stranger in a strange land. No locals surfed at that time, it was all Aussies and Americans. Not having to hassle for waves was good, and I befriended a couple of local fisherman who took me to all these insane nameless other spots that was as good as Cloud 9, if not better.
Two back-to-back typhoons sent solid swell for almost a month straight. With the heavy conditions I ended up breaking 2 out of 3 boards I had.
I bust my stick I shred so hard
'88 World Champ Pottz wasn't too happy when he showed up a month into my trip when the storm was gone and I had to tell him that he "really missed it"
3) Nusa Dua, Bali, Indonesia
My first exotic surf trip as a 15yo grom. I don't know what was better- perfect 6-8 ft rights barreling for a few hundred yards, or the fact that I was staying at the Nusa Dua Beach Hotel at the same time as Elle McPherson and got to watch firsthand her calendar shoot, and even carried on a conversation with her without drooling to much. Mamma fucking Mia.
File photos of said break. My photos of the break and Miss McPherson are in some photo album with the pages stuck together.
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4) "Punta Mango" and "Punta Flores", El Salvador
Sand bottom point breaks with 5 other guys out. Consistent South swells that lasted days if not weeks. Any wave you wanted. If you weren't surfing, you were camping in the jungle, catching your own food, and shaking scorpions out of your sleeping bag.
5) Witch's and Ollie's, Costa Rica
Boat accessed exotica. Roca Bruja, one of the best beachbreaks in the world churning out 4-6 foot barrels, and Ollie's Point one of the most unique points in the world. You're surrounded 270 degrees by land so it feels like you're surfing in a lake with 6-8 foot insane rights seemingly coming out from nowhere. OH YEAH!
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6) North shore Oahu.
Spent a good chunk of time there right after I got shitcanned shortly after Sep 01. Relatively uncrowded times. Scored insane Sunset, Haleiwa, Rocky Point, Lani's and a bunch of other "unknown" spots.
Memories are all in my head. Perfect 8-10 foot Lani's, 10-12' Sunset, seeing fights and haoles ordered to "GET DA FUCK OUTTA DA WATER!" by local heavies Johnny Boy Gomes and Lance Ho'okano, Getting ordered by some mokes to "CATCH DA BEEG SET, BRADDAH!!!!" that you really do not want, but have to take off on and not eat shit on if you want to stay out in da water, Getting sucked out Puaena Point on a rising NW swell at dark, only to be told later that this is Tiger Shark central, Getting any wave you want when surfing with a bunch of mainlanders who think you're local, Checking out Waimea but realizing youforgot to pack your testicles, Club Femme Nu, Club Hubba Hubba...
7) Sydney and points south, Oz.
Home. Too many spots to mention.
My home break, Wombarra Beach
The beach next door, "Sharkies". Don't ask how it got it's name
Sandon Point, 15 minutes south
A typical crowded South Coast peak
Damn I need to do some more travel.
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