Slednecks: good price for this sled?

[Big Blue]

I found this sled and am thinking about going to take a look at it. It's a pretty long drive though, so I don't want to drive all that way if this isn't even worth taking a look at. Anyone have some advice on whether this would be a decent starter sled and what I should check for if I go look at it? I did see the other thread with general recommendations, so I'll look at that stuff, but wondering about specific things for this machine. Thanks. Oh yeah, does efi mean that it doesn't need to be tuned for a specific elevation like carburated sleds do?

1998 Arctic Cat 600 EFI Powder Special - $1500

This sled has everything for deep powder. Low miles with lots of extras. Lexan mountain hood, Power Comander Computer Control, LED Tail Light, and Mountain Bars. The rig has been regularly serviced and has new piston rings, rebuilt stator, rebuilt clutch, new jackshaft bearings, and oil injector has been serviced also. It comes with cover, stock hood, stock h-bar, and hand warmers that are not currently installed. $1,500 OBO

[slippy]

There is a ton of old sleds for around that price or cheaper, no need to drive a long way for that one. How many miles are on it? What length track is it?

[Big Blue]

it's a 136" in track with 2" paddles. 2600 miles. Keep in mind I'm in Moab, so there's not many sleds around nearby. This one is in Cortez, CO, so about two hours away. Not many sled-happy places within a short distance of here unfortunately.

[slippy]

A 144" track is the minimum length you want to buy.

[VC]

I wouldn't buy a powder special.

There are alot of good sleds is salt lake, might be worth the drive (don't know actually how far a drive it is).

It depends what kind of skiing you're doing if you want it to get access to the mountain and then hike, you can go smaller, however if you want to ride to the top you have to remember you are gonna be riding tandem and will be riding with twice the weight.

Best sled in that price range would be a 99 or up Polaris RMK. Like was said 144 or up for track, and 600 minimum preferably 700 or 800. You have to think what you're going to use it for.

[Big Blue]

cool, thanks for the info. I'll keep my eye out for an rmk in my price range.

[Conundrum]

Just for comparison on price. I just bought a 96 vmax 600 for $500. I know it's a shitty sled but we'll only be towing in on the flats so it will work...especially for $500.

[Big Blue]

yeah, it seems like my price range is right in the middle between starter sled and full on mtn sled. I'm kind of thinking that because I probably can't afford what I really want (8-900cc, long track, '01-02 model) I might be better off spending less and getting a sled that I can learn on and use for towing on the flats. Then try to sell it at the end of the season and save up to buy something bigger next year. I still have my fingers crossed for finding a good quality sled in the $2000 range though.

[BakerBoy]

Just remember, if your budget is so low that you're not able to spend $500 extra or more to get a better sled, you probably won't be able to pay for the oil, gas, and all sorts of other shit that's going to break over the course of a winter.

[Big Blue]

Alright, what about this one? It has some mods done to it, but nothing too severe. It's got some updated but still stock parts as well:

98 RMK 600 chassis with a 700 non valve motor, 824 jugs.
7 rides on complete rebuild with all Pure Polaris Parts and gaskets/O-Rings etc.
Everything from the jugs up is polished and powder coated clear when rebuilt.
824 jugs with mild porting
timing advanced
40mm rack carbs
SLP twins
Mountain Fit Hood, Wedge to Gen 2 conversion type (saves 25 pounds with out the gage pod)
Digitron with seperate EGTs, water temp, tach, memory play back, and can be plugged into your lap top to see the data for the last 2 hours of throttle time.
Gravity Worx Lefty and Cables etc (of course)
151
Side Hiller 2s
No sway bar

Runs really strong, Exelent Condition

$2,000 Firm

[freaks~in~creeks]

dood if you dont want to spend lots of money on repairs, buy a SKI DOO
theres a reason that sled your looking at is all modded out...cuz it didnt do what t he owner wanted stock , like a doo will
buy a 700 144 at minimum...151 summit 800 is best bet

[BakerBoy]

Alright, what about this one? It has some mods done to it, but nothing too severe. It's got some updated but still stock parts as well:

98 RMK 600 chassis with a 700 non valve motor, 824 jugs.
7 rides on complete rebuild with all Pure Polaris Parts and gaskets/O-Rings etc.
Everything from the jugs up is polished and powder coated clear when rebuilt.
824 jugs with mild porting
timing advanced
40mm rack carbs
SLP twins
Mountain Fit Hood, Wedge to Gen 2 conversion type (saves 25 pounds with out the gage pod)
Digitron with seperate EGTs, water temp, tach, memory play back, and can be plugged into your lap top to see the data for the last 2 hours of throttle time.
Gravity Worx Lefty and Cables etc (of course)
151
Side Hiller 2s
No sway bar

Runs really strong, Exelent Condition

$2,000 Firm

Not much mods?! The engine has been stripped down to the block, the tunnel has been extended to accomodate a longer track, and most of the original body work and gauges have been swapped out. The only real thing not listed is upgraded suspension components, and different exhaust... That sled probably consists of 75% aftermarket parts.

More important than price are the miles on your sled. Most sleds run problem-free for the first 4000 miles, then you start paying to fix things quickly. Mod sleds are far more expensive to fix, are more finicky to get dialed in, and tend to be a pain in the butt if you don't know what you are doing.

Who knows how the guy ran his sled before, but one doesn't usually mod a sled to drive it like a grandma.

[slippy]

Try to buy a stock sled that has had no or little modifications. Stock sleds run much longer and modded sleds are terrible for a first-timer, or for a mechanical hack like me. Trying to figure out what mod is causing what problem is expensive, and modded sleds always break down eventually.