The chainsaw thread...

**Meadow Skipper** · 08-19-2016, 11:48 AM

One of these always worked for me - keeps the file at the right height and has (very useful) marks to get the angle correct:

Don't forget to get a depth gauge and flat file for the rakers.

**~mikey b** · 08-19-2016, 02:04 PM

^^those there^^

**XXX-er** · 08-19-2016, 02:16 PM

I've used that one and still fucked it up but the one I linked to is idiot proof

**Meadow Skipper** · 08-19-2016, 06:35 PM

Originally Posted by XXX-er

I've used that one and still fucked it up but the one I linked to is idiot proof

I have to say that when I click on your link I don't see any sharpening tool other than a raker depth gauge. I tried a different browser, no luck. Do you have a better link for the idiot-proof sharpening tool that you're talking about?

Is it something like this?

**XXX-er** · 08-19-2016, 07:10 PM

http://www.husqvarna.com/ca/en/fores...nation-gauges/

yup this^^ easy enough to carry in a shirt pocket

**Meadow Skipper** · 08-19-2016, 11:46 PM

Originally Posted by XXX-er

http://www.husqvarna.com/ca/en/fores...nation-gauges/

yup this^^ easy enough to carry in a shirt pocket

Oh shit, I didn't realize that was for filing the teeth too. Interesting. I've never seen that.

**XXX-er** · 08-20-2016, 04:57 PM

yeah .

the file holder in your picture has the handy marks to help you get the right angle but its still possible to fuck it up

the guide in my link you put on the bar/chain (make sure the arrows point forward) and run the file on the plastic rollers ... idiot proof so far

**~mikey b** · 08-20-2016, 05:26 PM

http://youtu.be/HonJ4aMGBiA

**Meadow Skipper** · 08-20-2016, 07:20 PM

Originally Posted by XXX-er

yeah .

the file holder in your picture has the handy marks to help you get the right angle but its still possible to fuck it up

the guide in my link you put on the bar/chain (make sure the arrows point forward) and run the file on the plastic rollers ... idiot proof so far

Oh, I can fuck pretty much anything up. I'd like to check that thing out sometime.

**bodywhomper** · 09-23-2016, 10:30 PM

**bodywhomper** · 10-10-2016, 12:41 PM

need advice:
i've been patiently working to getting my ms361 running correctly (bought used - discussed upthread). i've recently replace the clutch, worm gear, needle bearings, and clutch drum. the clutch was super worn-out and the drum was worn at the very center, where it's always in contact with the clutch. clutch and drum are OEM.

i reassembled the saw, fired it up and it would die when i opened the throttle. there's a new fuel hose, too. this wasn't a problem before replacing the clutch drum. this seems like the "H" setting is an issue on the carb to me. Advice given to me was that this was likely too lean a setting and the carb needs to be tuned. i've apparently appropriately adjusted one other carb in my life on my ms27X, which does not have an "h" setting. I read-up a bit, pulled the limiter caps off the carb, set the "L" and "H" adjustment screws at a recommended starting point, warmed up the saw, made some adjustments that seems pretty good (idle seemed right, no chain movement at idle, acceleration, seemed good, maybe a little too rich on the "h"), then set off to do some sawing. After finishing my third or fourth 20"-ish round, the saw won't drop to an idle, the chain is whizzing (moving fast). I rev the engine a few time, still whizzing. I make another cut into my log, still whizzing afterwards. i messed with the idle adjustment to no avail, though I was in a bit of a rush by then....

thoughts?

my first thought is that i need to breakdown the carb and give it a more thorough cleaning than i had previously done (cursing at ethanol the entire time). my second thought is that there's some sort of break-in with the new clutch and clutch drum, but I have not seen this mentioned anywhere online.

cheers

**Todd Zander** · 10-10-2016, 05:13 PM

Perhaps a piece of debris was caught in the h needle and by turning it out enough it passed through while also allowing the proper amount of fuel. Try dialing down the h again.

**Powder Ho** · 10-10-2016, 05:24 PM

Originally Posted by bodywhomper

need advice:
i've been patiently working to getting my ms361 running correctly (bought used - discussed upthread). i've recently replace the clutch, worm gear, needle bearings, and clutch drum. the clutch was super worn-out and the drum was worn at the very center, where it's always in contact with the clutch. clutch and drum are OEM.

i reassembled the saw, fired it up and it would die when i opened the throttle. there's a new fuel hose, too. this wasn't a problem before replacing the clutch drum. this seems like the "H" setting is an issue on the carb to me. Advice given to me was that this was likely too lean a setting and the carb needs to be tuned. i've apparently appropriately adjusted one other carb in my life on my ms27X, which does not have an "h" setting. I read-up a bit, pulled the limiter caps off the carb, set the "L" and "H" adjustment screws at a recommended starting point, warmed up the saw, made some adjustments that seems pretty good (idle seemed right, no chain movement at idle, acceleration, seemed good, maybe a little too rich on the "h"), then set off to do some sawing. After finishing my third or fourth 20"-ish round, the saw won't drop to an idle, the chain is whizzing (moving fast). I rev the engine a few time, still whizzing. I make another cut into my log, still whizzing afterwards. i messed with the idle adjustment to no avail, though I was in a bit of a rush by then....

thoughts?

my first thought is that i need to breakdown the carb and give it a more thorough cleaning than i had previously done (cursing at ethanol the entire time). my second thought is that there's some sort of break-in with the new clutch and clutch drum, but I have not seen this mentioned anywhere online.

cheers

My 460 did that last summer. It turned out to be weak clutch springs.
Replaced all three retuned and it ran great.

**bodywhomper** · 10-10-2016, 06:04 PM

Thanks for the responses. The clutch and springs are brand new oem. Less than a tank of gas on them. The previous clutch springs were super fucked. With the old clutch, the idle was all over the place.

New clutch (including springs) and drum, warm up saw, tune carb and idle where it seemed good. After several long cuts, it no longer idles without rapid chain spinning. I have not messed with it sense and am stuck inside until after dark.

**Meadow Skipper** · 10-10-2016, 06:31 PM

Have you adjusted the L screw on the carb?

**bodywhomper** · 10-10-2016, 06:53 PM

Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper

Have you adjusted the L screw on the carb?

Yes. I was following the strategy here. http://web.archive.org/web/200512280...om/sawtune.htm

Before the weirdness, I was going to live with the potentially overly rich "h" setting until I catch my overly busy neighbor, who's a mechanic.

Update, I had a brief 10 minute window. Turns out the gas tank was empty.... perhaps that was the problem?.....

I "reset" the carb setting and will go through the tuning stuff again before I start to tear into the machine again. Unless it's a clear sign of another problem.

**XXX-er** · 10-10-2016, 08:14 PM

Oh yeah important pro tip from my chain saw course, set the idle speed but otherwise... Don't fuck with those screws

**Meadow Skipper** · 10-10-2016, 08:41 PM

Oh. Sometimes when the fuel is running out a saw will run like you described.

**bodywhomper** · 10-10-2016, 09:29 PM

Yea. Dumb mistake (i hope). Still learning how long a tank lasts on that saw. Easiest troubleshooting ive had for that saw so far.

Xxx-er, I'm hoping to not have to mess with those setting soon. My new little saw doesn't have user adjustments for the carb.

**bodywhomper** · 10-12-2016, 09:58 PM

Got it working again. The carb is probably richer than necessary for the "h" setting, but it's cutting and bucking my 3-foot diameter logs the the utility left behind. Ran two tanks of fuel on it after work today. Yeah!!!

Mike, have you used that Alaskan mill? We decided not to mill any of your pines? Unfortunately, it seems that all of our logs are "checked" and will make for poor lumber (according to the two millers that I spoke to), which is too bad.

**~mikey b** · 10-12-2016, 10:37 PM

No mine is too shitty to mill, too.

**bodywhomper** · 10-12-2016, 10:53 PM

My neighbor had some of his milled. I haven't had a chance to check out the results.

I'm going to at least make a bench with backrest with one of my logs and a few planters. Heating the house with the rest.

**Timberridge** · 10-13-2016, 07:05 AM

Holleee crap. I'm trying to cut up some small trees 10"-12" dia near the house and my 450 Rancher is just struggling and smoking chains in the stuff. I pull out the 372XP and its doing a bit better but dulling chains like crazy. The chain oilers are on max. I'm using a Oregon 73 low kick chain on both saws.

Any chain suggestions on how to get this stuff carved up faster or am I doomed? From the tree guide this seems to be American hornbeam. Nasty stuff.

**TAFKALVS** · 10-13-2016, 07:27 AM

Originally Posted by Timberridge

Holleee crap. I'm trying to cut up some small trees 10"-12" dia near the house and my 450 Rancher is just struggling and smoking chains in the stuff. I pull out the 372XP and its doing a bit better but dulling chains like crazy. The chain oilers are on max. I'm using a Oregon 73 low kick chain on both saws.

Any chain suggestions on how to get this stuff carved up faster or am I doomed? From the tree guide this seems to be American hornbeam. Nasty stuff.

Get a full skip chain.