^^^The 880 is a fucking legend. Spend the $$. Capital investment.
^^^The 880 is a fucking legend. Spend the $$. Capital investment.
That's slangblade kountry rite t'ere, pardner....
You'd get a much more beneficial and looser workout with a kaiser blade, and a 4" lodgepole that's growing moderately fast will take you two or three easy whacks if you can get a clean swing to "V" the base of the tree and push or pull it over.
A 12" mill bastard file will put an edge on a k-blade that can shave hair. Key to that is proper sharpening stroke, and the key to doing that safely is your position relative to the blade. If I don't have anything better, I jam the handle in the wheelwell of a truck, and straddle and sit on it if I have to. Then I can two-hand the file toward me like it's a drawknife, and make a beveled edge that wedges a little behind the cut and doesn't bind as bad if you don't pass through all the wood. You sharpen the business sides and the inside of the brush hook. Leave the front tip dull.
A day of swinging a jo-blade will take very little out that a couple beers won't put right back. A big saw in thick shit is a man-killer.
Last edited by highangle; 04-29-2017 at 02:51 PM.
Machete. Educate me. I go to the hardware store and see a fiskar for $35 and a Coleman for $15.
:P
Pretty lame question, eh?
Of course, I look on amazon and the fiskars blade is like $10 cheaper. Grrrr.
I can already tell this is gonna become a quiver thing.
On the chainsaw front, I've having fun lately bucking large-ish trunks (>32" diameter) that are stuck and wedged amongst standing trees, stumps, or other felled trunks and can't be rolled. Slow going.
They both suck balls. A rubber ergonomic grippy handle will take the skin off your hand. Any handle you have to stick your fingers in is also made to fuck up a jong's whackin' hand before lunchtime.
You want hard plastic or smooth wood. A lanyard tang is helpful for starters, but after a while, a lanyard on a machete is about as useful as a lanyard on a pistol.
You don't want a super heavy blade or high carbon steel either. 20 or 22" is about max length too. 24" machetes are floppy and bendy. 18" is a little short.
Mild steel sharpens good, even though it'll probably have chunks of hard impurities and a factory temper you'll have to lose before it gets good. Any light or bright steel good enough to sharpen is going to be too stiff, too heavy, or too expensive to make a good machete.
Sheaths are good, but you don't need leather unless you mount it on a tool belt you wear every day. Surveyors paint the blades so they can find them in the woods after they jab them into the ground, catch their breath, get a bellywash, set a traverse nail, solve a BBX, take a piss, and talk shit about the boss.
Collins Legitimus are about the best, but it seems they've become collectors items...
These are good machetes with proper handles:
http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/pr...sue%20Machetes
Last edited by highangle; 04-30-2017 at 02:37 AM.
I've been trying to justify grabbing one of these for a while now: http://www.mikejonesknifeandtool.com/bushfucker/
Blogging at www.kootenayskier.wordpress.com
You need to be careful using a machete, otherwise you might cut your wiener off.
Your dog just ate an avocado!
Honestly for a relatively cheap machete you'd be hard pressed to beat a cold steel kukri for around $30. Great weight, decent blades, good handles and I love the kukri balance and swing for real chopping and limbing. I have a literal quiver of machetes including heavier ones I made myself, and those are great performers for what they cost. Heck even the nicer ones they make with SK5 blades can be found for under $200.
If you want to go bigger get one of their 2 handed broadhead machetes. They're cheap and have kind of flimsy blades for the amount of force they're designed to employ but they do fuckin WORK. Wish they had thicker blades but whatever, we blast then into dirt chopping shit and they're easy enough to straighten and sharpen. Never broke one either fwiw.
**sorry for cunting up the chainsaw thread with machete talk**
Thanks for the info! Ontario, cold steel, and that British one that starts with an "M" were on my short list. My 11 yo is very excited.... almost too excited....
You must be a mohel? A Sandvik (aka Swedish brush axe) is a way safer tool that sucks balls too.
A guy told me a story about his first day on a seismic crew in the Arctic... Someone handed him a Sandvik and put him to work clearing some alders in a depression in the ground. He said his second whack went through a branch, through his boot, and wedged itself about two inches into his foot, right past where the big and first toe join.
He said after about an hour, when the bugs were really getting thick from the smell of all that blood, the heli flew over and spotted him laying there. The crew thought he was fucking off, and made the heli land so they could all boil out and explain they didn't do things that way on that crew...
When they got there, they saw he was fucked up and laying in a half gallon of blood. One of the crew looked over the lip of the little ravine and said, "Way to go, Fuckup! You just cost us a half day."
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
If I want a fighting knife, I'll go for a Kbar or a Sharpfinger. I like drop points for pulling the hair off ungulates, and I can skin a seal pretty clean with a 6" Russell Green River in about as much time as it takes you to microwave an Oscar Meyer wiener.
A boy who works for me got a Wilson Supergrade from the other boys in his PJ unit a couple of deployments ago. Whenever I want to know what a fkn badass looks like, I stick my head in his office.
He's a Stihl man, BTW. Dyed in the wool. Pretty good with a machete too, but he didn't learn that in the Air Force. I taught him.
Last edited by highangle; 04-30-2017 at 04:14 PM.
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d.php?t=311381
Psst.... highangle, made a thread for you.
A appropriately sized saw with an appropriate bar length in the hands of a skilled operator is much, much more efficient than a manual tool. If contract thinning crews could get production with a $40 manual tool than a $600 saw, they would. They don't.
With a bar that long TacocaT is probably just bumping the power head of that saw with his thigh to make cuts.
Although, this line of discussion is making me want to get a machete for my truck...
My survey crews only break out their saws when they have to. It increases their work, increases liability, and I make them tape their blowout kits to the backs of their helmets.
Is a " blow out kit " the compression bandage?
A lot of guys put them in the helmet so we had an instructor tell us not to put em in the helmet, his reason was you get into a situation where you are pinned/down if the helmet has fallen off your compression bandage is in the helmet which you now can't reach which made sense to me ... I stuff it in a pocket
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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