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Thread: The chainsaw thread...

  1. #651
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    52
    Quote Originally Posted by kootenayskier View Post
    If you're running a saw that intensively, you should be using a pro-model such as 261. 7-8 chains a week seems crazy. When I'm putting in 40 hour weeks clearing windfall in the Spring, a chain lasts me at least a week, doing a minor touch-up (half a file stroke) each refill.
    I agree. Chains last a long time if you don't hit the dirt, and you run a file over the teeth with every gas and oil refill. It only take a couple minutes to touch up the chain on refills.

  2. #652
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    Mar 2008
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    I am assuming you got the right raker Guage for your chain of course but that's how they work
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  3. #653
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    Aug 2006
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    Im pretty sure i got the right kit https://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...-531300080.axd

    The gauge is different than the others and no useful instructions

  4. #654
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    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    Im pretty sure i got the right kit https://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...-531300080.axd

    The gauge is different than the others and no useful instructions
    very true!! the instructions for this guage ^^ are sketchy and that is for a 3/8ths chain

    the raker guage works ok once you figure it out but I filed thru it so I bought a seperate guage which I leave at home cuz I don't file rakers every time

    basicly the raker guage you bought sits on top of 2 teeth and exposes a certain amount of raker below & between the 2 teeth to file off
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  5. #655
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    Aug 2006
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    Thanks. That was my thought about how to use it, too (as in my picture ). It was just different than the other versions of the tool. It also doesn't seem to do that progressive angle thing that the other guides do from husky.

    I think this episode of the rocket science of chain sharpening is over

  6. #656
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    Jun 2007
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    Cape Cod
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    759
    Looking for some advice on what would be a good saw for use on my property. I've got a little over two acres wooded and would like a saw to buck and limb fallen trees for both firewood and to clear out the dead trees blocking paths and other areas. Its mostly pine, with a few maples. I don't plan on dropping anything to be honest, just want to clean-up and to supplement my wood pile.

    A dozen years ago I spent a few summers on a trail crew at a resort running a saw, we used Stihl's but I can't remember the model for the life of me. I'd like to buy something that will last and won't give me any issues. Keeping it around $400 would be best, thanks.

  7. #657
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    Jul 2016
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    Mostly the Elks, mostly.
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    I love cutting. Loyal to Stihl.

    I assume you're looking for a new saw?

    If small light saw with 14" bar is workable, a 193 CE could interest you. If you'll need a longer bar/more power take a look at the 271 (2x the power of a 193), both about 400 american dollars I think. 271 will be heavier.

    I cut with an 18" 261 type in the trade and loved it. Easy to run all day. Great balance of weight and power, over 600 though.
    I run a 25" 362 most often and love it. Bigger and spendier yet though.

    Whatever you decide, make the acquaintance of a chainsaw whisperer, to tune the saw to your elevation. Bring it in annually (at minimum) for love. Run sharp chains. Stihl's last forever.
    Happy cutting!

  8. #658
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sagamoron View Post
    Looking for some advice on what would be a good saw for use on my property. I've got a little over two acres wooded and would like a saw to buck and limb fallen trees for both firewood and to clear out the dead trees blocking paths and other areas. Its mostly pine, with a few maples. I don't plan on dropping anything to be honest, just want to clean-up and to supplement my wood pile.

    A dozen years ago I spent a few summers on a trail crew at a resort running a saw, we used Stihl's but I can't remember the model for the life of me. I'd like to buy something that will last and won't give me any issues. Keeping it around $400 would be best, thanks.
    Are you going to buy new? Then go to your local reputable dealer and get the biggest Stihl or Husqvarna that fits your budget.

  9. #659
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    Jun 2007
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    Yes Buying new. There is a dealer of both by my house, I'll swing by there and check them out

  10. #660
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    Nov 2006
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    If there's a good dealer nearby, look at Echo saws too. You'll likely get more saw for your money than husky or stihl.

  11. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sagamoron View Post
    Looking for some advice on what would be a good saw for use on my property. I've got a little over two acres wooded and would like a saw to buck and limb fallen trees for both firewood and to clear out the dead trees blocking paths and other areas. Its mostly pine, with a few maples. I don't plan on dropping anything to be honest, just want to clean-up and to supplement my wood pile.

    A dozen years ago I spent a few summers on a trail crew at a resort running a saw, we used Stihl's but I can't remember the model for the life of me. I'd like to buy something that will last and won't give me any issues. Keeping it around $400 would be best, thanks.
    Sthil vs Husky is like Ford vs Chevy but whats a bigger deal IMO is to buy a pro or forestry quality saw

    they have metal engine cases instead of plastic, they rev higher, they have more HP and will last longer

    they are also more money but you won't be burning a pro saw out and buying new one
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  12. #662
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    May 2009
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    Husky 455, not pro, but effective and dependable

  13. #663
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by kai_ski View Post
    If there's a good dealer nearby, look at Echo saws too. You'll likely get more saw for your money than husky or stihl.
    This is good advice. Some asshole stole my CS 510 this fall. I loved that saw. It was way better built than comparably priced Stihl or Husky. 13 years old and ran like new, started every time first or second pull.

  14. #664
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    Mar 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by AaronWright View Post
    This is good advice. Some asshole stole my CS 510 this fall. I loved that saw. It was way better built than comparably priced Stihl or Husky. 13 years old and ran like new, started every time first or second pull.
    I have a late 90's husky 55 that I feel this way about. Not a Rancher or 455. It's a metal cased saw, but not pro grade. The thing has worked flawlessly for me for two decades. I can always count on it firing right up

  15. #665
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    Nov 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by AaronWright View Post
    This is good advice. Some asshole stole my CS 510 this fall. I loved that saw. It was way better built than comparably priced Stihl or Husky. 13 years old and ran like new, started every time first or second pull.
    That sucks. I picked up a NOS cs530 this fall.

    Did you do any mods or tuning to open up the 510?

  16. #666
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    My chaps are on their last legs and I'm thinking of going the pant route. Anyone have kevlar pants or coat? Recommendations?

  17. #667
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    Sep 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by acinpdx View Post
    Husky 455, not pro, but effective and dependable
    I have the 450, it's heavy and it does not rev high enough, bomb proof, always starts. I've had it 10 years

  18. #668
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    Quote Originally Posted by steepconcrete View Post
    My chaps are on their last legs and I'm thinking of going the pant route. Anyone have kevlar pants or coat? Recommendations?
    you can fix the outer nylon with AQS but we were told once the kevlar is snagged pants or chaps should be replaced and make sure they have the chainspeed rating for whatever you are using

    I'm a skinny fucker so my chaps are always trying to fall down

    I would think you wana find a good fit ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  19. #669
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    Aug 2006
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    9,712
    back to sharpening rocket science: baileys claims that this roller guide is not for skiptooth chains, but i've seen other retailers clearly state the opposite. anybody have opinions/knowledge?

    chain type question: chisel or semi chisel comp chain for my medium-sized saw.
    my ms361 looks to be up and running well (finally). i'll likely soon mod the muffler because it looks really helpful with performance, is relatively cheap, and super easy and fast to do using a dremmel and husky deflector/screen. my current major use of the saw will be bucking all the big pine logs laying around my property. the saw came with a chisel skiptooth chain and 24" bar. that seems like a good type of chain to use for the big long cuts that i'll be doing a lot of in the near term.

    i want to get a comp chain or two, also, for more general activities. one up-and-coming/recurrent task is clearing out dead manzanita on my property and harvesting dead/downed oak and madrone belonging to a friend. chisel or semi-chisel best for this? i was leaning towards semi-chisel.

    thanks

  20. #670
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    you can fix the outer nylon with AQS but we were told once the kevlar is snagged pants or chaps should be replaced and make sure they have the chainspeed rating for whatever you are using

    I'm a skinny fucker so my chaps are always trying to fall down

    I would think you wana find a good fit ?
    Yea I'm looking at fit and durability. Also need new boots...

  21. #671
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    Jan 2004
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    18,828
    New boots? You can spend almost as much as buying ski boots...

    White's, Nick's, Hawthorne, WESCO, Red Wing. Just like ski boots, if you're serious and will be walking in them a lot, not just standing there cutting, go to a good boot fitter and get measured and get proper boots. I still have my 25 year old Wescos as back up to my 10 year old Whites.
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  22. #672
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    Mar 2010
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    Poulan and their fucking proprietary carb mixture adjustment screws! Bastards! I guess for me it's time for another Husqvarna. Last time I lucked out and got a 1960s vintage old Husky with 36" bar at a pawn shop. The thing had no bells and whistles and ran perfectly for nearly 15 years (plus the many decades of use by whatever previous owner(s)). Now, I've gone through two crappy poulans (basically craftsman) in two years due to a multiplicity of issues.

    Lesson learned: Go Husky or don't go at all. (Although I don't think the new Husqvarnas will last 40 years like my previous husky did.

  23. #673
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alaskan Rover View Post
    Poulan and their fucking proprietary carb mixture adjustment screws! Bastards! I guess for me it's time for another Husqvarna. Last time I lucked out and got a 1960s vintage old Husky with 36" bar at a pawn shop. The thing had no bells and whistles and ran perfectly for nearly 15 years (plus the many decades of use by whatever previous owner(s)). Now, I've gone through two crappy poulans (basically craftsman) in two years due to a multiplicity of issues.

    Lesson learned: Go Husky or don't go at all. (Although I don't think the new Husqvarnas will last 40 years like my previous husky did.
    Bastards? if you bought some cheap POS isnt that on you ?

    Husky or Sthil is like ford vs chevy there ain't that much difference between brands and frankly they all look the same, maybe Dolmar or Echo are good but there arent any dealers around here so I never see them

    IMO what you really wana do is go for a pro grade forestry saw from a dealer close to you where you can get support

    As opposed to a homeowner saw the Pro has more power, higher chain speed, magnesium cases instead of plastic

    yeah the pro grade saws are expensive but when I bought a pro saw it cost about the same as 3 poulans and when you buy a cheap saw you get the shittty quality of life at least until they die a premature death and you buy a real saw

    I have put a pro sthil next to a homeowner sthil to buck a big stack of fire wood and its easy to tell the difference

    AND btw I am pretty sure Poulan is one of the brands that is made by Husky
    Last edited by XXX-er; 03-19-2017 at 09:48 PM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  24. #674
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    Dec 2012
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    I can still smell Poutine.
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    Some people can't get the hang of starting a Stihl. So there's that. Helps to read the owners' manual. I want whatever saw runs and does the job it is supposed to do.
    I see hydraulic turtles.

  25. #675
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    Mar 2008
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    Yeah I got a buddy who couldn't get the hang of starting his Husky, with a cold Sthil I go full choke till it barks once then go half choke ... its not the space shuttle eh ?

    runs and does the job, so for how long and how well ... the reasons why you might wana buy a pro saw ?
    Last edited by XXX-er; 03-21-2017 at 11:07 AM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

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