Got an email from my homeboys charging a secret local break right in front of my Oz beach pad. Wish I was getting some of that swell right now. Summer in SF blows harder than a transvestite prostitute in the Castro.
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Yo Punani
Fuck we have been getting some sickkkkkkkkk waves, been surfing Sandon and Headies heaps lately.
Fuck the other weekend you would have loved it, Headies solid 8 feet by myself south east swell. It was really fun and big drops, got some barrels too it was sweet.
Saturday arvo the bullshit swell was nearing its peak. Me and Blake took on some medium sized waves at ___CENSORED___ which was fucken off its nut on the weekend. We had over two hours in classic light offshore conditions. Blake kept the local grommets on edge by fading left and hooking it round to get a solid racing right across the front of the semi exposed reef....
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(Edit [pissing contest] I was first dragged out at this break cranking at 8-10 foot kicking and screaming at age 13, on a 5'10" board. It holds a special place in my heart[/pissing contest]
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