The Arches Saga continues

[edg]

http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/113108

To summarize :

No new permanent climbing hardware may be installed in any fixed location. If an
existing bolt or other hardware item is unsafe, it may be replaced. This will limit all
climbing to existing routes or new routes not requiring placement of fixed anchors.

Climbing anchors and/or protection points may not be placed with the use of a hammer
except to replace existing belay and rappel anchors and bolts on existing routes, or for
emergency self-rescue.

edg

[Trackhead]

According to Laura, the NPS is getting calls and letters from people asking her to ban climbing in the park. Therefore it is important for climbers to write in and represent their desires and interests to balance out the non-climbers that are asking for a total ban. …

Thanks again, you fucking asshole.

[JoshP]

Canyonlands also has a no new anchor rule. So great story time:

There was an article in Alpinist, I believe it was issue 3 (not positive). Steve "Crusher" Bartlett (scary desert tower legend), and a couple of his buddies put a up a new route in Monument Basin, off of the White Rim in Canyonlands.

To get around the no new anchor rule, they hauled up two by fours, and a saw. They cut the wood to size, and spanned a notch on the top of the tower they climbed, rapped off of the two by fours, and then yanked the whole contraption down. Left nothing but a little chalk on the tower.

Sorry about the thread hijack

[smolakian]

Personally, I think hauling up a wing and paragliding down would be the sickest way to go.

[Danno]

In the "beating a dead horse" category...

Ok, from that thread there is this:

So prior to 9 May 2006, this was all the Arches National Park website had to say about about climbing, in its “Regulations” section:

“Climbing

“The rock at Arches offers excellent climbing opportunities, despite its sandy nature. Most climbing routes in the park require advanced techniques. Permits are not required, unless the trip involves an overnight stay in the backcountry. It the responsibility of all climbers to know and obey the following park regulations:

“1. Use of motorized drills is prohibited.
2. Climbing is prohibited on any arch identified on current USGS 7.5 minute topographical maps; on Balanced Rock year-round; on Bubo from January 1st to June 30th; on Industrial Disease on the Devil Dog Spire from January 1st to June 30th.
3. The use of chalk for climbing must be of a color which blends with the native rock.
4. Climbers are encouraged to employ clean-climbing ethics, leave dull-colored webbing when recovery is impossible, and access climbing routes via established trails, slickrock or sandy washes.”
- from http://www.nps.gov/arch/regs.htm

Now, for whatever reason the NPS has determined that its regs were too ambiguous to prosecute, but I really don't get how the bolded part leaves any doubt as to whether this was ok or not. Nobody has yet explained that to me.

[cj001f]

Now, for whatever reason the NPS has determined that its regs were too ambiguous to prosecute, but I really don't get how the bolded part leaves any doubt as to whether this was ok or not. Nobody has yet explained that to me.

Thanks for yet another thread edg, the stupidity to buried right above your own post in the other one?