short alpine binding screws?

[upallnight]

I need at least 12 short binding screws (20 would be ideal), and I'm wondering if someone can help out.

I'm looking for some that measure 3/8" (about 9.5mm) from end to end, or 6-7mm of tread depth.

A #3 Pozidrive flathead screw similar to these would be ideal:

The folks at Tognar (where that image is from) told me they sell only snowboard screws...and that they cannot get alpine binding screws for sale, otherwise I'd buy them from there. Ugh.

Can anyone help? What can I do for you in return?

[Conundrum]

Those are machine screws made for inserts. You don't want the ones that look like those if they are going to be going into the ski unless you are using inserts. You want the ones with the pointy tips and more aggressive threads (wood screw). I'll see if I can round some up.

[upallnight]

Those are machine screws made for inserts. You don't want the ones that look like those if they are going to be going into the ski unless you are using inserts. You want the ones with the pointy tips and more aggressive threads (wood screw). I'll see if I can round some up.

Thanks, Conundrum. Good points. The picture shows the type of screw head (i.e., beveled) that I would like...but it's not a good representation of the body of the screw (as these are snowboard screws).

Thank you! These are for mounting some Fritschis without the toe spacer.

[marshalolson]

hardware store. match the length and get some #3 phillips head wood screws. they tend to have a bit more purchase into the ski anyway. cost you .75

edit: sorry UAN, spaced getting you a package before i left for CHI.

[mntlion]

do you have the old screws at all?
you can just grind a few mm of them to fit a non riser freeride.

most ski shops have a bin of old screws (also most shops are closed in mid may)

[upallnight]

do you have the old screws at all?
you can just grind a few mm of them to fit a non riser freeride.

most ski shops have a bin of old screws (also most shops are closed in mid may)

yes....the fact that most shops are closed is why i'm on here, begging.

what would you recommend to grind them down with? i don't have any power tool for that, currently.

ideally, finding screws the right length, even if it cost a little, would be best for me.

[upallnight]

hardware store. match the length and get some #3 phillips head wood screws. they tend to have a bit more purchase into the ski anyway. cost you .75

edit: sorry UAN, spaced getting you a package before i left for CHI.

Can do that...was getting stuck on pozidrives, which are unnecessary I guess. Also, I wanted to match the bevel on the head, which I prolly can do. Will go check it out.

Package????

[mntlion]

power tools are the best, but try a file. you only need to remove 1 thread each at most, I've usually just screwed them right into the same holes without an issue..

[Conundrum]

Checked and I found one but you would have to grind the other eleven down. To the hardware store with you....

[upallnight]

power tools are the best, but try a file. you only need to remove 1 thread each at most, I've usually just screwed them right into the same holes without an issue..

May give it a shot if the hardware store doesn't have what I need. This is for a new mount, so re-using the same holes is not possible in this case.

Thanks!

[Conundrum]

May give it a shot if the hardware store doesn't have what I need. This is for a new mount, so re-using the same holes is not possible in this case.

Thanks!

So before you grind the screws down, start each hole a little kind of like tapping and then grind them and put the bindings on.

[upallnight]

Good idea. Thanks, C!

I'd kind of prefer to get new, shorter (& appropriate) screws so I can keep the longer ones....but that is a good suggestion.

[Staggerwing]

OK, time to get JONGed. Lurked for a long while, but on this issue, I might be able to help.

Just pulled a screw out of new binding and measured it with a micrometer. The closest cross, in a hardware store wood screw, is a No. 10; which does have a #3 phillips drive. The only issue being the shortest I see listed is 5/8". That said, binding screws have a clipped point, because you pilot the hole, and the last little bit only takes up valuable length, without adding strength. Find someone with a bench grinder, or belt sander, and clip the ends of your hardware screws.

If 18-8 stainless is OK, go here (http://www.mcmaster.com/) and look up item 90294A244. Sorry, box quanity only, although, at that price, who cares. Their shipping is actual cost, and generally very reasonable. They are also a good source for epoxy, other fasteners, metal stock, and other useful goodies for those of us the make, repair and modify our toys.

[Conundrum]

OK, time to get JONGed. Lurked for a long while, but on this issue, I might be able to help.

Just pulled a screw out of new binding and measured it with a micrometer. The closest cross, in a hardware store wood screw, is a No. 10; which does have a #3 phillips drive. The only issue being the shortest I see listed is 5/8". That said, binding screws have a clipped point, because you pilot the hole, and the last little bit only takes up valuable length, without adding strength. Find someone with a bench grinder, or belt sander, and clip the ends of your hardware screws.

If 18-8 stainless is OK, go here (http://www.mcmaster.com/) and look up item 90294A244. Sorry, box quanity only, although, at that price, who cares. Their shipping is actual cost, and generally very reasonable. They are also a good source for epoxy, other fasteners, metal stock, and other useful goodies for those of us the make, repair and modify our toys.

No jonging here. Good info but you'll have to up the sarcasm level and you'll make it just fine

[Lok]

The standard is the metric equivalent of ANSI #12 AB (5.5 mm wide, 'AB' means self-tapping). I haven't figured out what the Euro standard is yet.

[Staggerwing]

True on the sarcasm thing. It does run in the family though, being my fathers favorite level of communication. Tough on a tech post though.

Let's see.....lag bolts and a epoxy, yeah that's the ticket.

UAN, on a more serious note, you might also have to shave the head diameter a touch too. The McMaster catalog indicated the noted wood screws had a head diameter about 0.040" larger than what I measured on an actual binding screw. Just chuck the screw up in a cordless drill, and hold the screw head against the grinder for a couple of seconds to knock the corner off. If it isn't obvious, have the drill running while grinding.

Also, based on Lok's note, I double checked another source. He is correct, you want No. 12, NOT No. 10 sized. The shortest McMaster has listed is 3/4", item 90294A294, $10.05 for a box of 50. My only concern is wood screws have fewer threads per inch than binding screws, and you don't have much engagement length.

Might also look at http://www.mcfeelys.com/tech/dimensions.asp. Note: length of a flathead is total fastener length.

[jfost]

My only concern is wood screws have fewer threads per inch than binding screws, and you don't have much engagement length.

exactly.

Binding Screws are specifically designed to hold fast over a relatively short overall length. I for one think you should get short binding-specific screws, or grind off a thread or two as mentioned above. Also, if the sticks have been mounted, you can screw right back into the orig. holes (provided they were removed carefully). You'll likely need some pretty old-school screws - something pre lifter/plates. IIRC, the front-most screws of the heelpiece of the old Salomon 997 bindings (no lifter plate) are quite short, they just went through a thin metal extension before entering the ski. I think those are shorter then the standard Fritschi toe-piece screws... good luck!

-jfost

[INDY GS]

I have probobly 8 short binding screws in my garage, if you are still in need, i will try to round them up and mail em to you.

I'll go out and look right now.

[INDY GS]

Sorry, just looked through my stash, i had recently pulled some really old sallys off some straight skis and kept the screws, thought that since they didn't have a riser these would work. but I measured them and they are way longer than 3/8".

I do have 1 screw that matches your dimensions, it came off of the front screws of a derbyflex plate. if you know someone who has yanked off a few dflexes, then you should be able to get the right size screws.

[upallnight]

Sorry, just looked through my stash

Thanks so much for checking! I appreciate it!

Someone recommended a (retail) source to me through a PM. I've got a call into them and if it pans out I will pass on the information.

Still rather swing some $$ to a mag who has these sitting around collecting dust.

[upallnight]

The local hardware store had wood screws, but all were too long (and no #12s). Also, when I compared the stock Fritschi screw with the wood screws @ the LHS, there are clearly fewer threads for a given length.

[upallnight]

So...I called the folks at the http://cantco.net; they seemed like the most promising source for true binding (DIN-standard) screws. They don't carry anything less than 14mm thread. Hm.

They suggested I find someone with a Salomon customer #; apparently Sally lets you order a box of screws of any length.

Back to square 1?

[Staggerwing]

You're making this too hard.

Go ahead, and buy the longer screws. Grab a piece of something about as thick as the active screw length you are seeking. For what you originally mentioned, a scrap of 3/8" plywood would work, although a piece of ABS or Lexan plastic might be better. Something a few inches long and a couple of inches wide would be perfect. Drill a 1/8" diamter pilot hole in one end (think a ruler, with hole to hang it). Put the binding screw in, and tighten down. Clamp your "ruler", with a binding screw through it, in a vise and wack the end off with a hacksaw. If you picked the correct thickness of scrap, you can simply run the saw blade against the side of the scrap. Take a couple of cleanup strokes with an edge file, unscrew, take few more licks with the file on the first couple threads, and your done.

If it takes more than a minute or two per screw, your doing something wrong.

[upallnight]

You're making this too hard.

Go ahead, and buy the longer screws. Grab a piece of something about as thick as the active screw length you are seeking. For what you originally mentioned, a scrap of 3/8" plywood would work, although a piece of ABS or Lexan plastic might be better. Something a few inches long and a couple of inches wide would be perfect. Drill a 1/8" diamter pilot hole in one end (think a ruler, with hole to hang it). Put the binding screw in, and tighten down. Clamp your "ruler", with a binding screw through it, in a vise and wack the end off with a hacksaw. If you picked the correct thickness of scrap, you can simply run the saw blade against the side of the scrap. Take a couple of cleanup strokes with an edge file, unscrew, take few more licks with the file on the first couple threads, and your done.

If it takes more than a minute or two per screw, your doing something wrong.

Thanks for that.

The reason that I wanted to get separate shorter screws so I could preserve the intial screws in case I want to switch back later.

[Lexi-Bell]

Yo Eazy,

Just dropped off my FR+ to be mounted (yeah, I know), and the tech (who claims to have mounted 100 pr a year for ten years = 1000) said he almost always uses the stock screws to mount w/out the plate.

Unless you have a thin ski.

I'm paying in beer, so its ok.