Fixing a frayed wire in a camalot

[skiing-in-jackson]

Attachment 13219

Sorry this pic isn't better, my crappy dig camera won't take a decent close up...

Anyway, one of the wires is frayed on this old boy. The cams still flow fine, but I know in tighter placements, I have a tendency to reef on it if gets stuck.

I've seen some place small spectra cord in the holes and eliminate the wires all together???

Thoughts? Suggestions? Preferred methods?

[iskibc]

I think BD sells a replacement kit for only $10 or so. Really easy to fix.

[upallnight]

Here's a link to BD's repair kits:
http://www.bdel.com/gear/spare_parts_rock.php -- the double stem wire kit is $7.50.

[upallnight]

That's an older camalot; BD should be able to tell you if the replacement kit,a s is, works on their old cams. If not, monofilament works great too and doesn't fray as easily.

They've got a special kit for the double-stem cams...so (on the surface) it seems that it *should* work. Bet they'd clear it up on the phone or take the kit back if it turned out to be inappropriate.

PS I wonder if Teton Mountaineering (ugh...so not a fan of them) could be able to help.

[snoboy]

Double stem BD cam repair kit should work. If not then all is not lost. Next time you are in Yosemite, go by Camp4, and there will surely be a dude there who can make the repair. Try a nearby climbing shop if there is one...

I used to do them through a local climbing shop for $10. The tools to do a really good job are about $100. If all else fails, email me [my tgr username at gmail dot com] and I will hook you up.

[danhikeski]

i would personally retire that piece, but it's your life on the "line"

[Mulletizer]

i would personally retire that piece, but it's your life on the "line"

The part he's looking at replacing isn't load-bearing in any way; it's the "pull" that you tug on to cinch the cam's jaws shut so you can place it or remove it from a crack. If the rest of the piece is in good shape then there's no reason to chuck it out for want of a commonly replaced part - unless you like throwing away expensive climbing gear...

[skiing-in-jackson]

i would personally retire that piece, but it's your life on the "line"

I've been climbing for fifteen years. I am a frequent and careful climber.

Furthermore, buying into the "replace it if it is scratched" mentality is just plain stoopid! This stuff is bomber, and is designed to be bomber in less than stellar circumstances.

I'm sorry, but I don't have a trust fund- and therefore can't afford to replace my rack every two-three years.

[skiing-in-jackson]

The part he's looking at replacing isn't load-bearing in any way...

1234567890.

Also thanks Upallnight for the link, I'm sure TM has these in stock or can get them. I saw a snazzy repair job using spectra cord once- and was wondering of anybody knew how to do it.

???

[cj001f]

Furthermore, buying into the "replace it if it is scratched" mentality is just plain stoopid! This stuff is bomber, and is designed to be bomber in less than stellar circumstances.

then there's 15 years of accumulated wear and tear on places that you can't inspect like the plastic coated bits. Or that between what you could probably get for it on eGay and what the rewire would cost it wouldn't be much more $ to get a new one. It's not like he told you to chuck a brand new unit....

[upallnight]

Well, first of all, the price of a double-stem cam on ebay would be pretty low (assuming someone would want to buy it at all), so your advice is like telling him to just buy a new one.

I think you are trying to protect him by saying "one rat, many rats"....but the truth is that if he knows the history of his gear, it's right to hang onto it. The braided wires are the first thing to go as they see the most action...the rest of the cam is more solid/beefier than those thin trigger wires that serve no load-bearing purpose.

I say replace the wires and keep using it (assuming it hasn't been dropped, etc.). Worst thing is the trigger wire might break and it would be hard to clean (you'd need a nut tool to disengage each cam), but it would be fine in a fall.

While I like shiny new gear as much as the next guy, it's not always that it's truly "better"...and moeny is a factor (at least for me).

[cj001f]

Well, first of all, the price of a double-stem cam on ebay would be pretty low (assuming someone would want to buy it at all), so your advice is like telling him to just buy a new one.

$20 isn't too low in my book (current price for one). Not all the way, but a decent bit. I've only found that fixing or repairing gear is increasingly not worth my while. It is, admittedly, more convenience than safety based.

[hucksquaw]

i wouldnt, and i dont know a lot of other climbers who would, buy pro on ebay.

fixing gear that i know the history of that has no problem being fixed sounds way better to me. shit, good pro will last a long time as long as you treat it right.

BD is a company that is super focused on safety and if they sell repair kits there is obviously a reason.

[mcsquared]

I have replaced/repaired the trigger on a double stem #1 camalot with some sort of piano wire before. I just replaced the cables with 2 pieces of wires to eliminate the need for swages etc. Super huge pain in the ass. Getting everything bent properly and the correct length was a time consuming trial and error process. But I got it to work eventually. Might be easier on a bigger piece like your #3 but not much. At one point they had the trigger kits on sale at the shop in Zion and I bought as many as I could. They are much easier to install and well worth the 10 bucks.

[alpinepronghorn]

Wait, you guys climb with gear?

[upallnight]

Hey s-i-j...you ever get word from TM or BD on this? Curious how it turned out.

APH: You know you love it!

I am told I can start belaying as soon as I am fully weight-bearing. Never knew I'd look forward to being a belay-slave!