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Thread: Heat gun for base repair?

  1. #1
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    Heat gun for base repair?

    I'm fixing some big core shots in some rock skis -- playing around with a heat gun to warm up the base material near the core shot, to try to get the ptex to stick better --

    Is this going to damage the sintered base? Worth trying to get the ptex to flow into the core shot better with the heat gun, or is that going to heat the surrounding area too much?
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  2. #2
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    seems like if it is hot enough to do anything, it would be the same as burning your base with an iron. It would probably warp\burn\damage the base, plus whatever grain structure the base did retain from sintering would probably be effected if it got hot enough to soften the ptex. I could maybe see doing it locally with an adjustable soldering iron or something, but a heat gun throws out a pretty large swath of hot air.

  3. #3
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    I would just use a blow dryer. Because of the amount of heat a heat gun puts out I think the line between warming the ski bases and destroying them would be pretty fine.

  4. #4
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    there is such a thing a a base weld gun
    No longer stuck.

    Quote Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn View Post
    Just an uneducated guess.

  5. #5
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    For like ten bucks from Tognar you can get base repair material. I used it a couple times on a beat ass pair of skis and it worked great. It is epoxied in place so it sticks to pretty much everything and after I got it down you can barely tell it was ever repaired.
    You're gonna stand there, owning a fireworks stand, and tell me you don't have no whistling bungholes, no spleen spliters, whisker biscuits, honkey lighters, hoosker doos, hoosker donts, cherry bombs, nipsy daisers, with or without the scooter stick, or one single whistling kitty chaser?

  6. #6
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    A heat gun with a plate over the end, similar to a paintstripper attachment but deflects all the hot air away and heats up the plate is what I've seen and used in more than one repair shop that is too scared of fire risk to use a torch with plate atachment. I acually use a veriation on this theme myself. The real challange is getting propper ptex. The candles are for emergency repair only. Tongar is a good source - pity we don't have it's equivalent in europe. To fully repair bad core shots you need both base repair string/strips and metalgrip string.
    Knowledge is Powder

  7. #7
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    we always warmed the base area up beforehand. it makes sense to me.

  8. #8
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    El Chup-

    Go to your kitchen
    Grab a knife out of the non-silver drawer (your mom will be SUPER PISSED if you ruin one of her silver knives)
    Melt Ptex into coreshot
    Heat knife to red-hot with propane plumbers torch
    lay flat on coreshot and smooth in ptex

    repeat 3-5 several times until fixed. The knife method heats the surrounding base material enough to form a good bond. Not great for truly large coreshots but fixes most.
    "It is not the result that counts! It is not the result but the spirit! Not what - but how. Not what has been attained - but at what price.
    - A. Solzhenitsyn

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by lemon boy
    El Chup-

    Go to your secrect stash drawer
    Grab your bottle toke knifes out of the drawer (the burnt ones you hide from your mom)
    Melt Ptex into coreshot
    Heat knife to red-hot with propane plumbers torch
    lay flat on coreshot and smooth in ptex

    repeat 3-5 several times until fixed. The knife method heats the surrounding base material enough to form a good bond. Not great for truly large coreshots but fixes most.
    fixed
    678

  10. #10
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    actually, I'd recommend against that. I got a posession + posession of paraphernalia ticket one time b/c the fucking drug dog "hit" on a pair of skis in the rack for exactly that reason.
    "It is not the result that counts! It is not the result but the spirit! Not what - but how. Not what has been attained - but at what price.
    - A. Solzhenitsyn

  11. #11
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    what!? they got your skis as paraphenalia?

  12. #12
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    confiscated the motherfuckers too.





    : :
    "It is not the result that counts! It is not the result but the spirit! Not what - but how. Not what has been attained - but at what price.
    - A. Solzhenitsyn

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by lemon boy
    El Chup-

    Go to your kitchen
    Grab a knife out of the non-silver drawer (your mom will be SUPER PISSED if you ruin one of her silver knives)
    Melt Ptex into coreshot
    Heat knife to red-hot with propane plumbers torch
    lay flat on coreshot and smooth in ptex

    repeat 3-5 several times until fixed. The knife method heats the surrounding base material enough to form a good bond. Not great for truly large coreshots but fixes most.
    I'll try it out, thanks.

    (mom?)
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by lemon boy
    confiscated the motherfuckers too.





    : :
    AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
    No longer stuck.

    Quote Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn View Post
    Just an uneducated guess.

  15. #15
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    Chup - gimme a call or stop by sometime and I'll show you a couple different ways to do that repair. Ain't no biggie at all. I have Idris' old heat gun basewelder and a propane torch. I like the torch.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by splat
    Chup - gimme a call or stop by sometime and I'll show you a couple different ways to do that repair. Ain't no biggie at all. I have Idris' old heat gun basewelder and a propane torch. I like the torch.
    Thanks Splat - will do.

    My first effort at the base weld, using just ptex, ripped clean out of half of the gash when I was razoring the excess ptex off. These are rock skis, so it's just kind of a trial and error process -- doesn't really matter if I damage the skis more, or if the repairs don't look pretty.

    I have some metal grip string that I'll try next.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  17. #17
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    Hey !
    Heat good (allegedly).
    I can't find it online. But there was something in one of the other magazines (Skiing ?) about how those p-tex candles don't work with modern base materials, and you should just use a soldering iron
    Something like that. With metal solder (flux ?) I guess...
    Anyone see the same info ?

    ...Remember, those who think Global Warming is Fake, also think that Adam & Eve were Real...

  18. #18
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    I just go slow with a base iron I got off Tognar. Takes a little while to melt the metalgrip (yeah, you want metalgrip instead of regular PTex if it's near an edge or a coreshot), but if you're patient and do it evenly, you can lay down a layer of metalgrip, then drip PTex over it...then do the standard magic to make the base level.

    This technique works for me plenty of time.

    Lighting a PTex candle is bad because you get alot of carbon residue, which diminishes the integrity of the repair. Base iron or torch is good, because you can get the PTex to burn w/o carbon residue.

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