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Thread: Singlespeed conversion advice

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    Slummit County, CO
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    891

    Singlespeed conversion advice

    Alright SS riders...need some advice.

    I bought a Epic Marathon last year, and fell in love with Full Suspension goodness. Since that time, my 97 S-Works has been sitting in the basement collecting dust. Some of my riding buddies have singles, and swear by them.

    My question is should I convert it to a singlespeed for in-town riding and occasional uphill punishment? And if so roughly how much would it cost me?

    Bike Specs (IIRC)
    - 97 S-works M2 frame
    - Easton flat bar (go riser for more comfort?)
    - XT Shifters / levers (not integrated, so the shifters can just go I assume?)
    - XTR v-brakes (keep em? or go mech disc?)
    - Specialized Strongarm 2 crank (what to do here?)
    - XTR rear / front derail's (these go bye bye obviously)
    - 8 speed rear cogset (See wheelset comment)
    - Mavic 7xx something or other wheels. (should I build a SS wheelset? Can I reuse these?)

    I've been reading some SS sites that popped up on Google, they mention chain tensioners, are these needed? I've seen people with them, and without them.

    Any info/direction would be greatly appreciated...I loved this bike, it went everywhere with me, and would like to keep it around if it makes financial sense.


    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    I have a fully rigid Cannondale that I converted to SS. Good FAQ here:
    http://www.mtbr.com/faq/ssfaq.shtml

    What you need:

    1) chain tensioner: I used this:
    http://aebike.com/page.cfm?action=de...=30&SKU=CH3050

    The spring-loaded ones are reported to fail/ not hold tension adequately. The DMR one is just a bolt-in-place one, easy. Obviously need to shorten the chain appropriately.

    2) pick a cog/ chainring combo -- I'm using a stock middle chainring (34T) and I broke up a rear cassette to use a cog from the cassette (18T). About a 2:1 ratio generally works well.

    3) space the cog out on your rear freehub so you have decent chainline -- I used a piece of PVC pipe for a spacer, along with 1 or 2 of the cassette spacers from when I took apart the cassette.

    4) shorter chainring bolts since you're only attaching 1 chainring to the crank. You can use BMX bolts, supposedly, but I just took a grinder and cut down the regular bolts -- works fine.

    That's it. I kept the regular V-brakes & flat handlebar, though a wider riser bar would be nice for leverage when climbing standing up.

    Edit: fixed link
    Last edited by El Chupacabra; 05-05-2006 at 11:22 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  3. #3
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    One more thing: if you have a decent quality cassette on your bike, don't rip it apart if you want to use it again. Cassettes are a PITA to reassemble, but it can be done.

    Better move: get a cheap junk cassette (bike shop junk bin?), doesn't matter if 7/8/9 speed, take it apart. The low-end ones are riveted together, but the rivets are easily ground off, then the cassette comes apart.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Idaho
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    Yep, El C has it dialed. I had an Ionic ss conversion for awhile. The only thing I would add is do the bigger riser bar for leverage unless you are an animal and go with some odi lock on grips because you'll be crankin' on those on steep climbs.
    Quote Originally Posted by Benny Profane View Post
    Well, I'm not allowed to delete this post, but, I can say, go fuck yourselves, everybody!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    you can just use the rear der. as the chain tensioner.

    also, you need a 35mm inside diameter PVC pipe/tube/washer/whatever.

    also, use the 11t cog on the outside, so the lockring has something to bite onto.

    pretty straight forward. have fun
    go for rob

    www.dpsskis.com

  6. #6
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    Thanks guys, this clears things up!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Banff
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    wide bars are good (and bar ends help too)

    if you need some single cassettes, let me know, I have a pile.

    play with the rings and cassette to get the chain tension right. if a 17 on the rear is too loose try a 18 and see if that works better. you might luck out and get tension to work without a der, or tensioner. If it is just off by a bit file the dropouts a mm or two to make it work. I like it clean, noise free, without a tensioner

    also chain line is key to not dropping the chain. the PVC works great, as to spacers from old cassettes.

    for around banff I use a 34:21. 17T on the rear: can't ride that, too bumpy / rocky / rooty / twisty / I'm too week.


  8. #8
    Join Date
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    is '97 new enough to have vertical dropouts? my '92 has semi horizontal forward facing dropouts (not true rear facing track fork ends) and by playing with gear ratio a little i was able to set the axle so it is nominally in the middle of the adjust range of the dropouts and got away with not using a tensioner.

    PVC will work but cassette spacers are nice (no cutting and re-cutting to adjust chainline)... ask your friendly LBS if they have any lying around that they want to trade for beer.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    If you are planning to do offroad riding, imho, I would get a Shimano DX (BMX) cog for the rear, as opposed to using old cassette cogs. The bmx cog has taller teeth and no shifting ramps/gates, or contoured teeth. This ensures proper chain/teeth engagement and limits the chance of skipping, or dropping chain and slamming your junk on the tt or stem!. They are under 10.00 each and i think you can get 15-18t. Another one from a co. called Novatech is like 5 bucks, and I know they make up to a 20t at least. Both of these fit on a standard Shimano freehub. Changing out the front chainring for a non shiffting c-ring (ss specific) is also very important. If you dont care about your balls, or are just ridin round town, the tear-apart cassete cog and existing c-ring would do just fine.
    The coefficent of desireability is inversly proportionate to the degree of availability.

  10. #10
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    Feb 2004
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    I second what 1wsguy said. If you decide you like it, get a non ramped chainring and rear bmx cog. They make half links to get chain tension right. I've never experimented with one as I have always ridden a ss with horiz dropouts, but my buddy swears by one. If you find the right ratio and use a half link, you should be able to make it work without a tensioner. You can use your rear der as a chain tensioner, just make sure you get your chainline dialed adjust the limit screws to keep the chain on the cog.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Yup. Get a bmx or SS specific cog. The tensioner el chup linked to looks badass. I used a rennen which is similar but about 5x the cost.

    Also get a bmx or SS chain. You'll be torquing harder than a bike you shift down with so stronger/wider plates are good.

    You can either use cassette spacers or pvc. I've used both.

    Here's a quick way to kill a few birds with one stone.

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...rsion+Kit.aspx

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Slummit County, CO
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    trigger pulled on the parts, should be here by the weekend.

    stoked to build this thing out...Thanks again guys!

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