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Thread: Decisions regarding AT rig

  1. #1
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    Decisions regarding AT rig

    This would be my first AT setup. I think I would like to keep skis/bindings/boots/skins as far under 700$ as possible (tax refund).

    my first option
    Ive got dibs on those 178 FR10's in gear swap and have a lead on comforts for under 300$, so for skis and bindings it would be just a tad over 500, but then I would also need boots, which I would expect to cost at least 200-300 used. I wouldnt mind going a little over my budget, but them Im stuck with a 100% dedicated AT rig, which isnt necesarially a bad thing, I just like versatility as a selling point to myself when spending so much...and then I also need skins.

    my second option
    I might be able to trade dibs on the FR10's for those nx21s in gear swap and mount them to either a 180 helidaddy that I can get for fairly cheap ~300, or of course spend a bit more and get a 179 Stiff bro. For now I would just use my alpine boots in the naxos to save some money there. Also the versatility is there and would be nice since I could use it inbounds whenever.


    Id mostly be using this setup obviously for shortish bc tours around summit county and berthoud pass probably. Since this is all new, maybe not more than 4 hours ascending. Not a hucker, but that doesnt mean I wouldnt mind dropping off some smaller rocks ~5feet. 5'10, 165ish, fairly aggressive strong skier little formal training but Ive been told by the two intructers Ive had lessons with that Im a darn good skier and could teach...whatever the hell that means. For reference my other skis are a 176 mojo 90 which I like for softish days in the trees and bumps and a 180 exploder which I like for everything so neither of these skis are really overlap.

    thoughts, opinions, alternative suggestions?

  2. #2
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    oh yea
    any thoughts on boots as well would be welcome
    particularly comparing dynafit and garmont compatible boots in stiffness to something like an xwave 9.

  3. #3
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    boots are not comparable. at boots are way way way softer.
    go for rob

    www.dpsskis.com

  4. #4
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    190 might be long and 10EXs are a midfat (88 or so at the waist) but this would be a good way to get in the bc cheap.

    http://www.telemarktalk.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=21057

    I already checked and he doesn't want to sell the FRs seperate.
    Quote Originally Posted by Benny Profane View Post
    Well, I'm not allowed to delete this post, but, I can say, go fuck yourselves, everybody!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conundrum
    190 might be long and 10EXs are a midfat (88 or so at the waist) but this would be a good way to get in the bc cheap.

    http://www.telemarktalk.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=21057

    I already checked and he doesn't want to sell the FRs seperate.
    Those are all great deals

  6. #6
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    well i got a pm from someone about my post
    completely changed my mind
    going freeride now
    dumping the fr10
    and looking for something like a bro

    that deal looks totally sweet, but 190 really is too long.

  7. #7
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    Spend it on Freerides and 180ish phatties!
    Use those alpine boots til your hiking lotsa rock/dirt.
    Check backcountry.com for ski deals.
    Think like 90mm+ under foot.

  8. #8
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    If you can get the deal on heli daddies, they make a pretty sweet setup w/ freerides for cheap.

  9. #9
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    finally someone mentioned the helis. Im considering those a lot more right now. Is their foam core not a concern like solly skis? I hear theyre a softish ski to begin with, anything happen over time?

    I also have a lead on a older Karhu Jak BC 97 waisted. Heard it does everything well except that it only has "reasonably good edge hold" and twists out from under you a little bit on ice. But that doesnt much matter for this setup. Thoughts about this ski? Also am I wrong to think that 180s, with 30 days of use, couple year old model, 1 core shot, and normal wear on edges should go for 150$?

    I would absolutely love to just get a bro, especially right now to support their 20 ski quota, but 620$ is really a lot considering I could buy everything I need to get into the bc for less than that. edit: then theres the stonegrinding and tuning costs, so really 650$

    Also, Ive read the posts, but any other thoughts about silvretta pures?
    Anything definitive about using them with alpine boots? Ive read the post and the one from ttips and the response from garmont so dont jong me there. Supposedly even at minimum toe height adjustment theres a 1mm gap, and using them with alpines just incurs more slop? Anyone confirm this?

  10. #10
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    I hung up my Dyna FR10's 187cm for the Bro 179 stiff. I'm 6' and 190lbs. So you being a bit lighter, would be well suited on the Bro 179. They float better than the Dyna FR10, but I can't vouch for their attributes in anything but pow yet. That's all I've skied them in.

    Bindings: Get Dynafit bindings. You're not a huckster, and they work fine. They are the stiffest, and lightest binding you can buy. Why lug around 3+ extra pounds on your feet? I have NEVER had a prerelease in my Dynafit Comforts. Can't say the same for Fritschi.

    Boots: Get a good four buckle AT boot to make up for the compromise of an AT boot. You don't need an alpine boot the way you describe your skiing. Nobody does. People RIP on AT boots, you can too.

    Silveretta Pure might be a good option, but I have never used them. Throw the Naxo's in the trash. Their silly, flexy bindings IMHO. Wait till you side hill skin with a soft binding, you can't to it as well. With the stiff Dynafit, you can smoke up that stuff, cause there is no flex.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trackhead
    I hung up my Dyna FR10's 187cm for the Bro 179 stiff. I'm 6' and 190lbs. So you being a bit lighter, would be well suited on the Bro 179. They float better than the Dyna FR10, but I can't vouch for their attributes in anything but pow yet. That's all I've skied them in.

    Bindings: Get Dynafit bindings. You're not a huckster, and they work fine. They are the stiffest, and lightest binding you can buy. Why lug around 3+ extra pounds on your feet? I have NEVER had a prerelease in my Dynafit Comforts. Can't say the same for Fritschi.

    Boots: Get a good four buckle AT boot to make up for the compromise of an AT boot. You don't need an alpine boot the way you describe your skiing. Nobody does. People RIP on AT boots, you can too.

    Silveretta Pure might be a good option, but I have never used them. Throw the Naxo's in the trash. Their silly, flexy bindings IMHO. Wait till you side hill skin with a soft binding, you can't to it as well. With the stiff Dynafit, you can smoke up that stuff, cause there is no flex.

    Well that is my dream setup, only problem is thatll cost me like $1200.
    Im totally with you that bros+dynafits+4buckle is the way to go for me, but Im just not ready to invest that kinda cash in something Ive never done.

    Right now I think I can get a fully setup rig with freerides/jak bcs/skins for a tad over 400 so I may just do that. When I figure out that I do or dont like this touring stuff, Ill just sell the freerides after the snow melts, and save money on dynabinders and boots....of course if I hear something back from a lead I have on megarides, I could potentially go dynafit now on those karhus.

    If I have to buy AT boots for silvrettas, they honestly just dont make any sense over a dynafit.

    Im also fairly well turned off to naxos now from the deluge of PMs etc.
    Maybe nx21s will be there in a couple of model years...or whatever they call it then, but for now freerides or comforts only.

  12. #12
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    Go Freerides first, then when you switch over to dynafits at least you'll appreciate the weight savings.

  13. #13
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    well shit, I could get megarides for 200 from someone wanting to sell them
    dynabinders for under 300 and then just mount them on whatever
    hmm...I wonder if that guy around here still has those 180 snow rangers for sale for $50.

  14. #14
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    pechelman, you're going to like touring, I guarantee it. I think it's definetly worth the investment... and if you do it right from the beginning, you'll only save yourself money in the long run

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