Drill 4 Mounting/tuning:Calling shop techs

[bossass]

Any reccs on a drill 4 mounting and possible tuning stuff (like running a roto brush). My $15 Ryobi cordless doesn't come close to cutting it.

I'll probably go corded, since I won't use it all that much, and want to go cheaper. I have like $40 in store credit at Sears, so I thought I'd go there.

If I recall, my shop had a pretty nice panasonic for mounting.

Any specs I should look for? Thanks.

[Conundrum]

I have a Craftsman 19V cordless that works great. It has variable speeds and all of that stuff. I use it for drilling and roto brushing. Can't say how much it was 'cause it was from xmas. The old drill I had was done though and wouldn't even cut it drilling holes in a ski with a thicker metal top sheet. In the shop I worked at, we had a corded Makita drill with the quick release deals for the bits and another Makita Driver (just a drill with a posi bit instead of a drill bit) set around 12 so it wouldn't spin the screws and then we would hand tighten them. This setting will differ from drill to drill though. I would think any drill with speed setting will work for roto work and any drill you can set the clutch on for driving screws but unless you are mounting a lot of skis, you can just use a posidriver by hand.

[slim]

I just bought a Milwaukee 14.4V cordless for this exact purpose. Pretty happy with it.

Just make sure whatever you get has a clutch that'll let you adjust down to 5 Nm or ~44 in/lbs of torque.

I was going to go corded as well to save money but I found that the corded drills with a clutch are only slightly cheaper than the cordless which almost all have a clutch.

[runethechamp]

I just bought a Milwaukee 14.4V cordless for this exact purpose. Pretty happy with it.

Just make sure whatever you get has a clutch that'll let you adjust down to 5 Nm or ~44 in/lbs of torque.

I was going to go corded as well to save money but I found that the corded drills with a clutch are only slightly cheaper than the cordless which almost all have a clutch.

I have a corded DeWalt without clutch, and a while ago I got the super duper drill bit set from my wife. Included is a 3/8" socet adapter that I used to screw on some nuts on the fog lights on my truck. To do the last tightening, I bent down to make sure I could see what happened, the nut tightened up, and the handle of the drill came flying around and hit me on the chin. Next time I'll get a drill with a clutch.

[bio-smear]

the nut tightened up, and the handle of the drill came flying around and hit me on the chin.

My dad told me a story about drilling a go-kart axle when he was a kid, using his dad's burly drill press. The bit hung up in the hole he was drilling, and the torque was all transferred to the axle itself, which swung around and slapped him in the ribs. He said he was sure he broke some ribs that day, and since then has sworn by using a drill vise.

[upallnight]

If you're going to use a rotobrush(es) and want to do it right, you need a drill that goes up to 2500 RPM. that pretty much rules out cordless drills. i use a dewalt...think it was about $50 or so.

[Toby]

Yep. I've got 2 drills at home, a kickass 14.4V Makita cordless and a cheapish Makita corded hammer. The cordless is handy and great, but I get pissed off when the batteries die, which is surprisingly quick and often on bigger woodworking jobs. I'd personally use the cordless (which has a clutch and chuckless head) for mounts and the corded (no clutch, chuck) for rotobrushing.

[Steven S. Dallas]

No real advice, except to concur with Toby that Makita batteries suck.