Ibex bikes anyone?? Noob help

[monkeybones]

I came across this company that makes some nice bikes for the money. I was looking at the Trophy 880 disc and you get a lot for your money. Has anyone heard of this company and their reputation. This is gonna be my first non-Walmart type bike and I a frame that will last me. I am more into crosscountry/distant riding. I also like the Marin Eldridge Grade ( http://www.marinbikes.com/bicycles_2...dge_grade.html ) but it is a lot pricer than this Ibex. I am a noob when it comes to bike components so how do these two bikes compare??


Ibex Trophy 880 disc
" Frame: - Double-Butted 6061 Aluminum - Trophy frames are built to be rigid without sacrificing comfort or great handling. Racebred geometry is ideal for fast cross-country and precision trail riding. Elegantly tapered chain-stays add just enough suppleness to cushion the rear wheel while keeping acceleration power on the ground where it belongs and S-bend seatstays (with new shape for 2004) provide extra clearance for the rear tire and add power to V-brake equipped models. The large-bore aero shaped down-tube gives the Trophy frame a slim look and provides a rock-solid foundation that keeps everything in place even in the roughest conditions. Larger riders need not worry about flex while lighter riders will appreciate the light weight, rigid feel and "tossability" of the tightly spec'd geometry. All-in-all, the Trophy frame represents our finest effort in hardtail MTB technology.

Fork: - Marzocchi EXR Race w/ 85mm Travel - Lightweight & durable performance in a wide range of trail conditions, the EXR Race delivers predictable steering control and superb damping quality under any conditions. With coil on one side and air on the other, the EXR Race delivers the best of both worlds... the tuneability of air and the rugged ease of coil.
*Shock pump required.

Drivetrain: - Shimano LX/XT - The standard in function, dependability and leading edge styling, this 27-speed Shimano LX drivetrain includes LX Rapidfire shifters, front derailleur and cassette while the rear derailleur is upgraded to XT. TruVativ's jewel-like Firex Team alloy crankset and KMC Z9000 chain are a perfect complement; all parts working in harmony to provide flawless shifting and rugged durablilty.

Brakes: - Avid Juicy-5 Hydraulic Disc Brakes - newset member of the Avid family, Juicy-5's perform flawlessly - low X Factor - Tri-Align™ Caliper Positioning System.

Wheelset: Sun DS1-XC Rims are cross laced to Shimano M525 hubs. These Sun rims are legendary XC disc rims; rendered here in Silver to lighten the look of the wheelset from the typical ponderous all-black wheels found on most disc equipped bikes. Kenda Koyotes are all-conditions cross-country tires based on the Kharisma design with low profile knobby treads for a fast rolling without sacrificing traction.

Cockpit: TruVativ XR alloy riser handlebar, forged alloy stem and alloy seatpost are a matched set finished in sand-blast black. Comfortable WTB Pure V Race saddle and dual density Kraton Trail grips are "all day" comfortable and M520 clipless pedals are Shimano's latest design in a double-sided, mud shedding, sealed-bearing design - SPD cleats included.

Weight: 26.3 lbs.*"

http://www.ibexbikes.com/Bikes/TR-880-Disc-Details.html

[uncle crud]

the recitations of parts spec doesn't mean diddly, and is intended to distract the prospective Ibex customer from the dangerous reality check: you're talking about FS bikes that are selling for LOW LOW prices. what that means is that they are building them even more cheaply than other mfrs, with sloppier tolerances and less sturdy parts. if you want to ride FS off-road in terrain that puts the suspension and bike to any sort of performance test, you quickly learn that a cheap FS bike is a waste of money because it will handle poorly and quickly get on the road to self-destruction.

Ibex wants you to focus mainly on their low price, and generally on everything except the fact that their cheap price comes from cheap engineering.

if you want my opinion, I wouldn't recommend an Ibex to anyone who intends to ride the bike more than 15 times a year on smooth paved stuff.

[InspectorGadget]

For what it's worth, I bought my then 9 year-old an Ibex hard-tail three years ago. After looking at a lot of the name brand bikes for kids, I decided on the Ibex. Both Mini-Gadget and myself have been very happy with the bike.

Assuming - dangerous though it may be - that the rest of the Ibex line is of similar quality and workmanship, I think you could do much worse.

Santa Cruz or Specialized they are not.


Edit to say that if Uncle Crud would have taken the time to follow monkeybones' link, he wouldn't be talking out his ass about a full suspension (FS) bike. The bike in question is a HT, as in hard tail.

[monkeybones]

I am in the market for a HT. I know the components on this bike are really good considering what you are paying. I was just curious if anyone has had experience with their frames?

[uncle crud]

if Inspector Gadget knew he was talking about a guy whom he's e-mailed for advice about bikes and parts, he wouldn't be so quick to dismiss that guy.

eh Richard?

Sean O'Neil

Ibex bikes still suck arse, they are a loss-leader "marketer" dream. I held back because I didn't want to insult Ibex or anyone else, but since you are insisting they're good... well... okay, they're good for occasional users. I wouldn't recommend one to someone who's athletic or inclined to get serious about riding.

given even a volume cost of the independent parts spec, they basically give away their frames... what does that tell you about their quality?

[monkeybones]

if Inspector Gadget knew he was talking about a guy whom he's e-mailed for advice about bikes and parts, he wouldn't be so quick to dismiss that guy.

eh Richard?

Sean O'Neil

Ibex bikes still suck arse, they are a loss-leader "marketer" dream. I held back because I didn't want to insult Ibex or anyone else, but since you are insisting they're good... well... okay, they're good for occasional users. I wouldn't recommend one to someone who's athletic or inclined to get serious about riding.

given even a volume cost of the independent parts spec, they basically give away their frames... what does that tell you about their quality?

Do you have any HT crosscountry bikes that you would recommend instead under the 1000 mark? Need something light enough that can climb like a mountain goat (would like something in the 25-26 range, but no more than 28lbs) and that has a fairly good set of components.

[Spats]

if Inspector Gadget knew he was talking about a guy whom he's e-mailed for advice about bikes and parts, he wouldn't be so quick to dismiss that guy.

That doesn't change the fact that you didn't even follow the link (or even read the post) to see that he was looking at hardtails, not FS bikes, so your advice is...suspect.

Also, have you ever personally seen, handled, or ridden an Ibex, or are you dismissing them entirely based on low price?

Let's face it: aluminum hardtail frames are not rocket science, and haven't changed meaningfully in years. Furthermore, they all come out of the same few big Asian factories, no matter what name is on the downtube. These factories sell them in container loads to anyone who asks...all you have to do is wire them some money and email them a design for the frame decals.

So I'd love to hear how it is that an Ibex hardtail frame is inferior.

[marshalolson]

agreeing w/ spats... tought to screw up an AL HT frame, especially when most are all made in the same place.

there are tons of options in the price point, w/ similar specs. really the fit is most important thing though. i'd rec. going to your local shop, riding a bunch of frame sizes and geometries, and seeing what fits the best, then shop around for the right bike that has the fit you want.

[Squatch]

I was in a similar situation. I don't know where you're located, but if you can afford it you could probably find a guy who is well recommended and makes affordable custom steel frames. The way I look at it, serious riders will buy a bike for the frame, and then swap parts out as they break them. If that's what you want to do, then Ibex is not the way to go. While it is true that many companies have their frames made is Asia, they still retain control over the molds and tolerances. Also, 6061 aluminum is, I think, considered a lower-end aluminum. The other thing that bugs me is how much their bike has been painted to look like a Trek--it makes me feel like they're trying to pull the wool over my eyes.

If you're serious and have the cash, get a custom hardtail. It'll probably run you about 1500 dollars, but it will be comfortable and fit you well. It'd be similar in components to stock bikes that are about the same price, assuming you can find a good deal. Otherwise if you want to stay under $1000, I would recommend getting a bike with a better reputation from a serious company. You'll have to sacrifice componentry, but in the end I think it will be worth it.

[marshalolson]

how big are you? if 19" sounds right, get this frame:
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...853+Frame.aspx
and slap a XT/ Avid disc group on it (total about $1100 or less). go ride.

[monkeybones]

how big are you? if 19" sounds right, get this frame:
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...853+Frame.aspx
and slap a XT/ Avid disc group on it (total about $1100 or less). go ride.

I am 5'11, 170-175ish. The bikes that I have tested ridden that feel most comfortable are Giants, Treks, GF in the 18'' range. Might be able to go up to a 19'' if the geometry was right. I don't know much about making a custom bike, but I couldn't be to hard since I know the basics of putting a bike together. I don't know much about the Jenson, but it seems like a nice frame. So Marshalolson, are you the type of rider that recommends/prefers a steel over an aluminum frame? I don't know if this is something that I should worry about, but I want to keep my bike under 27 lbs if possible. Should I be worried about the added weight of a steel frame over an aluminum? How much would I be looking at spending on top of the $239 for the frame with the wheelset, shock and other components? I am just afraid that it will get expensive quick. Plus the fact that I am a noob when it comes to components, and have zero experience/know how of picking out a wheelset, fork, handlebar, shifters, derailers...etc. From those of you with previous experience, how hard is it to piece a bike together?

[rideit]

Monkey, I owned a shop for the last eight years, and worked in them for 25.
Giant's offer an incredible value for the money, generally on par with the Ibex line, with a far better frame, warranty, and shop support. I suggest developing a relationship with your local shop, the sport is about much, much more than saving $20. on a bike!!
For $800, you can get a great hardtail these days. For $1200, you can get a bike I believe you would enjoy even more, such as a Trance, or a Jamis Dakar.

Of course, you should also get a matching Elkhound!
Feel free to PM with any Q's.

[monkeybones]

Anyone ever take a look at Motobecane bikes, or are they in the same league as Ibex?

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...357_06sale.htm

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ly_pro2006.htm

I really like the first bike, Fly 9357. Can't beat its light weight (21lbs), nice components from what I can tell, and I like the geometry of the frame. I did some reading on the bike and it seems like the wheelset is a weakpoint. Maybe it is safer to stay away from a small company and stick with a well known company.

[InspectorGadget]

if Inspector Gadget knew he was talking about a guy whom he's e-mailed for advice about bikes and parts, he wouldn't be so quick to dismiss that guy.

Point

That doesn't change the fact that you didn't even follow the link (or even read the post) to see that he was looking at hardtails, not FS bikes, so your advice is...suspect.

Counterpoint


Hi Sean, welcome to TGR. I'm not dismissing you, or anyone else, for that matter. I simply stated that, in my personal experience, I found Ibex's youth bike to be a good bike.

... but since you are insisting they're good...

I also said "Assuming - dangerous though it may be - that the rest of the Ibex line is of similar quality and workmanship, I think you could do much worse."; which is a far cry from insisting that Ibex bikes are good.

[El Chupacabra]

Instead of recommending that monkeybones go buy a custom-made steel hardtail, or buy a frameset and build it up himself, remember this part of his post:

This is gonna be my first non-Walmart type bike

monkey - just go to your local bike shop(s), check out the bikes, buy whichever one that you like that physically fits you and your price range. If you have $500 to spend, you'll get something acceptably decent (reliable, not obscenely heavy). If you can stretch your budget up to $700-800, it'll be worth it (lighter, nicer parts that'll "feel" smoother). Past $1000 you start getting some nicer and nicer parts/ frame features -- it's up to the rider to decide if it's worth it -- most people with $2000 bikes don't "need" $2000 bikes, they just like them for one reason or another. My point being that coming from a Wallyworld bike, a $500 bike is going to feel like heaven to you, where a bike racer/ bike snob/ gear whore is going to turn up his nose at it, simply because it's not full XTR, carbon/ titanium/ whatever, etc., etc. Just get a good bike, get a helmet if you don't have one, go ride a lot.

Also, you'll get a better overall bang for your buck with a major bike brand -- Specialized, Giant, Trek, Fisher, etc. -- but don't overlook some smaller brands that also can have pretty nice bikes at lower price points, like Kona, Norco, etc. The more generic brands also can be pretty nice (they're all made in the same factories anyway): KHS, Fuji, etc.

[InspectorGadget]

^^^ El Chewbacca wins by offering sound advice. ^^^

[monkeybones]

Instead of recommending that monkeybones go buy a custom-made steel hardtail, or buy a frameset and build it up himself, remember this part of his post:



monkey - just go to your local bike shop(s), check out the bikes, buy whichever one that you like that physically fits you and your price range. If you have $500 to spend, you'll get something acceptably decent (reliable, not obscenely heavy). If you can stretch your budget up to $700-800, it'll be worth it (lighter, nicer parts that'll "feel" smoother). Past $1000 you start getting some nicer and nicer parts/ frame features -- it's up to the rider to decide if it's worth it -- most people with $2000 bikes don't "need" $2000 bikes, they just like them for one reason or another. My point being that coming from a Wallyworld bike, a $500 bike is going to feel like heaven to you, where a bike racer/ bike snob/ gear whore is going to turn up his nose at it, simply because it's not full XTR, carbon/ titanium/ whatever, etc., etc. Just get a good bike, get a helmet if you don't have one, go ride a lot.

Also, you'll get a better overall bang for your buck with a major bike brand -- Specialized, Giant, Trek, Fisher, etc. -- but don't overlook some smaller brands that also can have pretty nice bikes at lower price points, like Kona, Norco, etc. The more generic brands also can be pretty nice (they're all made in the same factories anyway): KHS, Fuji, etc.

I went to my local bike shop yesterday and took a loot at what they had. I wasn't to impressed with their selection, so I am going to go to a few more shops before I make a decision. Looked at Fisher, Kona and Trek, and didn't find anything that I was really interested in. I plan on going to another shop tha carries Specialized and Marin bikes, hopefully they will have a better selection. Has anyone ever heard of Motobecane bikes before? I heard that they use to make good road bikes back in the day. I came across this sweet deal, and it has everything I want in a bike. Just dont know if it is "quality" purchase. http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...357_06sale.htm

Frame Kinesis Kinesium Aluminum 2.7lbs (IS Disc Brake rear tabs on frame)
Fork RockShox SID Race - 80mm travel Pure Delite Air suspension with External rebound adjust (IS Disc Brake front tabs on fork)
Crankset TruVativ Stylo Team SL GXP Hollow Spline System 22/32/44T
Bottom Bracket TruVativ GXP Integrated Crank Spindle OutBoard Bearing System
Pedals M-Wings Systeme clipless 300g
Front Derailleur Shimano LX
Rear Derailleur Shimano NEW XTR 2006
Shifters Shimano LX Rapid Fire 27 speed
Cassette/Freewheel Shimano XT cassette 9 speed 11/32T
Chain Z9000 super narrow 9 speed
Hubs Black Anodized Motobecane M-Wings Team Issue Sealed Precision Bearing with Quick Release
Spokes Double Butted Stainless steel with alloy nipples
Rims Alex XT16 black with CNC brake track
Tires Kenda Klimax Lite 26 x 1.95 Kevlar
Brakes Avid Single Digit 7
Brake Levers Avid Speed Dial 7
Headset 1 1/8 inch FSA Orbit XL II cartridge bearing for threadless
Handlebar M-Wings Team Issue 6061 Aluminum Bead blast silver finish
Stem M-Wings Team Issue Forged 6061 Aluminum threadless 150g
Tape/Grip Velo Double D
Saddle M-Wings Team Issue Turbo with ComfortCutout and Titanium rails 214g
Seat Post M-Wings Team Issue micro-adjust Superlight Aluminum with forged clamp 27.2x350mm
Seat Post Clamp Super Light Machined Aluminum

[Squatch]

I went to my local bike shop yesterday and took a loot at what they had. I wasn't to impressed with their selection, so I am going to go to a few more shops before I make a decision. Looked at Fisher, Kona and Trek, and didn't find anything that I was really interested in. I plan on going to another shop tha carries Specialized and Marin bikes, hopefully they will have a better selection. Has anyone ever heard of Motobecane bikes before? I heard that they use to make good road bikes back in the day. I came across this sweet deal, and it has everything I want in a bike. Just dont know if it is "quality" purchase. http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...357_06sale.htm

Frame Kinesis Kinesium Aluminum 2.7lbs (IS Disc Brake rear tabs on frame)
Fork RockShox SID Race - 80mm travel Pure Delite Air suspension with External rebound adjust (IS Disc Brake front tabs on fork)
Crankset TruVativ Stylo Team SL GXP Hollow Spline System 22/32/44T
Bottom Bracket TruVativ GXP Integrated Crank Spindle OutBoard Bearing System
Pedals M-Wings Systeme clipless 300g
Front Derailleur Shimano LX
Rear Derailleur Shimano NEW XTR 2006
Shifters Shimano LX Rapid Fire 27 speed
Cassette/Freewheel Shimano XT cassette 9 speed 11/32T
Chain Z9000 super narrow 9 speed
Hubs Black Anodized Motobecane M-Wings Team Issue Sealed Precision Bearing with Quick Release
Spokes Double Butted Stainless steel with alloy nipples
Rims Alex XT16 black with CNC brake track
Tires Kenda Klimax Lite 26 x 1.95 Kevlar
Brakes Avid Single Digit 7
Brake Levers Avid Speed Dial 7
Headset 1 1/8 inch FSA Orbit XL II cartridge bearing for threadless
Handlebar M-Wings Team Issue 6061 Aluminum Bead blast silver finish
Stem M-Wings Team Issue Forged 6061 Aluminum threadless 150g
Tape/Grip Velo Double D
Saddle M-Wings Team Issue Turbo with ComfortCutout and Titanium rails 214g
Seat Post M-Wings Team Issue micro-adjust Superlight Aluminum with forged clamp 27.2x350mm
Seat Post Clamp Super Light Machined Aluminum

I think you're getting too hung up on weight here. You won't notice the difference between XTR and LX, especially if you're not racing. Futhermore (I could be wrong, but) I'd be worried about a bike that weighs less than 21 pounds and isn't full XTR. Frankly I think the frame is too light. If I were to recommend a specific bike for you, something along the lines of a Specialized Rockhopper. Jamis also makes some nice bikes.

[monkeybones]

I think you're getting too hung up on weight here. You won't notice the difference between XTR and LX, especially if you're not racing. Futhermore (I could be wrong, but) I'd be worried about a bike that weighs less than 21 pounds and isn't full XTR. Frankly I think the frame is too light. If I were to recommend a specific bike for you, something along the lines of a Specialized Rockhopper. Jamis also makes some nice bikes.

Yeah I have looked at the Specialized and the Jamis. I came across these as well

Flyte Celsius 6 (http://www.flyte1.com/soar/janette/...sius6_bike.asp#)
Marin Eldridge Grade (http://www.marinbikes.com/bicycles_...idge_grade.html)
Marin Nail Trail (http://www.marinbikes.com/bicycles_...nail_trail.html)
Specialized Rockhopper
KHS Alite 3000 (http://www.khsbicycles.com/04_alite_3000_06.htm)
Jamis Exile XC (http://www.jamisbikes.com/bikes/06_exilexc.html)

[El Chupacabra]

I bought Mrs. C. a Motobecane road bike from that Bikesdirect website awhile back. The current Motobecane (and Windsor, and whatever other brands that site is selling now) is not at all related to the 1970s brand -- some guy bought out the trade names and is marketing these bikes under those old names.

That said, the Motobecane I got for Mrs. C. is a damn nice bike -- tapered & butted aluminum, carbon seat stays, carbon fork, etc. Construction quality on the frame is first rate. The frame and fork were made in Taiwan by Kinesis, one of the big builders who does frames & forks for many of the big name companies.

Caveat: if you buy a bike from Bikesdirect, you'd better be a good mechanic to be able to assemble it correctly, adjust everything correctly, etc. You'll need real bike tools -- not just allen keys, but cable housing cutters, spoke wrench & truing stand, cone wrenches (repack and adjust hubs before using), etc. If you don't have the tools or the experience to do this, don't expect to be able to bring in your internet-ordered bike to your local bike shop and have them assemble it... they'll probably do it for you, but they'll charge you a lot (expect $100-150). Don't forget to factor in this possible upcharge in the savings of doing a mailorder bike vs. one from the local shop.