AT boot / Fritchi Freeride combo

[alembical]

I am relatively new to this, so any help is appreciated.

1) I have been using a pair of Alpine boots with a sole of 321 in my Freerides. I just got a pair of AT boots (G-Ride) with sole of 320. Does the length of the binding need to be adjusted? I know how to adjust it, and how easy it is, but I do not know how to know when it is adjusted properly. Is a rough adjustment enough? if so, is the 320 vs 321 close enough?

Adjust roughly to boot length. Then turn the little screw in the center of the plastic thing on the end of the aluminum rod until the room that the boot has when you're stepping in is small.

2) Regarding the height of the toe piece: should something like a piece of paper be easy to pull out? Even with the grippy sole? How easy?

3) Are those the only 2 things that need adjusting, or do you typically change the din too? Toe and heel?

Thanks alot, and I have tried searching, but I could not find a thread relating to these 3 things, although lots of different ones regarding din and height of toe piece, and this one appeared relatively helpful http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...t=boots+height , but I still don't know if the 321 vs. 320 boot sole length is enough to warrant adjustment.

Thanks again, Alembical

[Core Shot]

1) boot length is correct when the adjustment screw is flush with the housing.
Do not look at the measurements on the bar.
Set and reset the boot a few times to see if screw is still flush.
Recheck for flush after changing toe height.
Adjusting so boot barely fits in is not kosher. Trust that the screw needs to be flush.
A "rough adjustment" is fine if you don't mind prereleasing and taking a slide for life.

2) toe height is best checked with a thin piece of plastic, but paper will work. Some have found that they like to turn the screw an extra half turn to reduce boot slop, but be careful since overtightening the toe piece can cause the binding toepiece to break. There are several threads discussing this.
I wonder if some damage also comes from sticking a rockered AT boot into the binding when the toepiece is lower for an alpine boot. This will leverage the toepiece up, possibly cracking it.
I prefer to loosen the toepiece two full turns before I even insert my AT boots when changing from alpine settings.

3) No. I run the same DIN alpine or rando.

[alembical]

Thank You!