My first digi was the A70.
I had an S45 precursor to the S60... I had the same problems you had until I dropped it into the Pacific.
I now have an A610.
My A70 still works.
Get an A610. It will do everything you need.
My first digi was the A70.
I had an S45 precursor to the S60... I had the same problems you had until I dropped it into the Pacific.
I now have an A610.
My A70 still works.
Get an A610. It will do everything you need.
Originally Posted by blurred
I also have the A620. With a 1 GB card it makes a viable alternative to carrying a video camera. It takes smooth full motion video in 640 x 480 resolution with no frame drops or strobing. Also, the continuous shooting mode captures slightly faster than 2 frames per second and the camera can shoot without stopping in that mode. Using a Sandisk Ultra II 1 GB SD memory I have never noticed an operating lag for picture storage. The camera indicates 322 shots on an empty memory card. Video files take a lot of memory, but a gigabyte is a lot of space. So far, I have not had problems shooting plenty of still frames and video files and having room left over. The speed is great. Camera comes on and is ready to go, and modes can be switched on the fly. A620 includes a snow mode that can be used with or without fill flash. Best of all, it fits in a pocket and keeps working even when its cold. Pictures download fast from this camera thanks to a USB2 interface.
Be sure to get a good memory card and some quality AA rechargable batteries. I got the Sanyo Ni-MH 2500 batteries from Costco with a charger for $21 (6-AA and 2 AAA). The standard alkaline batteries that come with the camera will fail suddenly. I missed a shot with them. The rechargables last much longer and are more reliable. If you have questions on settings don't hesitate to bump the thread, but I think the camera is actually one of the easier ones to learn and setup with a logical, clear and readable menu interface.
Edited to correct camera model from 610 to 620.
Last edited by Cirquerider; 12-31-2005 at 01:38 PM.
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If pigs had wings there'd be no bacon
Cirquerider-
I just got the A620 and I'm learning how to use it. Unfortunately, it doesn't have the 'snow mode' you referred to. My shots in low light turn out much darker (and often bluer) that they ever did with my S45. Any idea how I can approximate what that 'snow mode' does (without flash, since I shoot almost exclusively in continuous mode)?
For that matter, does anyone know of some good and fast tricks or standard settings to use in low light on snow with the A620 to make the pics naturally brighter? I'm getting so frustrated that I'm almost considering using a white handkerchief and doing a white balance before setting up, using the onboard custom white balance feature. Would that do the trick?
MBS suggested (a while back) setting the EV to (around) +1 to brighten the snow. With Canon you need to go out of AUTO mode to set the EV plus every shooting mode has it's own EV setting.
If you have a problem & think that someone else is going to solve it for you then you have two problems.
Originally Posted by Endlessseason
Endless, yes it doeshave a Snow mode, it's in the Dial under "SCN" (it's in red below) which is the same place it was for the A95 and A610
just learn how to use the dial and you're going to take fantastic ski pictures
SCN (Scene): Displays more preset shooting modes on the LCD screen, including Foliage, Snow, Beach, Fireworks, Underwater, Indoor, Kids & Pets, and Night Snapshot.
print this review off and read it.....the sections on the operations of the camera are worth keeping in your camera case for future reference
Mode Dial: Nicely placed on the camera's top panel, this large, notched dial is used to select the camera's shooting modes. Canon divides these functions into three categories: Auto, Image zone, and Creative zone. The options are as follows:
Auto: The camera takes over all exposure settings, except for flash and macro modes, image size and quality settings. The exposure-value (EV) control is disabled.
Creative Zone
====================
Program AE (P): Places the camera in control of shutter speed and lens aperture, while you maintain control over everything else (i.e., white balance, ISO, metering, exposure compensation, flash, etc.). Using the EV button, you can change the combination of shutter speed and aperture.
Shutter-Speed Priority AE (Tv): Allows you to control the shutter speed settings from 1/2,500 to 15 seconds, while the camera controls the aperture. All other exposure settings are available.
Aperture Priority AE (Av): Allows you to set the lens aperture from f/2.8 to f/8.0, while the camera controls the shutter speed. The maximum aperture depends on the zoom setting, ranging from f/2.8 at the wide angle end to f/4.1 at the telephoto position. In this mode, you maintain control over all other exposure variables.
Manual (M): Provides complete control over all exposure settings, including shutter speed and lens aperture. As with aperture-priority mode, the maximum aperture varies with the zoom setting from f/2.8 at wide angle to f/4.1 at telephoto. The fastest shutter speed varies with the aperture and zoom setting:
1/1,250 at f/2.8-3.2 (wide) or f/4.1 (tele)
1/1600 at f/3.5-4.0 (wide) or f/5.6 -6.3 (tele)
1/2000 at f/4.5 (wide) or
1/2,500 at f/5.6-8.0 (wide) or f/7.1-8.0 (tele)
Custom (C): This position recalls previously-saved exposure settings of the user's choice.
Image Zone
=================
Portrait: Uses a large aperture setting to blur the background while keeping the primary subject in sharp focus. Helps your subject stand out in the photo.
Landscape: Employs a small aperture setting to keep both the background and foreground in focus. (May use a slower shutter speed, so a tripod is recommended.)
Night Scene: Uses slower shutter speeds and flash to even out nighttime exposures. The slow shutter speed allows more ambient light to be recorded in the low-light areas, while the flash freezes the subject. The Red-Eye Reduction mode can be used with this exposure mode to eliminate Red-Eye in night portraits.
SCN (Scene): Displays more preset shooting modes on the LCD screen, including Foliage, Snow, Beach, Fireworks, Underwater, Indoor, Kids & Pets, and Night Snapshot.
My Colors: Lets you alter the color balance of an image to emphasize specific colors. Options include Positive Film (more vivid colors), Lighter Skin Tone, Darker Skin Tone, Vivid Blue, Vivid Green, Vivid Red, Color Accent (changes all colors except the selected one to black and white), Color Swap, and Custom Color.
Stitch-Assist: Allows you to record a series of horizontal images, panning either right to left or left to right, and using the bundled software for your computer, stitch your shots together into one large image or panorama.
Movie: Records video of up to 1GB in size, and up to 60 frames per second. There are four movie modes: standard, Fast Frame (60 fps for up to a minute, each), Compact, and My Colors.
also make sure to set each of the modes in the SCN button to "SuperFine" and L for large format (highest resolution) and also do it for every mode along that dial including all of those contained in both the Image and Creative Zones - ie Portrait (lady's face icon on dial), Landscape, etc to get the highest quality pictures
Func./Set Button (see image above): In the center of the four-way controller, this button confirms menu selections. It also launches the Function exposure control menu.
ISO Speed: Sets the camera's sensitivity to Auto (except in Manual), or to 50, 100, 200, or 400 ISO equivalents.
White Balance: Controls the color balance of images. Options are Auto, Daylight, Cloudy, Tungsten, Fluorescent, Fluorescent H, Underwater, and Custom (manual setting).
Drive Mode: Accesses continuous shooting and the three self-timer modes (a two- or 10-second delay, or the adjustable timer).
Photo Effect: Enables Vivid Color, Neutral Color, Low Sharpening, Sepia, or Black-and-White picture effects.
Flash Output: Adjusts the overall flash intensity in three steps from low to full.
Light Metering System: Sets the metering mode to Evaluative, Center-Weighted, or Spot.
Compression: With still images, it sets the amount of JPEG image compression. The less compression, the better the image. Options are Superfine, Fine, and Normal.
Resolution: Specifies the image resolution and quality settings. Still image resolutions are Large (3072 by 23.4), Medium 1 (2592 by 1944), Medium 2 (2048 by 1536), Medium 3 (1600 by 1200), and Small (640by 480) pixels. Postcard mode also offers 1,600 x 1,200 (or 3:2) pixel resolution. The A620 grays out a portion of the LCD screen top and bottom--but only when you half-press the shutter button.
Key Point: always set every mode in both the Creative and Image Zones on the dial to Superfine and Large format to get the highest resolution, most pixels and best picture quality....and you have to set them each manually (!) if you only set for instance the Snow mode under SCN for S,L it DOESN'T automatically set every other mode such as Foliage along with it, you have to do it for each one independently
hope this helped
Last edited by SquawMan; 12-31-2005 at 12:59 PM.
MRW, take the advice above and print this off for your A610 and read it
the descriptions and suggestions above also apply to you since the A620 and A610 have almost identical features and shooting modes
when I get back next week I'll answer any questions
Endless, My bad, I have the 620 not 610. The snow mode is access by turning the mode dial to scenes (SCN). Page through the scene modes by pushing the function cursor left or right. The 620 has presets for Fireworks, Underwater, Night snapshot, Kids & Pets, Indoor, Foliage, Snow and Beach. The snow mode helps to slightly overexpose snow to get the right exposure on the subject, but I still use a fill flash for closeups to avoid silouetting. The specialty modes adjust color, white balance and brightness to optimize automatic photography in special lighting. Set the camera to SCN, page to snow mode, then adjust for continuous or single shot use. Snow mode automatically adjusts white balance, so you cannot do it manually in this mode.
If you are still getting dark pictures you can go to semi-manual modes. Use Aperature Priority (Av) and set the apertature at F 3.2 or for very low light 2.8. Or use Shutter speed priority (Tv) and set the shutter for slower speeds (1/160 or 1/250) conditions for cloudy lighting. Using aperature priority (Av) to open the lens, then letting the camera select a relatively higher shutter speed will be better for stop action photos in continuous mode. The best pictures are always with a ISO of 50. To get more light sensitivity you can manually switch to 100, but higher ISOs begin to create grainy anomalies in the pictures.
In Av or Tv mode, you can select white balance to be for cloudy skies or use the Evaluative WB mode. These are accessed using the function set button.
Originally Posted by Endlessseason
Last edited by Cirquerider; 12-31-2005 at 01:51 PM.
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If pigs had wings there'd be no bacon
You guys are great! Thanks for the advice, I can't wait for it to be delivered.
My 610 has arrived. I have set all the individual settings to LARGE & SUPERFINE.I have let the "auto" mode remain in the lowest settings possible because I will be using this camera for work and that is all that is required. All that remains is to get out and start shooting. I shall report. Thanks for all the info and support.
Squawman, I hope the skiing was great.
I use the A95, I'm a former obsessed 35mm photographer felt it had the most old school feel of any digi compact I tried. I nearly never use the screen for shooting, the viewfinder is quite accurate. The flip out screen is nice for the indoor holiday/family shots tho...very nice.
lI've had it out on the hill in single digit temps and the rechargeable batteries(duracell) have hung in nicely as did all camera functions. If you are familiar with elph your adjustment to the a95 will be zero....my niece has the new s400....all functions are the same. The A95 of course has more features...14 shooting modes including manual modes. It is a bit of a tank compared to the elph but it fits nicely in my front parka pocket. I don't really like the Canon software...primarily use picasa.....
The new 610 and 620 are similar cameras....I bought the A95 last year....I expect they perform the same and have similar features....
Originally Posted by mrw
good work mrw, I know you'll love it once you get it dialed in
and fyi, the skiing was great (all of these pics from Squaw were taken this past Wednesday with the A95, and despite their appearance,all are heavily zoomed/cropped pictures taken from much farther away than they appear....the second picture of the dual snowboarder tracks was taken from a moving tram and it still came out crystal clear, despite being hosted on Photobucket, a site which forces you to scale down the MP's significantly to fit on their site.
Squawman and CR- Thanks for the great info. I can't wait to give those ideas a try!!!Originally Posted by Cirquerider
Well.....I tried AV mode and chose the lowest setting it would allow me to make: 3.2. I noticed it allowed 2.8 when I was in one location but only 3.2 in another. The pics still came out too dark. I had to go as high as 40 trying to adjust the right brightness level in photoshop. Unfortunately, I lose a lot of sharpness when I do that.
I didn't want to try a slower shutter speed using the TV mode because I was worried about blurring with the action shots.
I did use ISO 50, L, Superfine, and Cloudy setting. What do I need to try next to try to increase the natural brightness?
Also....none of the settings on the dial will retain the Continuous setting. I have to reset it every time. I can't seem to find a way in the manual to make the camera keep that setting. Does this happen with everyone elses' 620?
I am a complete novice and used the 4MP Elph for years including all of my ski action shots until it died. I had it repaired and gave it to Dad, upgrading to the 7MP Elph (S500).
I bought a big memory card and leave it on the superfine all the time.
It has taken many good action shots and panoramas. I'd highly recommend it for anyone who has little knowledge and just wants to point and shoot on the slopes
Endless, I was running into the same problem recently in late afternoon in trees. While pictures were perfect in sunlight, the shade was a bit blue. Was able to easily correct color and brightness in photoshop, but I am going to try to force a higher ISO for a while (100+). I found I had to set the continuous shooting every time I turned on the camera which made it harder to loan the camera to a friend to take pics. I have not found a way to save the continuous shooting mode. The movie mode was working pretty well, although I felt the shots were kind of blue in the heavy shade in the late afternoon. I'll let you know if I learn anything. Wish I could affort Astropax's camera, but I sure don't want to skin it up the hill.
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If pigs had wings there'd be no bacon
Anybody use the powershot s2is? I'm looking for a point and shoot as well with great snow pictures and a high optical zoom. Any suggestions?
The Powershot s2IS is big. I carried it in a radio pouch and found the size to be inconveniant. The 10x zoom and IS feature was great but I valued size over the additional features.
Hey Doof or anyone else for that matter, I have an SD500 Elph and am looking for a decent case to carry it in for skiing. I want to protect it but preferably be able to stash it in a pocket to avoid carrying a pack around the resort. I thought about just bringing the camera in my jacket but breaking it in a fall would suck.
I have the canon leather case and actually carry it in the belt pocket on my HeliPro packOriginally Posted by gramboh
Mostly take it out on deep days, so unless I hit a tree or a rock I think I am safe
gramboh I have the SD300 and use a metal case I got off ebay. The case is a little big for the camera but I just put a piece of foam in there and it works fine other than the rubber piece that goes around the opening came off.
http://cgi.ebay.com/CANON-IXUS-ALUMINUM-METAL-HARD-CASE-500-S500-v-v2-3-400_W0QQitemZ75
"College sailing isn't about who wins the most races, its about who can stand in the morning"
Sweet, thanks for the link Swerve, cheap price and cheap shipping to boot.
I posted a brief review of my experience with the A610 here...
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/read...key=canon_a610
Got a nice inexpensive S400 Elph from ebay. Great as I can use all the same software as before and the same peripherals and batteries. I'll report back after taking some snow pics
Good choice Lee. In the hands of a hack like myself, it kicksass. As far as durability, I've had mine about 3yrs including a Grand Canyon trip and other water/snow adventures. I've never had one problem and I'm not exactly easy on the shit.Originally Posted by LeeLau
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