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Thread: Mounting Bro Models

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Mounting Bro Models

    Hey All,

    Just got my new pair of bro models and was planing on mounting them with a pair of freerides, I can't seem to find a mount line so just wondering where a good location to mount them would be and any tips about the new skis would be great.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    search function? Many threads on the topic here...
    Thrutchworthy Production Services

  3. #3
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    Vets is offline Orange Mocha Frappuccino!
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    Recent thread:
    http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=41366

    Quote from Splat:
    Bones - since we shifted the waist back 20mm this year and the boot centerline moved 7mm back (1038 mm [40-7/8"] from top center of tip, tape latch hung over, no bends in tape) there's a little more flexibility in moving it back. If you drop back to 1045 mm, the ski will open the turns up bigger. Shorter carves and snap turns are easier with it at 1038 and you'll never hear anyone say the tip dives. Last year the sweet spot was pretty miniscule. There's a reason we give the recommendation at 1038.
    Enjoy your Bros!

  4. #4
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    i didnt mount mine, but when i picked them up from the shop 5 of the screws between the 2 bindings were spinning in their housings. They heli coiled them when i found this, but the tech who repaired the shoddy work said that the cores are very soft wood. I have no idea if this is bullshit or not, but getting them heli coiled beforehand would be a good idea or at least make sure when you pick up your skis that the bindings screws are tight.

    ...or the shop could be full of shit. Just FYI

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Full of Shit, Evil.

    If you mounted to the boot centerline there is not only extra glass in that area but also DoreTech to lock in the screws. If you freeballed to another location, he might have missed it, but it covers a pretty good area that is visible on most pairs where the topsheet meets the sidewall. You can see the extra thickness, especially in the toe mount area. We beefed that up for freeheelers, since they are big on Bros.

    PS - No other shop techs have had a problem in 200 pairs. The guy is lying to you.

  6. #6
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    thought that was DoorTech TM.

    my telebindings mounted good and tight, no problemo. removed the heelpiece recently to install a larger climbing bale...when remounting, the screws went in super tight and had that satisfactory 'wall of resistance' i've come to expect when mounting any decent ski.

    guessing that shop effed up.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by frorider
    thought that was DoorTech TM.
    It's all in the presentation.

    edit: mc - mount freerides to the 40-7/8 " boot centerline. (and make sure that shop tech does not bend the tape through the tip!) I don't trust many shop guys - gotta watch 'em.

  8. #8
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    Nov 2005
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    Thank for the help all, I can't wait to ski them

  9. #9
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    I've gotta question splat - 3.9 or 4.1mm screws?

  10. #10
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    Either. But you can go deep, it's a 12 mm core in that area.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evil E
    i didnt mount mine, but when i picked them up from the shop 5 of the screws between the 2 bindings were spinning in their housings. They heli coiled them when i found this, but the tech who repaired the shoddy work said that the cores are very soft wood. I have no idea if this is bullshit or not, but getting them heli coiled beforehand would be a good idea or at least make sure when you pick up your skis that the bindings screws are tight.

    ...or the shop could be full of shit. Just FYI
    e- who'd you have mount 'em?
    go for rob

    www.dpsskis.com

  12. #12
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    Even if you mounted behind the boot centerline, there should have been no problem, E. Our demos from last year had no extra reinforcement for binders and iskibc is still riding them.

  13. #13
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    I'm guessing EvilE's mounting problem was either using 4.1mm drill (which is too big for a wood ski with no metal topsheet) and/or also using a cordless drill to set the screws and overspinning them.
    There is nothing like snugging a screw into wood by hand - you feel just how much the fibers are snugging up and know exactly when to stop turning.
    Electric drills with a torque clutch are faster, but I would always prefer to use them at low torque, and finish the screws by hand.
    Kill all the telemarkers
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    Telemarketers! Kill the telemarketers!
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by splat
    Even if you mounted behind the boot centerline, there should have been no problem, E. Our demos from last year had no extra reinforcement for binders and iskibc is still riding them.

    I beat on them hard early season this year and they held up really well. I've got about 18 days on them so far this season and they are just beginning to show signs of self-destruct. Ok, I take that back. The edges, bases, etc. are in great shape, however I've had two screws fall out on the heel piece recently. I epoxied them back in and that seemed to take care of the problem. Also, Splat mentioned that the prototypes weren't made with the reinforcement, so that is probably why the screws are starting to get loose. Other than that these skis are hard as nails. Can't thank you enough again Splat.

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