Look Mount Position

[The Dark Side]

I want to mount some Look P12s and am planning on making a paper jig to mark the holes. However, I'm not sure how far to make the front/back from the centerline (its hard to tell w/o a mounted binding). My boots have 317 mm soles. Can someone measure on a Look jig what the distance is from the centerline to the closest set of front/rear screws for this length (or any other length as long as you report that).

Thanks much. And yes I did try the search function.

[mntlion]

mount the bindings on a 2*4 as a test to find out.

looks only have a small range of adjustment, so make sure you get it right.

ebay has some look jigs I think

[Oslo T. Norway]

Put the binding on the mounting plate until you need to turn the
forward pressure screw. Screw it until the base centers up between
the two lines on the lower assembly (or with the scratch/FR cutout on
the mounting plate). Having mounted the toe, place boot in toe, and
draw the temp heel assembly forward on boot to approx. position
on heel (fairly tight). Note how far off whatever CL of boot line you
are using the front of the plate is (for example on a 321mm boot it
is about 50mm. Mark that point on top of ski and go. I use the mounting
plate for marking the 4 holes (already having laid out the Longwise CL
of ski.
If you are using any other line for CL of boot (such as MantraHeads
holding it back 1-1.5 cms), then cover up the factory mark so you
don't get confused, thinking "the plate starts 46 mm off CL", and using
the wrong CL.
The two lines on the lower base (lifter or FR mountplate cutout) represent
the limits of the screw adjustment for the heel, so you pretty much want
to get it near center.
Hope this helps. Oh, you don't need the brake on to set this up, as a matter of
fact it will be easier to see the mount plate. Plus, you have to remove the heel
mounting screws to set this up.

It looks like on a 321mm sole, I could move the heel mount plate back to maybe 52-53mm off
CL to front of plate.

For toe binding, I just setup the toe on the ski (without the two rear screws, i think they get in the way).
I have backed the front screws out so the binding lays flat on the ski.
Throw a smaller piece of 3/4 ply or lumber under the boot heel for balance.
Pushing the boot toe into the rollers on the toepiece, find the boot center/ ski center.
Mark the forward screw CL on the ski top or side.
I have already marked the longitudinal CL on the ski. I use 2" masking tape, maybe you
have to overlap so you can mark screw centers.

To find long CL, i use a 6" adjustable square. At points fore and aft of where you will
need markings note the approx width of the skis at the edges. Set square to 1/2 (approx)
and mark off of each side. Hold the blade flat on the topskin with the square body against
the edge. If your marks are not dead center, then center is between the marks.
After finding center fore and aft, i use an 18" straightedge to draw CL. Check it, setting the
square on the line, seeing if it works from both edges.
Me.... Then using that front screw mark set the binding, the riser plate, whichever you feel
most confident with... on the ski aligned with front screw and long centerline. Mark your
holes, making the circumference of each. On LOOK/ROSSI Pivot toes from the last few
years (actually dating back to when Rossi incorporated the "Geze" toe) the pattern is
a trapezoid, long base forward. I call the front holes 42mm o.c. and the rear holes 35mm o.c..
It's 42mm o.c. between them...buy a small metric rule, it is easier. So off your long CL you
can check your alignment, for example front hole 21mm offcenter, rear holes 17.5 offcenterline.
After drilling and screwing, that's when you do that whole heel setup.
I say the forward heel holes are 21mm o.c. the rear heel holes 25mm o.c. with 47mm o.c.
from forward to rear. This time i use the metal mounting plate eyeballing of long centerline.
I (again) mark the holes, doublecheck off the centerline, pop a centerpunch mark with a carbide
scriber and go.

[The Dark Side]

Thanks for the detailed reply, it is helpful. I had missed the second half of it the first time.

One last question. How do you adjust the heal after they are mounted? Do you just make the heal nice and snug or is there an indicator that it is in the correct position (beside the two marks that you must stay between).

[Oslo T. Norway]

Flush the adjustment screw with the cutout on the base.
The scallop just above the screwhead.

[cooltsi]

TOES 5 23/32" from the center line to the center of the back two screws on the toe.

HEELS 3 3/16" from the center line to the center of the front two screws on the heel.

According to my Look Jig. Mount on 2/4 first or old skis work good too. Keep them centered and all will be go0d.

[train07]

Hey Dark Side or anybody,
What type of indicator do you have on those p12 heel pieces to show din setting?

[half-fast]

there's a window on the side of the "bottle" that shows the din

[train07]

Thanks again HF....that's what I was afraid of. I think we are looking at the same window. I'm not near the binding but I'm guessing this window is @ 1/8" dia. The ones I am working on are stuck on #5 although the spring screw turns and the tension works. Does your p12 go down to 5?

[The Dark Side]

The P12s go down to 3.5 I think. The DIN indicator is pretty obvious on both the toe and heel. Sounds like something is wrong with yours.

I got mine mounted and they came out perfect. I did the 2x4 mount and made a paper jig on my computer. Very smooth after that.

Thanks for all the help...

[train07]

The P12s go down to 3.5 I think. The DIN indicator is pretty obvious on both the toe and heel. Sounds like something is wrong with yours.

Not that this is important but here's what happened..... http://tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40073