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Thread: Petzl 8007 rando binding

  1. #1
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    Petzl 8007 rando binding

    Anyone know anything about the Petzl 8007 binding?

    Just picked it up off ebay:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=8708036869

    Marmot Mtn Works sells it too:
    http://www.marmotgear.com/MMWmain.as...&StyleID=10924
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  2. #2
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    What vintage is that? It doesn't look half bad compared to some of the junk that's been around.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles
    What vintage is that? It doesn't look half bad compared to some of the junk that's been around.
    early to mid 90's?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by cj001f
    You have to remove your boot for switching from walk to downhill mode (metal bail on the plate is for boot toe in touring mode - your boot is 2.5" further back when skinning). No toe release in touring mode. Toe & Heel release when skiing.
    Weird design. I see it now, looking at the pic of the binding more closely. How does the boot heel attach to the binding in touring mode?

    I'm planning on using this binding (or the Silvretta 404 from mntlion) for a light-duty BC ski -- a Fischer Boundless Crown. This will be strictly low-angle stuff, nothing fast, just stuff I used to do with X-C skis but I could never make turns with X-C skis.

    cj001f, I'll let you know if I decide I don't want to use the binding when it arrives.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  5. #5
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    How does the boot heel attach to the binding in touring mode?


    The plate on the bottom (plastic) stays with you and sits under your boot this with the heel bail and you stay in pretty well.

    A friend from AK used to use this set up and other than the removal of skis for the switch to downhill or tour they worked well. He ripped on them and never had any issues when we went out.

    The toe is a Salomon toe (757?) and the heel is a Look turntable. Interesting and workable binding, I don't remember the weight on them.
    Move along nothing to see here.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by weibo
    The toe is a Salomon toe (757?) and the heel is a Look turntable.
    Other interesting point -- the Marmot website says "recommended for AT boots only," but it does appear to be an old Salomon alpine toepiece -- this is the only official approval of Salomon alpine bindings for AT use that I've seen.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
    Other interesting point -- the Marmot website says "recommended for AT boots only," but it does appear to be an old Salomon alpine toepiece -- this is the only official approval of Salomon alpine bindings for AT use that I've seen.
    i think they meant that you can't use a tele boot.

  8. #8
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    Google produced some more info here on this binding:
    http://www.narem.com/narem/mountains/binding_skalp/

    From that site:

    "The toe piece is a solomon height adjusting rotating unit, the heel unit is a look turntable with length adjustment on the steel rods that attach it to the turntable. It's the step-in version of the look heel, unlike a standard alpine heel, it's not bistable: upon release the heel pops up and returns to the latched position. The circular plastic embossing at the top of the heel spring tube is where you place the ski pole to cock the heel unit. "
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  9. #9
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    Bumping for update -- received the bindings yesterday, and they're new, but one part is cracked. Anyone know if this is serious: The part that is cracked is the white plastic plate with "SK'ALP 8007" shown in the following photo. The crack runs crossways at the two rivets near the heelpiece, such that the plate behind the rivets (towards the heelpiece) is separated from the plate.

    I could glue it back together, but wonder if this makes any difference in the safety of the binding.

    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  10. #10
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    Those things are schweet! I wonder if you could swap out a higher din heel and toe unit on those. Would make a great resort rig where you still have the option to hike. How much does that plate affect the binding, still solid or wobbly?

    Anyone know why they stopped making these. Seems like they could have been made pretty bomber with some refinements.

  11. #11
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    I used this binding on a Chouinard/Tua prototype (205cm Fall Line) in the early 90's, working avy control at the speed skiing championships and general heavy-duty bc use. I remember it as being completely reliable, clumsy to change from one mode to the other and slightly heavy compared to the current items. It compared favorably to the models then available from Isser and Emery, which were on my other skis.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by nate s
    Anyone know why they stopped making these. Seems like they could have been made pretty bomber with some refinements.
    Well for one thing, they are frickin heavy. They are a pain to switch from ski to tour, and the pivot point is way behind the toepiece, so they don't tour very well.

    And the plastic plate had some breakage issues.(!!)

  13. #13
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    My concern over the cracked plate is that it rotates when the heel pivots sideways (release in a fall), and whether it will affect release if I use it without the cracked piece, or if I simply glue the plastic plate back together:




    FWIW, this will be going on a skinny ski that's going to see mild use. So I'll run the DIN setting really low, like 5 or 6.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  14. #14
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    Cracked where I circled? I don't think that'd be a problem.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cj001f
    Cracked where I circled? I don't think that'd be a problem.
    Exactly where you circled. The crack runs through the plastic, in line with the rivets -- so the part you circled is the part that has cracked off the plate and is loose.

    If I glue it back together, the damaged part is entirely under the heel of the ski boot. On a Look-style heelpiece like this, the heel of the boot isn't going to slide appreciably across that plate before release occurs -- the boot has to lift up to trigger heel release.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  16. #16
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    I took a closer look at the binding tonight, looking at what'll be needed to install it, and found that one of the heelpieces is cracked. Hard to describe, but basically the end tip isn't attached by much to the rest of the heelpiece. I've emailed the seller and told him I want my $ back, since none of the damage was disclosed in the ebay listing.

    cj001f - you said you might want the binding for the "museum" (although it looks like your post vanished since then) -- if you want it, it's yours for the $33 it cost me; I'll cover shipping to you. Aside from the cracks, the rest of the binding appears brand new, even has the owner's manual and paper installation template. PM me if you want it.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

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