frame rust

[ulty_guy]

so i picked up a cervelo prodigy (columbus foco steel) frame off ebay. seller never mentioned any rust, but there is a bit of rust on the dropouts as well as inside the headtube. is this going to be a major problem? is there anything i can do to slow the process?

thanks

[bagtagley]

so i picked up a cervelo prodigy (columbus foco steel) frame off ebay. seller never mentioned any rust, but there is a bit of rust on the dropouts as well as inside the headtube. is this going to be a major problem? is there anything i can do to slow the process?

thanks

Is it just superficial, or is the metal starting to pit? If it's just surface rust that can be removed w/ sandpaper, I'd say you're okay. If it's getting deep into the metal, I'd say you've got a problem.

Assuming it's not major, use a wire wheel or sand paper and lightly remove the rust. Then, coat the affected areas with some rust converter. Most auto stores have it. It neutralizes the rust and prevents any further corrosion.

[ulty_guy]

looks superficial

[CantDog]

Thats pretty common on steel frames to have rust in the dropouts, the dropouts get painted, and the paint gets rubbed off and you get some surface rust forming. If a quick scrubbing makes it go away, you are fine. The metal on the dropouts is also the thickest anywhere on the frame, so its unlikely that its serious there.

I'd be wary of rust around welds or lugs. Inside the headtube is just from getting water stuck in there, again that can be easily removed. Sounds like its just superficial rust in areas that either get their paint rubbed off, or dont get painted.

I cant think of the name but there is a special rust treatment for bike frames, FrameSaver maybe? Put it in your headtube and seattube to prevent water from pooling up and causing damage later.

[Viva]

Yep, it's called Frame Saver and can be purchased online. It's the same thing as Boeingshield. The latter may be found at any good hardware and some auto parts stores.

Post pics of the frame sometimes, eh? Not nearly enough porn in this forum.

[ulty_guy]

sweet, thanks boys. i'll post it when i get it built...10 spd ultegra, dt swiss 1450's, should be a nice one! i'm still not sure about the fork though, is ouzo pro worth it? other options are itm millenium, maybe easton or look?

[Viva]

I like the Ouzo Pro (I have one on each bike) better than the Wound Up.

However, I'm not a big fan of carbon forks on a steel bike. I much prefere a steel fork, one that's engineered to complement the geometry of the frame. Nothing rides better on a steel bike than a well-made steel fork. The ride is paramount.

[InspectorGadget]

I like the Ouzo Pro (I have one on each bike) better than the Wound Up.

However, I'm not a big fan of carbon forks on a steel bike. I much prefere a steel fork, one that's engineered to complement the geometry of the frame. Nothing rides better on a steel bike than a well-made steel fork. The ride is paramount.

Speaking of Paramounts, my Waterford Paramount came with a steel fork. I replaced it with a Look carbon and, while I was at it, added a new Chris King headset and Deda bar and stem. I dropped nearly three pounds off the bike, which I'm pretty happy about.

The fork Waterford recommended was the Wound Up; I, however, was reluctant to spend that kind of change. I'm curious to know what your thinking is on the Wound Up.

I'd take a look at the (new) Easton 90SLX.

[Viva]

I found the Wound Up to be a nice and quick-handling fork, but a bit skitish on fast decents...just didn't feel right to me at speed...made me a little uncomfortable. Maybe the Ouzo is more plush? Me dunno, but me like it heep better than Wound Up.

I tried the Wound Up on both a steel and aluminium frame and the characteristics were the same.

[Dano50]

Fluid Film will stop the rust. www.eurekafluidfilm.com.

[flip]

However, I'm not a big fan of carbon forks on a steel bike. I much prefere a steel fork, one that's engineered to complement the geometry of the frame. Nothing rides better on a steel bike than a well-made steel fork. The ride is paramount.

To be honest, I think carbon forks ride better in every way, and don't negatively affect the ass-feel of a steel bike. I do agree it's important to stick to the original geometry, so figure out the rake on the fork that it first came with and find a carbon fork that's the same. Reynolds seems to offer the most options for rake (usually around 40-45mm), and are great forks. But almost any fork from a reputable company with the proper rake will feel be smoother and handle better than a steel fork.