OB magic Fri 9/30

[Superstar Punani]

Fri 9/30
White out. Complete fucking white out. Two lesbians eating each other out in a hot tub full of melted vanilla ice cream.

I rolled up the parking lot shortly after lunchtime and couldn't see shit. You could hardly see the waterline less than a hundred feet away, and beyond that was anyone's guess. Within a couple minutes the unmistakeable roar of the bomb sets filled the air, punctuated by screams of horror or hoots of stoke- guys that were either caught inside and about to get mowed down by a liquid avie, or guys that just took off on something sick.

It was hard to tell the size, but judging from the two surfers who just paddled in after a four hour session- dripping wet, exhausted, eyes wide as saucers, it was pretty gnar.

"Howzit out there?"
"Better take your big board! There's some solid 10'+ sets"

Yep. A surprise NW swell. The ones that sneak up unannounced without the hype and expectations of their Southern counterparts. I waxed up my gun and ran for where I guessed the channel would be.

About 300 duckdives later I reached clear water and knew I was almost out the back. I couldn't see the shore nor the lineup, but I knew something was going on. Nonstop hoots of stoke could be heard, and I continued paddling in that direction.

I finally saw 5 dark shapes scratching for the horizon. I could barely make out the dark shadow. As I got closer I realized what the surf gods were dishing up: Solid 8-10 foot A-frames, throwing, heaving, walled up both directions. Pure sickness. I made my way over to the main peak and waited a few minutes.

Sure enough, a faint dark set loomed outside. I paddled hard, not knowing if I was in position or not. As it got closer it was much bigger than I though. I stroked harder than I ever had before, and swung around. Staring down the face of a double overhead bomb, I knew that I had crossed the point of no return. I was committed to this and changing my mind now would be a trip over the falls and a lung-burning hold-down. Stood up, took the drop which felt like it was going on forever, and cranked a bottom turn as I set up the rest of this sick-ass right with long drawn out lines, I could hear the whitewater explosions behind me as I raced the section carving shit up all the way to the inside. WHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!! Fuckin SICK!!!

I paddled back out again through the channel and was starting to crave some more. The sets came like clockwork. There was a peak where I was, a left to the south, and a right to the north. 6 of us out. Any wave we wanted. 2 fucking hours of mindblowing sickness.

As the tide dropped the inside section got uglier. Got spanked a couple of times on late late drops and my cockiness from the first couple hours were quelled immediately. I should have known better than to go for a feathering 10 foot set with a vertical take off. I took off blind, made the drop as the lip came crashing down on my head and sent me to the bottom. Everything was black and I was getting churned around in this gigantic washing machine. Don't panic...enjoy the ride. flips, front spins, backflips, misty flips, 1080s. I was a ragdoll dragged underwater. I pulled my leash and climbed back up as the next set exploded on top of my head, sending me for another trip on Mr Toads Wild Underwater ride. I surfaced, seeing stars and gasping for air as I sucked on foam. Grabbed my board and was pleasantly surprised that it was still in one piece. Paddled back out a little humbled, but still craving for more sets.

More people paddled out The fog lifted and you could see all the sick peaks up and down the beach. When the sun came out every motherfucker and his dog came out of the woodwork, and within a half hour the soulful session with 5 others had turned into a frenzied mob of 50+ guys scrambling for anything and everything in sight. The onshores picked up and the surf turned to shit, then the fog closed in again.

"YOU MISSED IT! You shoulda been here a few hours ago!" I said with a smirk as I caught my last wave in.

[Arty50]

Once again, Punani has shown us all how to write a TR.

[Tyrone Shoelaces]

niiiiiice

[Free Range Lobster]

makes me glad that the masses are still ignent to noaa

[mountainbored]

NW swell, THE swell for California! Way to getsome.
I've only surfed OB once and got thumped; Oxnard, Blacks.. can't think of many other beachbreaks that will work you over like OB.
4/3 in 55 degree water?