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Thread: Waxing irons - dedicated wax iron or just get something from thrift store?

  1. #101
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    3,317
    Whatever he put on my RDimes was the best of my life. What was that again? I need to order a block.

    I generally wax every fifteen to eighteen hours on snow. Hours six to twelve are usually the fastest. I think glide matters on big skis more than ever and a drop of drag becomes apparent quite easily.

    Dominator series has kept me happy. But I need a rotary brush attachment for my drill. I despise scraping and brushing. But I do it. That hatred may or may not have anything to do with the first six hours not being the fastest. Haha.

    I would say I can feel a five percent shift in glide as the wax gets skied.

    /still the best skier on the mountain. But now it’s in an intricate and annoying kind of way. The kind that hates new boots and shitty wax.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Down on Electric Avenue
    Posts
    5,127
    Quote Originally Posted by Marshal Olson View Post
    I’m with you, haha.
    Yeah, custom skis with a 9th grader ski tune is def the best sales model.

    Poorly tuned skis are for terminal kooks.

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    255
    Snatched a Toko T14 a few years ago for 70EUR. I use Swix BP88 as a general purpose wax and Swix HS6 as a colder wax. The iron works well with the BP88, but I find it struggles with the HS6, especially if there is a lot of real estate to work with. Would a pro 25mm base iron work much better with hard waxes?
    IME I would rather ski on a hard wax, unless it gets wet and sloppy, but its such a pita to work with.
    Ordered some Maplus(Briko) med base to try out. Loads of good reviews around.

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    3,317

    Waxing irons - dedicated wax iron or just get something from thrift store?

    Dominator Bullet is the hardest I’ll deal with. And even then it’s only crayoned on and/or dripped along the edges. I’ve been known to iron that in and then crayon/iron a softer wax (aka dominator zoom) just so I can scrape the bases and not get a flaky scrape.

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Down on Electric Avenue
    Posts
    5,127
    I stick mostly with wintersteiger waxes; blue is the coldest I will go and Green is too fucking hard to deal with.

    And I prob ski in as cold as mags wanna ski conditions on many days. Red is standard, yellow, when warmer, say above 26f.

    I always scrape, then rotobrush, and maybe handbrush if I wanna really clean the structure.

    Frequent fresh snow means considering conditions almost daily.

    My svst roto handle is longer and fits 2 smaller brushes so I have a short and long bristle spinning at the same time. One for digging, the other more polishing. Its the ticket.

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    255

    Waxing irons - dedicated wax iron or just get something from thrift store?

    I’m on the swix roto handle with vacuum adaptor. It’s more difficult to move around with the hose attached, but does a good job of sucking the excess small particles. I use one-four-zero mm vole roto brushes.

    Having two small ones (seventy mm ?) side by side sounds very time effective, but don’t you end up with an uneven finish?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

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