Waxing irons - dedicated wax iron or just get something from thrift store?

[AlpiNord]

So is it penny wise and dollar stoopid (or the other way around) if you pay thousands and thousands of dollars for ski gear, hours and hours of research, perfect access vehicles, tires, passes, outerwear, make bad life decisions, etc to slide on snow and then go half-assed on keeping where the rubber meets the road anything but ideal by going cheap or simply being lazy?
Some random thoughts:
-conventional wisom used to be that it'd take a minimum of 20 wax cycles to 'season' bases to glide at their optimal level. Once you get that optimal glide, your waxing frequency may be able to be reduced.
-proper base structure is part of the mix. Brushing frees the structure of wax increase the glide the first run onward.
-A clothes iron isn't beveled/rounded around the edges like a wax iron IIRC. You could ease the edges with a file, then stone/diamond. Use an IR thermometer to check iron base temps
-rub-ons or liquid waxes generally are easy on, easy off without adding heat. Ironing after application is best. If no iron is available for mid-day adds, you can try letting the bases face the sun to warm, expand and possibly get absorbed. A roto-cork can create friction heat to help increase durability. Use over a harder base wax.
-err towards harder/colder waxes based on the nightime low (snow temp) vs a warner wax base on air temps for increased durability.
-optimal glide does make for easier and better turns.....for those who actually like to make turns and carve
-run-outs, slogs, traversing & cat tracks really benefit by proper waxing.

[EWG]

Those of us who drip and scrape instead of cranyon and no scrape essentially do so becasue we are not convinced that canyoning on only enough wax that you dont need to scrap results in full wax coverage. If you are going so thin that you dont need to scrape then you are probably not fully filling bases in everywhere.

And you may not care. And thats cool. But thats why we choose to drip. And to each their own.

[AlpiNord]

Those of us who drip and scrape instead of cranyon and no scrape essentially do so becasue we are not convinced that canyoning on only enough wax that you dont need to scrap results in full wax coverage. If you are going so thin that you dont need to scrape then you are probably not fully filling bases in everywhere. And you may not care. And thats cool. But thats why we choose to drip. And to each their own.

A tweener approach is to touch the wax to the iron bottom to coat it, then apply to the base. On harder waxes, especially with sharp edged clothes irons, the drips can pop off the base.
To add to above post, sintered bases are basically a zillion faces/facets within peaks and valleys (not pores). You are trying to coat all of these faces/facets and the more waxings, the more these get the wax adhered to them. Start with a soft base prep wax and build up to harder waxes for good 'saturation & coating'.

[californiagrown]

Hot Take: Being overly concerned about waxing your skis is like being overly concerned about your tires rolling resistance while doing bike park laps.

[coldfeet]

flat take: Waxing your skis is like pumping up your bike tires. I don't have strong opinions about how you do it, or whether you should do it before every ride or just once a week or once every two weeks. But if you don't do it ever, the quality of the ride is gonna suffer.

[PB]

If scrapping is what you want to avoid: touch wax bar to iron as mentioned above, crayon on heavily, iron in, let cool. Then re-iron to liquify residual and immediately wipe off still liquid residual. I just use a paper towel, but knock yerself off with fiberlene if you want. Brush as recommended.

[PB]

If scrapping is what you want to avoid: touch wax bar to iron as mentioned above, crayon on heavily, iron in, let cool. Then re-iron to liquify residual and immediately wipe off still liquid residual. I just use a paper towel, but knock yerself off with fiberlene if you want. Brush as recommended. Paste waxes are even easier.

[SKIP IN7RO]

twice the glide

[Dantheman]

flat take: Waxing your skis is like pumping up your bike tires. I don't have strong opinions about how you do it, or whether you should do it before every ride or just once a week or once every two weeks. But if you don't do it ever, the quality of the ride is gonna suffer.

This is solid.

[Full Trucker]

Cold take: Waxing your skis is like pumping up your bikes tires. If you don’t do it regularly, you’ll inevitably have to do it during your ride/ski and the tools and resources available at that time will be inferior.

[TBS]

Update - used the new Swix t77 iron to put storage wax on four pairs.

Hot take (pun intended) - Easy to use and lays down a thinner coat than the old clothes iron. Uses less wax for same job.
4.5 stars

[XXX-er]

was it worth the money for you is the big question so did you enjoy using it ?

[gregL]

<p>
I personally endorse AlpINords tweener approach . . . once you figure out the timing you waste way less wax than dripping.</p>

[TBS]

[quote xxx-er: was it worth the money for you is the big question so did you enjoy using it ?[/quote]

Yeah, I think it was worth the $$$$, just in less wax applied. And easier to use than the clothes iron.

OTOH, if I start waxing more because it’s fun, then the wax savings go away.

[Marshal Olson]

FWIW - I don't think it's less wax applied per se, but rather you get much better wax penetration into the base when ironing at the correct temp, hence less wax to scrape off the top.

[XXX-er]

If I really want to use less wax the easiest thing is to just not wax but I do want good wax penetration ^^ so I look to use an iron speed that leaves a wet trail of wax following the iron by a few inches is just right

but as i posted before i do not want to burn or bubble a base which I have done with a clothes iron becuz of it having thewrong temp rang poor temp control

I think worth it measn maybe the end loser enjoys using it more

like the tool junkies we have here enjoy using their better tools